Purchase Advise: 1930 Model A Tudor

Look what showed up yesterday morning at 8AM sharp as promised!
Spent most of the day going over the car.
I'm almost 100% sure the body has never been off the frame.
Went over it with a weak magnet and it stuck everywhere.
Cleaned the fuel system (up to the carb).
Runs but I need to hold the choke.
Lights work (except the brake) so I do not know what the deal was talking about in their inspection report.
They told me they put in a battery. I assumed new, I'm now thinking otherwise.
Adjusted the e-brake but it still needs shoes.
Anyway, I really pleased!
 

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glad you are having fun!
sounds like your carb might need a little cleanout

just remember, on a day when you might be getting frustrated with your A
4100. crisp bills are here waiting to buy your A!
 
Is there any way to clean the carb while on the car?
I'd like to at least get it to idle so I can exit the car while it's running.
I'll rebuild the carb later on.
 
vespaholic said:
Is there any way to clean the carb while on the car?
I'd like to at least get it to idle so I can exit the car while it's running.
I'll rebuild the carb later on.
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Sometimes you can get lucky and pull some junk through by revving the engine then slapping your hand over the carb intake, and releasing it just before the engine dies. Do this a few times and see if it helps.

This was a common quick temporary fix for MoPar 2.2 and 2.5 engines in the 80's.
 
Vespa,

you might want to install a couple of filters-pencil at the tank and one right before the line goes into the carb
this will help you get some of the gunk out and not keep clogging the carb.
also might just want to exchange the carb for a rebuilt one if you have too much trouble with keeping the car running.................
 
Update if anyone is interested:
I worked on the car Sunday.
New plugs, fixed the + battery cable, cleaned electrical contacts, MMO in the cylinders (over night), blew a can of carb cleaner into it while it was running, changed the oil, etc…….
Runs fairly well.
I no longer need to hold the choke like before but it likes a 1/4 turn of the knob on the choke lever to run nicely.
Carb definitely needs to be adjusted so I'll read some threads here on how that's done and try that this weekend.
Then I took it out for a ride on Sunday.
Other than the tires being flat sided all went well.
I'm getting 1935 wheels and tires from Tony M. next week so that should take care of that issue.
I wanted to see how it would start in the cold weather so I tried to start it yesterday morning when it was 32 degrees outside.
Started on the second try, so I guess that's good!
One thing I learned on my drive it that this car is cramped!
I'm designing brackets to move the driver's seat back about 6" so I can fit comfortably.
I'll also be installing lap belts, front and rear, very soon.
More later……..
I hope everyone has a Happy Thanksgiving!
 
You did good, I would have bought it in a heartbeat! I have a '29 coupe and a '29 CCPU looking for a tudor so I can take rides with both grand kids.
 
Tudors are the best if you want extra leg room. Here is how far back my 29 tudor seat is with the 6" seat brackets.
 

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Consider jumping in and re-building the carburetor. It is not that hard of a thing to do. Get Les Andrews Volume #1 book to use as a guide. (If you own an A you should own this book)
Buy a one gallon can / carburetor cleaning kit from your local automotive store to use for soaking and cleaning it.
I would also get the pencil filter that sticks up into the tank. This will help with keeping the crud out of your re-built carburetor.
To paint your carburetor use the fuel proof spray can paint available from Hobby Town.
Just my two cents worth.
Enjoy the heck out of the car.
I'm going out to look at a 1930 Tudor tomorrow with a new club member. I hope that we get as lucky as you in finding him a good car to start with.
 
vespaholic said:
Update if anyone is interested:
I no longer need to hold the choke like before but it likes a 1/4 turn of the knob on the choke lever to run nicely.
Carb definitely needs to be adjusted so I'll read some threads here on how that's done and try that this weekend.

The choke rod controls the GAV (gas adj valve). I think if you search GAV, 1/4 turn isn't hateful. Think of it like being able to adjust your main jet while driving.
Click to expand...
 
Glad you got the car, vespaholic. I found a 1930 deluxe coupe last year the elderly previous owner had spent several years doing a nice off-frame body restoration (gave it up due to health and other issues) and the owner previous to him had rebuilt the engine very nicely. Only thing the car lacked was the entire front end, brakes, and steering to be rebuilt and the interior done. Spent a year doing that and just put it on the road in recent weeks. The purchase was a perfect "fit" for me as I like brakes, front end, ignition, carburetors, exhaust, top-end engine work, and interior repairs and finishing, but don't have the set up for paint and body and bottom-end engine work.

I guess everyone has something that fits what they can do and feel comfortable with and that determines how they'll look at a given potential purchase, just as you looked at yours. For example, I couldn't conceive of spending $2000 to have brakes done as I did all mine myself for far less in the cost of new parts and some long winter nights spent out in the garage playing with my new toy.

And don't be afraid of getting into your carburetor. Again, from my growing up on the farm and rebuilding dozens of old tractor and 1950's to 1960's era truck and car carburetors, the carburetors on these old cars are really simple. An inexpensive rebuild kit and some fun time taking the easily disassembled thing off the car and cleaning and putting it back together will reward you with years of good service not to speak of the satisfaction of having done it yourself. And the adjustments are so easy, just an idle mixture and idle speed screws you turn to make the engine idle smoothly at the speed you want is all there is. It's fun to actually get to adjust something just the way you want compared to today's fixed fuel injection systems all controlled out of some black box hidden under all that stuff under the hood.

Best of luck with your new project.
 
Thanks all!
I think I'm OK with how the motor is running for the time being.
I could find no air leaks around the carb or intake manifold.
I sprayed starter fluid, carb cleaner and finally tried a propane tank to look for air being sucked in and found nothing, which is good!
I have MMO in the gas and it seems to run a little better each time I run it.
I'll search the forum for GAV.
If a 1/4 turn is reasonable then I'm not going to screw around with it.
So, I'm turning my attention to safety related stuff:
This weekend I'm making the bracket to relocate the seat 6" back so I can fit.
Then I'll be measuring and ordering seat belts for the front and rear.
I'm also going to put it up on jack stands and pull all the wheels and tires in preparation for getting my new-to-me wheels and tires next week.
While the wheels are off I'm going to check out the brakes and see what my next steps are with them.
The car drives but in my book it's way more important that the car stops! : )
It actually stops fairly well right now so I'm interested in seeing what the dealer thought was wrong.
Maybe they were being overly cautious.
 
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