I'm thinking it's time for a new head gasket..

Wareagle

Wareagle

Member
Fired the old girl up today and noticed some seepage around the head. This could explain the water in the oil that I noticed on the last oil change. Compression readings today were all around 53 to 58. Think I should do the high compression head also. What is the best head to go with? I've read a lot here but can't decide on the correct head. Any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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Don't no mileage. Car set for 15 yrs. after restoration was started. Runs good but I get some moisture in the oil.
 
Short engine runs will leave moisture in the oil.

If you go for a high compression head, my choice would be the Snyder's 5.5 with a copper gasket and Copper Coat sprayed on both sides.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Short engine runs will leave moisture in the oil.

If you go for a high compression head, my choice would be the Snyder's 5.5 with a copper gasket and Copper Coat sprayed on both sides.
Click to expand...

What Tom said on all accounts...
Make sure you get the new head surfaced as there are reports that they come through twisted.
 
For a car that has been stored a long time, I first Torque the head & add a jar of the plain old original BARS-LEAKS.
Bill W.
 
Wareagle said:
Fired the old girl up today and noticed some seepage around the head. This could explain the water in the oil that I noticed on the last oil change. Compression readings today were all around 53 to 58. Think I should do the high compression head also. What is the best head to go with? I've read a lot here but can't decide on the correct head. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...



My engine has the same leakage as yours, but my car sat for 56 years, afraid to re-torque right now out of fear of breaking a bolt, it runs good so I decided to keep going until I take it off the road for the winter in a month or so, depending on weather.
Put about 350 miles on it since I got her running in Febuary, no water in the oil, which I have changed three times since, over kill? maybe, but after 56 years I run it for a 100 change, repeat. Next season will be a different story, but for now thats my method for a clean engine.
 
Thanks guys. I ordered the new head from Snyder's. I have tried to re-torque the head before when I drained the oil and found water. I thought if I had to replace the head gasket, I might as well replace the head at the same time. I will take it to a guy here that does race engines and have him check flatness.
 
burner31 said:
My engine has the same leakage as yours, but my car sat for 56 years, afraid to re-torque right now out of fear of breaking a bolt, it runs good so I decided to keep going until I take it off the road for the winter in a month or so, depending on weather.
Put about 350 miles on it since I got her running in Febuary, no water in the oil, which I have changed three times since, over kill? maybe, but after 56 years I run it for a 100 change, repeat. Next season will be a different story, but for now thats my method for a clean engine.
Click to expand...

Working on a club members car he managed to snap 3 head bolts. Toughest I have ever encountered. Normally we would use the washer trick but because he snapped the two back bolts we pulled the motor and took it to Pat's Machine shop in OKC. They did a great job of drilling out the broken studs and removing the remaining studs. They even managed to snap 2 of the remaining studs. We will be putting it back in next week. They can be removed if broken.
 
Wareagle said:
Thanks guys. I ordered the new head from Snyder's. I have tried to re-torque the head before when I drained the oil and found water. I thought if I had to replace the head gasket, I might as well replace the head at the same time. I will take it to a guy here that does race engines and have him check flatness.
Click to expand...

I know it's colder in Ohio than here in OKC so just be aware that in cold temps if the motor temp doesn't get up to temp you will pull your oil cap and it will look like chocolate milk. On a cold 30 degree day my car just would not get hot enough. You can block the radiator with cardboard to help the motor run hotter in cold temps or use a thermostat. I chose the in hose tstat and keeps the motor a constant 160-180.

You will certainly like the added performance with the Snyder head I love mine.
 
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