1939 Ford Pickup

Randy1944

Randy1944

Senior Member
I just bought this one and it is not home yet. I want to order some items that I know will be needed. Help: Does my starter solendid need the push button? Also, should the generator have the cut out on it? Thanks
 
Last edited:
My 39 PU has pushbutton on solenoid, does not have gen cut-out but I think gen is not stock. I assume pushbutton is for when you have a failure elsewhere so "need" is dependent upon your objective, concours or driver. The return policy at the vendors I have dealt with is not great, they will not accept returns for any reason after a certain amount of time, 30 days comes to mind. It might be better to wait until you are ready to install before ordering. If you read the horror stories you may decide that a non-stock, 60 year old, factory Ford part is preferable to the aftermarket stuff, I certainly think so after my short flathead adventure. By the way, everyone here likes pictures, bunch of voyeurs I think. Good luck!
 
I will try to post a picture. As you can see it is up on blocks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0767.jpg
    IMG_0767.jpg
    57.3 KB · Views: 598
Randy1944 said:
I will try to post a picture. As you can see it is up on blocks.
Click to expand...

Dang! She's a beauty. The push button is nice for working under the hood and starting it or turning it over for instance a compression check. On my '38 I installed a solid state voltage regulator that a vendor sells stuffed into an original ford script generator cutout canister. That was a nice upgrade.
 
That picture has gotta be a fake, 'cuz I keep hearing it NEVER rains in California. Seriously, that is actually a pretty nice looking ol' pick-up. DD

243486
 
Wiring diagrams might help. Couldn't find a 39 pickup/truck diagram but attached are the 39 standard and deluxe diagrams. The standard is shown as still using the cutout and the deluxe the voltage regulator (3 brush generator vs. the 2 brush generator). There were a lot of changes going on in these years so it could be about anything. Another area is the fuse vs circuit breaker on the lighting system. The diagrams show a fuse on both, but I think some of the later year models had the CBs. Some of this can be related to upgrades along the way as well. When you get a chance post some photos of the engine/engine compartment, interior, etc.

Know you are excited about getting started, but you really should wait until you have to pickup and check it over. No way to tell what parts are on these things!!!!
 

Attachments

  • Flathead_Electrical_wiring1939std.jpg
    Flathead_Electrical_wiring1939std.jpg
    63.6 KB · Views: 20
  • Flathead_Electrical_wiring1939dlx.jpg
    Flathead_Electrical_wiring1939dlx.jpg
    98.6 KB · Views: 18
Thanks much for the wiring diagrams - they will be very handy. For now I am just gathering information and things such as sparkplugs and fan belt and trying to determine exactly what configuration it would have been new. I will not be putting a big engine in it and certainly no new paint job. The fact that it is close to original and not damaged to much, was what attracted me. I want to do what is necessary to maintain it and drive it. The paint will stay as will the motor(I hope). I would very much like it if someone very knowledgeable in what is correct for the period, would contact me and offer to help with detailed pictures and advice as to what to do and what not to do, in order to not hurt the value. Thanks everyone and I will get pictures as soon as I get the truck.
 
Randy1944 said:
Thanks much for the wiring diagrams - they will be very handy. For now I am just gathering information and things such as sparkplugs and fan belt and trying to determine exactly what configuration it would have been new. I will not be putting a big engine in it and certainly no new paint job. The fact that it is close to original and not damaged to much, was what attracted me. I want to do what is necessary to maintain it and drive it. The paint will stay as will the motor(I hope). I would very much like it if someone very knowledgeable in what is correct for the period, would contact me and offer to help with detailed pictures and advice as to what to do and what not to do, in order to not hurt the value. Thanks everyone and I will get pictures as soon as I get the truck.
Click to expand...
I recently converted my '39 p/u to 12 volts and have all the 6 volt stuff I removed. PM me if there is any 6 volt items you need. They are just taking up room in the shop.
Tim
 
Randy -

I wanted to say hello earlier this morning, but I was too busy working..........on my '39 Pickup!!

Welcome to the club. There are a lot more '39 owners now than there were when I was the newbie.

There's everything from daily's to fantastic frame-off's so we share info on newest & best ways or untouched as-builts.

Yours looks great. Just right to have a great looking driver without breaking the bank.

I also brought a solid non-runner back to life with success. So far.

I don't know much, but check out http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77657

You wanted a shopping list...

Hub Puller from Vintage Precision http://vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/index.html
Master cylinder
Wheel cylinders
Brake shoes
brake lines
brake line splitters, fittings, etc.
Ground straps
fuel line from tank
fire wall fuel line
fuel pump rebuild kit
engine/transmission mount bushing kits
Dizzy rebuild from Bubba
Coil rebuild from Skip

How are your water pumps?

whatever anybody else suggests....

Any Way - welcome to the club & what a great start!
 
Last edited:
Hey, Thanks for the great information. As I said, I don't yet have the truck, I have to get it shipped and "boy" that is a little scary. The truck is in Cal. and I am in east Tn. The bids range from $900.00 to $2500.00 and I am at a loss to pick the right one. Anyway, I will pick one and hope to get the truck delivered in one piece. When I get the truck I will be able to ask better questions and then I will be able to decide what my next steps will be. I do know I want to keep it as original as possible, so "51504bat" I will be in touch later. Thanks again for all of the information. Great timing: my wife is allowing me to go camping with her tomorrow for a week and I will go nuts thinking about the truck. Much more later.
 
WAIT!!! What the ??? Your wife ALLOWS you to go camping with her?? Man, I'm SO jealous. :eek:

BTW, good looking truck!
 
Finally made it back and found lots of info. in my mail. I got the title and found that the truck has 20,104 miles on the odometer. The previous owner bought it in 1960 for $132.00. Can't wait to get it home. It has some "warts" that need to be addressed.
 
Does anyone know where you can purchase new hood hinges for a 39 pick-up? See lots of hinges advertised, but none appear to have the tabs for the side shields needed for the pick-ups.
 
39mccoy said:
Does anyone know where you can purchase new hood hinges for a 39 pick-up? See lots of hinges advertised, but none appear to have the tabs for the side shields needed for the pick-ups.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately nobody makes them that I know of and I have been searching for over a year.

Fortunately for you I am at the point of reassembly and I need them so I plan to cut a set in the next week or so on our CNC plasma and brake the bends. They'll be 0.100" thick (12 ga CRS) which is slightly thicker than OEM but it's hard to get a hold of 13ga :D.

The 38's had a different hinge design than the 39's I think. One is basically a flat tab, the other needs to be bent in a L sort of shape to get to where I needs to land. I have 39 hinges on my 38.

Shoot me an email or message if you want a set.
 
Lucky you. Nice looker.

Some were during the 39year the generator with the Cu was replaced with a gen with a firewall mounted VR. Look for screw holes on the angled panel in front of the driver.

My hinge springs are gone. I use a Model A /eV-8 brake rod as a hood prop. It pivots off the radiator top and lays on a radiator support rod. Wiper hose on it keeps it from rattling.

I use the solenoid starter button some. Handy item.

I have Tyre Harris' wiring in my car and can send you his excellent wiring diagrams.

Do a safety check on your car and the drive it. Folks love the old barrel nose(horse collar) look.

I had to change all brakes lines and do a brake job. Easy job you can do your self. pre faired lines are available and the key connections are available. I bent my own lines. I thought I had original lines in the truck. Not so so I had to poke and dig for the proper holes for the filling to attach to.

these are fun trucks to own.
 
Hey Clem, I must admit that I have stumbled thru some problems with my truck. Each time I have requested help on here and someone has always come to my rescue. My truck had last ran in 2002 but I did get the motor to turn over by using crank nut behind the radiator. I had two major problems and they are now behind me. The steering wheel would not turn and the column drop key had been drilled out, so entire unit was froze. Patience helped with this one. Then removing the water pumps brought up one those darned bolts that was rusted and I could not get to it to remove it. Yep - it was one of the bolts that was back inside the water pump itself. Help from here advised me to use an extractor, and "bingo" the bolt was out. This darned cold weather is holding me up now.
I have really enjoyed tinkering with my truck and have found it has a voracious appetite for money.
Thanks again to everyone on here who has been so helpful.

ps, I am looking for a fan shroud for the radiator - Help!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top