Cheep Starter Button

About a year ago, I replaced the starter button in the old ford. Dad had drilled a hole in the dash an installed a big starter button. I have plugged the hole and went back to the original style button.

It's a cheep button that has failed on mw twice. I see it sparking and it's not the ground. I have taken it apart and "fixed" it, but it fails quickly afterwards. Also, sometimes it gets stuck on and the starter remains engaged - not good.

Where can I get a decent starter button - U.S.A Made?
 
What year are you working on here? 1941? The starter button should just be a ground to the starter solenoid and fairly low current, there shouldn't be any sparking at the button. If the button is failing and it is sparking I would guess it may be wired up strangely as in running a hot source through it as opposed to being a ground. Need more information on what is going on! Need a picture of the solenoid and how it is wired and some type of ID on it. All of this assumes a 6v pos ground setup!!!
 
It's a 1941 - still 6V and probably the original solenoid. The spark is very faint (6V low amps) and is definitely direct wired from the solenoid through the button to the ground. Problem is the button is flimsy.

I can post a picture if necessary.
 
About a year ago, I replaced the starter button in the old ford. Dad had drilled a hole in the dash an installed a big starter button. I have plugged the hole and went back to the original style button.

It's a cheep button that has failed on mw twice. I see it sparking and it's not the ground. I have taken it apart and "fixed" it, but it fails quickly afterwards. Also, sometimes it gets stuck on and the starter remains engaged - not good.

Where can I get a decent starter button - U.S.A Made?
The repop buttons are total poop. I look for OLD USA made. You can find them very often on eBay.
 
Bought a new shiny starter button from that outfit that every one complains about and it worked once. I replaced the new shiny button with the 76 year old button that all of the chrome has worn off and is now copper and haven't had a problem since.
 
No experience with the repo buttons, it's hard to believe they could screw up something that simple!!! Like most of the post above, I vote for a NOS button.
 
The problem I finally concluded with my stock starter button was, not only the poor design and construction, but the grounding through the body of the switch to the dashboard that was not always good. I got the NAPA ECH STB10 starter button that actually fits the hole perfectly, has two sockets for bullet connectors so the original wire end can be used for wires to the starter solenoid and ground and with a little paint fits and looks just like the original (other than missing the word "start" on it). It is much better made than the original and has served me well for 3½ years so far since installed. Stock style on left. NAPA on the right. Available here: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ry-Push-Button-Switch/_/R-ECHSTB10_0059379180
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If you are looking for original NOS & good used ones, Ray Helgers in RI has plenty. 401 635 4849. Ray is open Wed.-Fri.. 1/2 day Sat. Fred wilner, Southside Obsolete likely has same.
 
You might look at the metal around the hole. The switch grabs it ground by the springs that touch the edge of the hole. The edge should be clean and bright
 
I ordered a starter button from Dennis Carpenter, thinking that I would get a quality part. It is Chinese along with everything else that I received in that order, Correction, 1 item was made in India. The word "Start" on the starter button bezel looks like it was stamped 1 letter at a time by hand.
Mark
 
I also went through two starter buttons, I filed the hole to ensure a good ground. Today I went and bought a momentary switch you know with the big rubber cover. It fits in the hole fine and when I cut the boot off it had a nice brown push button. All my starter probems are gone fires right up. The original must be better, the repos were from two good suppliers and both were China made.
 
Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, you could.put a good looking original nonfunctional original in your dashboard and install a solid, USA made interval switch hidden in the wiring underneath.
 
The problem I finally concluded with my stock starter button was, not only the poor design and construction, but the grounding through the body of the switch to the dashboard that was not always good. I got the NAPA ECH STB10 starter button that actually fits the hole perfectly, has two sockets for bullet connectors so the original wire end can be used for wires to the starter solenoid and ground and with a little paint fits and looks just like the original (other than missing the word "start" on it). It is much better made than the original and has served me well for 3½ years so far since installed. Stock style on left. NAPA on the right. Available here: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ry-Push-Button-Switch/_/R-ECHSTB10_0059379180
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That looks like the dome light switches I bought from NAPA for my '52 F-7 door pillars. Mine are DJ3163.
 
I believe that is a '52 starter button. It is my understanding that the '52 had two wires to the button. The dome light switch would also work opposite to a starter button, energized when the button is out.
Mark
 
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I ordered the Napa ECH STB10 starter button for my '49 F4 as Old Henry showed in his earlier post. I went to pick it up today and it was boxed wrong. In the box was a ECH STB1 starter button for a '51 and earlier Ford truck. It was the grounding type button (single wire) with a black button and "START" stamped on the bezel. It was a lot better quality button than the one that I ordered from Dennis Carpenter. Just a heads up for anyone needing one.
Mark
 
Lots of good information. I took the advise posted in the web and bought one off eBay - "Made in USA". When I got it, it was made in China in a Dennis Carpenter box. It was identical to the one I have (had) in my car. So, I went back to eBay and bought what was posed as an original Ford part (I believe it is an original Ford part). Much better in quality - car starts first time with not problem.

Attached is a picture of the Ford part (left) and the button I wanted to replace. Notice the copper ground straps on the Ford part - very stiff. Also, notice there are no cheap tangs on Ford button. Finally, the China switches rely on the button bottoming out to make contact (in my case the switch would get stuck in the start position - not good). I know this, because I had to take mine apart several times when it no longer made contact. The Ford button makes contact when it is slight depressed - no need to push it all the way in and bottom out. I can't see a good way of opening the Ford part, but I don't think I will have too. Finally, I will have to paint the button tan or wait for a tan one to show up on eBay.

Get rid of your cheap switches.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Thought I would show the difference at the front. The Ford part looks to be much better quality. Zoom in and you can see the difference.
 

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