Black Oxiding made simple...

The gas comes from the muriatic acid, not from the Parkerizing. This is the same acid you put in your swimming pool. No mask I know of will protect you from it.
I have been doing my own Parkerizing for well over 25 years. The gloves are not for your protection but to keep the oils from your skin off the clean parts. Skin oils affect how the Parkerizing of the part.
Roadster31. If you would look above your post you will see that I have already given instructions.
I only stated my opinion when I said, "Why take the time to do a Mickey Mouse job when it would take the same amount of time to do it correctly?". It was a not meant to demean anyone. Simply a statement.
 
My concern is the change in the molecular structure of the steel after the oil quenching. In the original post, the nuts and bolts were heated to almost cherry red. This is well above the transformation temperature, about 1340 F, of carbon steels. A look at an iron-iron carbide (Fe-Fe3C) phase diagram will show what I mean.

Ford was very proud of their metal alloys and metal quality. A lot of thought went into the selection of steel alloy and heat treatment on Ford cars. I would be very careful about heating any fastener on my Ford anywhere near a red color. The 450 F of the oil should be fine if the bolts and nuts are not heated.

Link to approximate steel temperature from color: http://www.muggyweld.com/color.html

Link to iron-iron carbide phase diagram: http://info.lu.farmingdale.edu/depts/met/met205/fe3cdiagram.html
 
Steve,

Have you considered using Eastwood's metal blackening kit which is much less mess than your hot oil process, and possibly safer. Price about 40 dollars and it may save a marriage! The liquids can be stored and reused.

I've used the 3 stage process for several projects and the finish is very attractive with a nice 'antique' look and feel. Eastwoods say it is semi-gloss but a typical bolt head (not polished smooth) looks matt and genuine.

I just don't believe that your boiling old oil process is true black oxidising.
 
I was told ( by someone in the steel business) that rapid quenching of a heated steel part in cold oil increased the hardness - because it added carbon to the steel - and that slow cooling anneals (softens) the steel.
 
Chris: although you are correct with the parkerizing procedure, where did you learn to spell "Gracious and Kind Debate?" A simple "Hey Steve", there is a better way, would have been more appropriate and NOT OFFENSIVE. Keep 'er going Steve. Jim Langley...
 
Jim/Alabam said:
Chris: although you are correct with the parkerizing procedure, where did you learn to spell "Gracious and Kind Debate?" A simple "Hey Steve", there is a better way, would have been more appropriate and NOT OFFENSIVE. Keep 'er going Steve. Jim Langley...
Click to expand...

I can verify that Chris Haynes outburst here is his standard procedure and he deserves the reputation he has earned.

Steve Plucker, I have always admired your contributions.
 
Try This, Warm the part to cherry red and dip it in Boric acid crystals. Roll it around till the part is totally coated with a glassy goo stuff and then heat and quench as usual. Once the part has cooled, wash it off in hot water. You're gonna like it!
Terry


roadster31 said:
Ouch, that's kinda harsh! Why don't you post a thread and tell everyone how to do it correctly rather than dragging poor Steve over the coals? He is only trying to help the restorer that doesn't have access to the proper chemicals. I don't think 450 deg. is enough to hurt the mild steele Henry used in the average bolt/nut. The finish Steve is using is durable; I harden o1 tool steele in diesel (used) oil for knives that are too big for the regular container of hardning oil. the black finish has to be sanded away -- it is tough! So, Steve, thank you for your post on faux oxide it is useful information.
Regards, E LaBrash
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TomW said:
I was told ( by someone in the steel business) that rapid quenching of a heated steel part in cold oil increased the hardness - because it added carbon to the steel - and that slow cooling anneals (softens) the steel.
Click to expand...


Sorry if I offended anybody. That wasn't my thought. I just speak from the hip.
 
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