Finally- But....!!

Karl

Karl

Well-known member
Finally after much drama and apparrent time wasting by the shop I have my phaeton back with its new reconditioned engine. This weekend I have put 60 miles of gentle running in driving on it but unfortunately there are a few problems that I still need help with

Firstly it is intermittently missing at idle (very disappointing as this was the very symptom that alerted us to the cracked block on the old engine) and it also seems to surge on downhill runs with the power off .

This weekend I have replaced the Carb,Distributor , Coil and High tension coil wire with those from my coupe which I know runs fine . I have checked all the plugs and regapped them at 38 thou. The miss still continues. I suspect an inlet manifold leak (I know its not the wiper vacuum line as the miss continued after I plugged this) as I can't seem to "richen out" the mixture screw -however spraying carb cleaner round the gasket seems to make no difference . I don't know what to try next - Tomorrow I intend to front up to the shop first thing and do some serious yelling but thought I would plumb the collective wisdom her first . Any ideas ?

Secondly The new motor has a vibration at 28 to 34 mph ( great just the speed I travel at mostly -ie town driving) This vibration is not bad but really makes the Sportslite buzz unless you hold onto it and drives me crazy! I wouldn't notice it without the sportslite .The old engine and my coupe both have balanced cranks although the other two model A's I've owned didn't None of them have had a noticable vibration like this- Is this normal ie have I just been lucky to date ? Will it settle? Anyone any bright ideas to stop the buzzing of the sports light? I would like to keep it if possible. Thanks Karl
 
Any strange noises? Have you done a compression (yes, I know it's new BUT) check? A valve NOT closing? Why the 38 thou gap? Just wondering...keep us posted please.
Paul in CT
 
Hi Karl, when I went to auto mech. in high school (back in the 60's) they taught us the first step in any tune up or engine diagnosis problem was always a warmed up engine compression test to eliminate sticking or burnt valves or broken rings even b-4 checking electrical or fuel delivery problems. For what it's worth! Good Luck, Joe
 
Sounds good idea Jeff.... I'll see if it works on my girlfriend?:eek::p sorry could not pass this one up.... guess it's getting late and should get some sleep.:rolleyes:
 
Karl said:
. . . The new motor has a vibration at 28 to 34 mph (great just the speed I travel at mostly -ie town driving) This vibration is not bad but really makes the Sportslite buzz unless you hold onto it and drives me crazy! I wouldn't notice it without the sportslite. The old engine and my coupe both have balanced cranks although the other two model A's I've owned didn't None of them have had a noticable vibration like this- Is this normal ie have I just been lucky to date ? Will it settle? Anyone any bright ideas to stop the buzzing of the sports light? I would like to keep it if possible. Thanks Karl
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Everything (car body, parts) has a certain harmonic frequency. It is likely the buzzing of the sportlite is a simple match of its harmonic frequency to the engine in that 28-34 mph range. The fix is simple. Change the frequency of the Sportlite! It's easy. I had an outside rear view mirror on a Chevy S10 that buzzed at 43-47 mph. I epoxied a piece of scrap brass, about 1 lb., inside the plastic shell. The harmonic frequency of the mirror assembly changed to 12 mph, a speed I do not stay at. You might experiment with adding mass inside the shell, behind the reflector. The dash rail in my 160B used to buzz 'till I glued a couple 3" pieces of 1/2" rod inside the lower edge.
 
I had some of the same symptoms when I got my new engine 16 months ago. Over time the problems went away one by one as the engine broke in. Now it runs the way
Henry intended for it too at all speeds. Give it some time-----and a healthy break in period.

Jack
 
1931 flamingo said:
Any strange noises? Have you done a compression (yes, I know it's new BUT) check? A valve NOT closing? Why the 38 thou gap? Just wondering...keep us posted please.
Paul in CT
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Some times slightly wider plug gaps gives smoother running at idle Was just searching in desperation for a cure.

Saw the shop this morning and they agree is not right ( always a good start) We connected a vacuum guage to the wiper line and got good vacuum levels but rapid swinging back and forth of the needle by about 5-6 psi . Their diagnosis was a tappet problem They may be right but as currently I have lent my copy of Les Andrews Shop testing book to a friend I can't confirm that this . They will adjust the tappets today and we will no doubt see -Karl
 
Jack '29 Sport Coupe said:
I had some of the same symptoms when I got my new engine 16 months ago. Over time the problems went away one by one as the engine broke in. Now it runs the way
Henry intended for it too at all speeds. Give it some time-----and a healthy break in period.

Jack
Click to expand...

Thanks Jack I think you are right It does seem a litttle better with more use. They have managed to stop the swing on the vacuum gauge with idle adjustment The tappets look ok They are performing a valve leak test on it this morning which will pick up valve problems and headgasket issues -If that is ok I guess I will just drive it and see what happens -Karl
 
you didn't mention motor mounts. If you have float a motor mounts you don't want to over tighten as they will transfer vibrations. If you are using the ford motor mounts be sure that the rubber insulators are installed.
 
pedhope said:
you didn't mention motor mounts. If you have float a motor mounts you don't want to over tighten as they will transfer vibrations. If you are using the ford motor mounts be sure that the rubber insulators are installed.
Click to expand...

Float A motor mounts- How tight is to tight and how loose is to loose??
 
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