83 yr old Technology , the Front axle

I'm wondering how you can get 8 1/2° caster with a lowered front end (Posie spring) and the stock wishbone. You had mentioned the spring dropped the front end 2 1/2", that would tend to add some negative caster, was there anything else modified?
 
Is every last component in the steering system within spec, including the mesh between the worm and sector gears? If not, that's often the number 1 cause of front wheel shimmy.
 
Fordors said:
I'm wondering how you can get 8 1/2° caster with a lowered front end (Posie spring) and the stock wishbone. You had mentioned the spring dropped the front end 2 1/2", that would tend to add some negative caster, was there anything else modified?
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my angle finder on axle at kingpin,
Car on leveal ground
I have built several cars with staight axle ,
But none with stock Parts,
I have no problem with working toward a solution knowing I can achieve a smoth ride @ 70 mph with stock suspension with a lower spring

No on any other modification,,

32 Ford friction shocks

Iwas reading the service bulletin for the steering Box to check the mesh
 
Check your tie rod ends. are you running a panhard bar? All 4 bar front ends need a pan hard bar. I have a33 3wc hot rod. also check all shackles and bushings
 
rt34 said:
Check your tie rod ends. are you running a panhard bar? All 4 bar front ends need a pan hard bar. I have a33 3wc hot rod. also check all shackles and bushings
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? Not sure what 4 bar has to with this front end issue.
 
rt34 said:
Check your tie rod ends. are you running a panhard bar? All 4 bar front ends need a pan hard bar. I have a33 3wc hot rod. also check all shackles and bushings
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None 4bar ,
Stock 32 none split wishbone ,,,
I Replaced Spring & shackle bushings
 
Are you checking caster on a direct kingpin axis, or just on the flat spot on the axle ?
I have a tool for checking it properly.
 
I think its a curse of a solid axle.. Obviously there are technical things making it worse however in the early 2000's I was driving a 3.5T Mitsubishi truck daily , truck was new and put 150K + klms on it and on the freeway out of the blue one day it just started shaking violently , frightened the **** out of me, never happened again but geez! I put a steering damper on the pickup just recent just in case ; o )
 
Rob, the 33 does thousands of Ks,some with the caravan and some without,never a shimmy,
BUT my A,if the tyres are worn out or the steering is loose ,AND with and engine or two in the back coming down hill,hit a bump or the brakes and it gets a wobble, mind you the front wheels are not real true,that won't help.
My boy is over your way on the wheatstone gas job.
Lawrie
 
19ED30, just to clarify. You say 1932 friction shocks. Are they stock 32 shocks or friction shocks? If 32 shocks, do you know the condition of them? Have they been rebuilt? Are they topped off with fluid?
If friction shocks, have you tried tightening the adjustment to increase resistance?
What kingpins are fitted? With later ones you can plop the angle finder on the top of the pin.
Martin.
 
Start with the steering box (tight/no wear and adjusted CORRECTLY), pitman arm TIGHT to strg box, No play in drag link/tie rod ends, wishbone ball not out of round and/or replace the rubber ball IF so equipped, adj front wheel bearings, correct toe in/out, caster, camber.
Lose the wide wheels, correct tire pressure. JMO FWIW
Paul in CT
 
How old are the tires you are using? Old tires with cord separations can contribute to the problem. Get rid of the wide wheels and set caster at 4 to 6 degrees. Check each and every steering component for wear.
 
I've built many 100's of straight axle chassis, with bones, hairpins and 4 bars. Mostly with Vega steering box's. I tell the customer to set the caster from 5 to7 degrees with 1/8 toe with radials and 3/16 with bias tires. I have always assumed the camber was correct on a new axle? Always a panard with cross steer but not with stock style side steer. Over the years I get no negative feedback on death wobble from my customers. If everything is adjusted right and tight there should be no problem. The only car I've experienced death wobble with was a fresh 32 roadster with Schroeder side steer, dropped CE axle, hairpins, and Excelsior radials. Everything was new and I adjusted and adjusted and could not get it to stop. I leaned toward what many on here refer to as a crutch and installed a P&J front stabilizer. WaLa the car went straight with no death wobble at any speed. I am seeing more and more cars with some brand of stabilizer at shows the past couple of years. Right or wrong they do help in certain instances.
 
Talkwrench said:
Lawrie if he's on the Wheatstone project he's probably closer to you! : ) is he staying on the cruise liner?
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1931 flamingo said:
Start with the steering box (tight/no wear and adjusted CORRECTLY), pitman arm TIGHT to strg box, No play in drag link/tie rod ends, wishbone ball not out of round and/or replace the rubber ball IF so equipped, adj front wheel bearings, correct toe in/out, caster, camber.
Lose the wide wheels, correct tire pressure. JMO FWIW
Paul in CT
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I do not know of any Cruise liner ( ship being built in Va ,Mabe Navy , @ Norfolk , I am four hr noth

There is about 1/2 of play @ steering wheel
& about 1/8 - 1/4 Play When turning steering wheel ( back & forth) with no movement @ pitman arm ,

Shocks , look to be Original , oil drip , car was Restord in early 90s

Tires new off shelf , But have not check made date,

I know more to be checked , I drive it every night , (no rain )
It drives good , just feel like you are chasing the front end back & forth , &
I start to fell a shimmy 55mph up ( I see it in the hood also , but not violent
 
If it was death wobble at low speed you can dampen this down by putting a bit more friction on by tightening up the tie rod end screws ,but sector play is a factor ,Ted
 
I had a similar problem with a model A checked every thing talked to an old timer said to replace rubber ball on wish bone amazingly it cured the problem cheap fix something yu might try Cliff.
 
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