studs

glenn in camino

Well-known member
A few questions re. installing new studs.
1 Should I run a tap into each hole to clean out the threads?
2 Should I put anything on the threads like anti sieze or blue locktite?
3 How high should the studs be above the block to look right after the head is torqued?
 
1. Don't run a tap into the threads to clean them, as it may cut new sloppy threads. I use a Dremel with a thin cutoff wheel, or a hacksaw to cut 4 slots into the end of an old bolt, then use that to clean out threads. This slotted bolt will resemble a self-tapping screw, only larger.

2. Some antiseize would be OK. I would also coat the sides of the studs, so the head will remove much easier the next time it needs to comes off.

3. Measure the thickness of the head, gasket, and nut, then figure for 1/2 to 1 thread sticking above the nut.

I always use the copper head gasket coated on both sides with copper-coat. Some sealer around the water holes in the head gasket will help to prevent coolant seeping out the edge of the head gasket.
 
I always use a "bottom" tap even if you are using "NEW" studs !!.. This also includes the stud holes in the head for the water pump, & the Manifolds.. Mater of fact, I do it on every bolt hole also, whats the difference ??... If the old studs & nuts are used run a dye on them also... Make sure you blow out holes when done & do use antiseize when installing..
 
After the threads are cleaned up dip the studs that go into water passages in some Moroso Ceramic Engine Seal (part number 35500). That will stop water from damaging or passing the threads.
 
1. Don't run a tap into the threads to clean them, as it may cut new sloppy threads. I use a Dremel with a thin cutoff wheel, or a hacksaw to cut 4 slots into the end of an old bolt, then use that to clean out threads. This slotted bolt will resemble a self-tapping screw, only larger.

2. Some antiseize would be OK. I would also coat the sides of the studs, so the head will remove much easier the next time it needs to comes off.

3. Measure the thickness of the head, gasket, and nut, then figure for 1/2 to 1 thread sticking above the nut.

I always use the copper head gasket coated on both sides with copper-coat. Some sealer around the water holes in the head gasket will help to prevent coolant seeping out the edge of the head gasket.

All good advice. One thing I might add if you don't mind concerning the use of copper-coat spray:

Apply just enough to cover and install the gasket and head will the coating is still sticky, very important. Otherwise you can create leaks with dry copper-coat especially if it's too thick and more so if there's a run or two.
 
Per Tom's post I made a thread cleaner out of an old, hardened bolt by cutting vertical slots in four sides with my dremmel. Then I ran a dye over it to make sure the threads were still ok. I ran out of time but it seems like it's going to work great. I'll try it out tomorrow. I think I'll use non sieze on the new studs. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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