New studs?

J

JimKrejci

Junior Member
I have yet another request for your advice and expertise:

I am putting in new pistons/con rods in my '29 engine and am curious to know what would be the advantage in replacing all studs in the block? Thanks again for your help!
 
What I found is that all the new studs are straight and for the first time in years the head just slides on. Also, you can feel the "stretch" in the new studs. The have not lost their "spring" which contributes to better seal. You do need to torque a few times, but you should do that anyway. I got ARP studs, do not recall the part numbers. I think they have an on line catalog with sizes.
 
The ARP Studs I used are:
AP3.500-ISB (x12)
AP5.750-ISB (x2)

(No need to tell them you are working on a Model A, they don't know what that is!)
 
JimKrejci said:
I have yet another request for your advice and expertise:

I am putting in new pistons/con rods in my '29 engine and am curious to know what would be the advantage in replacing all studs in the block? Thanks again for your help!
Click to expand...

I was taught to always replace ALL fastenings when practicable in a rebuild.
 
I don't know how you do it but getting good quality studs is very important. Years ago you could have seen a grown man cry after I broke a new stud flush with the block on a newly rebuilt engine. After I picked myself up, I contacted a fellow club member who was able to remove the broken stud with a small cold chisel tapping on the perimeter of the stud, backing it out of the hole. After this horrible experience, I would suggest you take a good look at the existing studs. Make a judgement as to how corroded they are and how good are the threads. The old saying "don't fix it if it ain't broke" applies here. You can brake a stud just by trying to remove it and now you are into drilling it out and installing a helicoil. When you install the head and torquing it down, pay attention that the torque should be increasing as you tighten the nuts. Any reduction in the torque after turning the nut means you are stretching the stud and it will brake. STOP and install a new stud. That is my take, it is one of those jobs that I just hate! Ed
 
Ed in Maine said:
I don't know how you do it but getting good quality studs is very important. Years ago you could have seen a grown man cry after I broke a new stud flush with the block on a newly rebuilt engine. After I picked myself up, I contacted a fellow club member who was able to remove the broken stud with a small cold chisel tapping on the perimeter of the stud, backing it out of the hole. After this horrible experience, I would suggest you take a good look at the existing studs. Make a judgement as to how corroded they are and how good are the threads. The old saying "don't fix it if it ain't broke" applies here. You can brake a stud just by trying to remove it and now you are into drilling it out and installing a helicoil. When you install the head and torquing it down, pay attention that the torque should be increasing as you tighten the nuts. Any reduction in the torque after turning the nut means you are stretching the stud and it will brake. STOP and install a new stud. That is my take, it is one of those jobs that I just hate! Ed
Click to expand...
Have also used ARP studs in the last engines that I've worked on. I have been to their manufacturing facility. And yes, they are very familiar with the Model A.
 
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