Model A Front Axle Camber 'Rough" Check Tool

H

H. L. Chauvin

Well-known member
FWIW: Model A Front Axle Camber "Rough" Check Tool & Trivia:


1. After inflating Model A tires to 35 psi, park vehicle on a level floor or park vehicle on a shimmed garage floor yielding bottoms of right wheel & left wheel level with one another.

2. Obtain (2) 3/4" PVC nipples and attach each to top and bottom of a 24" long level with rubber bans, with both nipples installed perpendicular to a vertically held 24" long level, e.g., level can now clear contacting front wheel hub caps.

3. Hold level vertically while carefully adjusting PVC nipple heights to accurately contact tops & bottoms of the rim on each steel front wheel.

4. Place protractor indicated below on the out-side of the vertical level to read degrees camber on each wheel.

5. "Empire" Magnetic POLYCAST Protractor; was $17.00, now $8.96 at Wal-Mart. (Manufacturer states accuracy within ( + ) 2 degrees ...... one I bought, (same Model & price at Home Depot) was "Right On" when reading protractor either from front to back, or moving around and reading same from back to front.

6. Or, another quick camber check: A Model A 19" wheel = 20.1875" diameter from top of rim to bottom of rim. Two (2) degrees negative camber equals .7045" or roughly 11/16" measured from bottom of rim to a vertical plumb line determined with the above mentioned PVC pipe nipples and level.

7. Equation: Sin 2 degrees = .0349 = Side Opposite over Hypotenuse = X divided by 20.1875". X = .0349 x 20.1875 = .7045, similar to 11/16" measured in paragraph 6. above.

8. Model A camber adjustments can be made by bending the front axle; another entirely different subject found under "Search".
 
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Two (2) degrees negative camber
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Is that the spec for a Model A?
When I searched a few months ago the only one I was able to find was a total of 1&13/16"

TIA, Ken
 
Hi Katy,

Model A Front Axle Specifications:

As late as 1934, the 1934 Motors Magazine was showing 1931 Model A Ford front axle specifications as being the same as that specified by Ford:

a. Two (2) degrees for camber; and,

b. One-sixteenth (1/16) inch for toe-in; and,

c. Seven (7) degrees inclination angle for king pins.
 
As the Dog would say, "You can do a RUFF camber check, by eyeball"!
Chief would say, "Close enough for all practical purposes & farm equipment"!
Bill W.
 
Do you really think folks in the old times really worried about CAMBER? Running wood roads, crossing creeks, running on rub board gravel roads & towing out houses, negotiating muddy roads & other chores, even pulling hay rakes. I'm blessed, that between my memories & Chiefs' memories, I span several eras. I really APPRECIATE the high points folks, but also appreciate the regular Model A guys that keep Model A fun alive, with stories & experiences, from the past. It's fun to go out & re-create those old experiences. Like runnin' a MUDDY road, or climbin' GOAT MOUNTAIN, or fording the MUDDY BOGGY RIVER!
Bill W.
 
Caster or camber specs should state either positive [+] or negative [-]. If that is not present then it is positive.
The few times that I've had to bend an old Ford straight axle [ or any other] I've set them positive. And, usually to 1/2 to 1.0 º positive.
 
katy said:
Is that the spec for a Model A?
When I searched a few months ago the only one I was able to find was a total of 1&13/16"

TIA, Ken
Click to expand...






Thats the spec in the Service Bulletins for the time. However the 1 & 13/16" would be positive.
Later specs once roads conditions started to improve, the camber spec decreased. [ similar to that was the decrease in toe spec to 1/32-1/16"]
 
Hi Katy,

A closer Camber Check in one's own garage can be more accurately verified with measurements as stated in paragraph 6. above, after insuring front wheels are on an accurately level surface.

The centerline dimensions of front wheels should be greater at tops of wheels to obtain Ford's recommended (2) degrees of positive camber.

Caution: If levels are dropped or roughly handled, the level vials can move out of their original positions; hence, it is best to verify level calibration, (even on a new level), first by holding the level on a level or plumb surface while reading the level's vial ............. next rotate this level 180 degrees to verify if this level still indicates that this surface is precisely level or plumb.

After setting up the level with PVC nipples, and allowing nipples to contact the upper and lower out-sides of steel rims, one can witness one's front axle existing positive or negative camber measurements.

Like with checking Model A ignition points, one can accurately use pieces of wood similarly as feeler gauges. Popsicle sticks work well to measure and verify how close one is to the 7045" or 11/16" (+) measurement for (2) degrees positive camber described in paragraph 7 above for 19" Model A wheels.

With a new front spring, new front wheel bearings, and new king pins in new bushings, here is what I found on my 1930 Town Sedan with 19" wheels:

Driver's side: 3/32" in lieu of .7045" or about 0.2661 degrees positive camber in lieu of 2 degrees positive camber. (1.73 degrees off of 2.0 degrees).

Passenger's side: 9/32" in lieu of .7045" or about .7984 degrees positive camber in lieu of 2 degrees negative camber. (1.295 degrees off of 2.0 degrees).

Thought of making a simple, "inexpensive" tool to correct front axle camber, (similar to vintage tools used for same), which can be used to correct camber with the front axle installed .... will try it soon.
 
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Hi Katy,

Might add, Model A Front Wheel Alignment usually appears interesting only at carefully select, certain times in one's Model A ownership life.

For example:

Devout interest is usually intensely generated when a pair of Goodyear Whitewall tires need to be replaced at over $430.00 a pair plus shipping.

In some marriages, it often takes a considerate and understanding mate to endure such a hole in one's savings account ...... or something else.
 
One of the quikest way to ruin a nice brand new set of front tires is having the toe in set incorrectly
 
According to several past, Ford-Barn Forum Model A Front Axle "Camber Comments", and as was recommended in the past in the mid 1930's by Ford:

1. Maximum Model A positive camber readings should not exceed 2 degrees.

2. Minimum Model A positive camber readings should not be less than 1/4 degree.

3. The difference between driver's (left) side camber readings and the passenger's (right) side camber readings, (or vice-versa), should not exceed or be more than 1/4 degree apart.

4. The Model A positive camber degree readings on the passenger's (right) side should never exceed the positive camber degree readings on the driver's (left) side.

As one can see from readings recorded in reply #9, (according to paragraphs (1) through (4) above), e.g., 0.2661 on the Driver's (Left) Side ............ and 0.7984 on the Passenger's (Right) side ......... these readings fail the camber recommendations listed in above paragraphs (2) and (4).

Caster on the above mentioned Model A axel was found to be OK, (15/16" measurement on floor), at 4.78 degrees.

It would be interesting to hear about other different readings found on other 82+ year old Model A axles.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
According to several past, Ford-Barn Forum Model A Front Axle "Camber Comments", and as was recommended in the past in the mid 1930's by Ford:


Caster on the above mentioned Model A axel was found to be OK, (15/16" measurement on floor), at 4.78 degrees.

It would be interesting to hear about other different readings found on other 82+ year old Model A axles.
Click to expand...


I'm not familiar with a caster measurement done on the floor, could you please elaborate?
 
Sir,

It is the Model A caster check that Mr. Les Andrews describes in his Volume I Model A Mechanics Handbook.

I prefer to provide (2) pieces of masking tape, taped to the garage floor below the front axle.

1. First place the tape on the floor, with each piece located below the front axle, and each placed at a distance of 5" towards the in-side of and below the Front Spring Perch bolts.

2. Get a metal straight edge about 14 inches long, place it firmly against the front upper and lower flanges of the leaning axle, (on the driver's side and passenger's side), and allow the leaning straight edge to touch the tape on floor ....... where it touches in these (2) R & L locations, mark the tape below with a sharp pencil.

3. With this same straight edge, with the straight edge's bottom edge in contact with the floor, hold it firmly at 90 degrees to the floor below, and allow it to touch the R & L protruding bottom flanges of the axle. When it touches both the floor and axle, (at 90 degrees to a level floor), make another mark on the tape below.

4. If the caster is at Ford's recommended (5) degrees, or 5.1 degrees, the distance between these (2) marks on the tape should be 1".

* In paragraph 3., a carpenter's "Speed Square" comes in handy to maintain the straight edge at 90 degrees to the floor.

Hope this helps.
 
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Camber setting. After all is said and done. Just look to post # 7.

Castor. Should be about 5º positive on an 'A'

Toe-in. Should be set to 1/32- 1/16"
 
SERIOUSLY, for a "RUFF" check, the Dog & I sit on the floor in front of my car & sight the front wheels, we'll notice any slight discrepancy. And, if they look quite straight, up & down, you're OK to go! Now CASTER is a different story & should be set very proper.
Tire mileage CAN be lengthened considerably by REGULAR ROTATION.
If you go pressing around on an axle, to get 1/2 degree or so change, you "MIGHT" end up worse than when you began.
Ted had chains, jack & stuff set up on his & ended up with an "S" shape, in the middle of his axle!
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
SERIOUSLY, for a "RUFF" check, the Dog & I sit on the floor in front of my car & sight the front wheels, we'll notice any slight discrepancy. And, if they look quite straight, up & down, you're OK to go! Now CASTER is a different story & should be set very proper.
Tire mileage CAN be lengthened considerably by REGULAR ROTATION.
If you go pressing around on an axle, to get 1/2 degree or so change, you "MIGHT" end up worse than when you began.
Ted had chains, jack & stuff set up on his & ended up with an "S" shape, in the middle of his axle!
Bill W.
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Yep, you can end up worse than what you started with. And many have.
I started bending them as a teenager. The early twin-I-beams had some issues. I've always enjoyed this work.
 
Hi Bill,

Never knew him, but from the final delicate axle "S" shaped axle work you describe above, sounds like Mr. Ted was "Ruff".
 
FWIW, Our '31 had excessive camber on the RH side, checking to find out why, first I noticed that the drum and the backing plate weren't parallel, further investigation revealed that the spindle was bent down, about 1/16" at the end compared to the inner bearing surface. Took a while to figure out how to straighten it, took a lot of strain w/a 8 ton hydraulic jack to do the job.
If I ever have to do one again I'll get a 3/4" NF rod coupling to put on the end of the spindle.
 
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