Float-A-Motor mounts

I have seen FAM's used with the stock front mount... The front mount does more of a balancing act then support of the motor...I bet many didn't want to drill out the frt crossmember and make a permanent disfigurement..
 
Just make sure you properly install the rear transmission mount. I think this is key to stopping the engine movement issues Brent refers to above.
 
30Tudor said:
Just make sure you properly install the rear transmission mount. I think this is key to stopping the engine movement issues Brent refers to above.
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I think my car may be missing this part. It has FAM mount at bellhousing and stock front mount.
 
RandyinUtah said:
I have been running FM with the stock front mount for years with no problems. I didn't know of any other way.
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racer32 said:
I think my car may be missing this part. It has FAM mount at bellhousing and stock front mount.
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I'm a bit confused (doesn't take much sometimes). My car had the 'rear FOM kit' when I bought it with the front stock mount.

Does the front FOM come as a separate kit or does it all come as one kit (Front and Rear)? I'm not planning on changing anything, just curious because so many have mentioned they only have the rear.

Oops sorry, should be FAM not FOM. A Ford O Matic is a ford Automajic trans from the 50's, usually hung on the back of a Y-Block...
 
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Y-Blockhead said:
I'm a bit confused (doesn't take much sometimes). My car had the 'rear FOM kit' when I bought it with the front stock mount.

Does the front FOM come as a separate kit or does it all come as one kit (Front and Rear)? I'm not planning on changing anything, just curious because so many have mentioned they only have the rear.
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The FAM 'kit' that I've familiar with and have installed, consists of the TWO rear engine mounts to replace the TWO stock rear mounts. There is no front such FAM, that I'm aware of and so I successfully for many years, have used the stock Ford A/B front mount with the rear mentioned mounts.

Now, what a lot of A/B owners, who use rear engine FAM mounts....are not aware of, is that you should / must install the mount (FAM ?) that goes under cross member and attaches to the rear of transmission/u joint cover (top two bolts,etc). There is a RUBBER snubber/bumper that keeps the engine more in alignment when using FAM system. Otherwise, engine WILL move /shift more than it should under torque.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Hardtimes,
There IS an available FRONT FAM set up. It's much like the '32 Model B.
Bill W.
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but you have to drill holes....and is it still a balancing act as if your using the stock rear mounts? or does the FAM create so much flex that the motor needs to rest on the ffront
 
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Front Mount:
 

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Can someone describe/picture this snubber and mount that goes on the crossmember at the u-joint?

I just put new rubber in the FAM on my car, but didn't see any way to use the rubber block that came in the kit.

The car has an original front mount with new springs and the FAM rear mount. This combo drives very nicely and is as quiet as one might expect an A to be.
 
With the rubber insulation that FAM's provide, your Model A won't vibrate like a THRESHING MACHINE !
IF you're running stock mounts, for an extra "THRILL", wear TIGHT SHORTS!
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Tom,
TRUST ME, the motor & power train DOES NOT move back & forth with Float-A-Motors. They only suppress the engine noises from getting into the frame/body. The name of them is mis-leading, they should have been called, "QUIET-A-MOTOR" Old tales abound & KEEP on being REPEATED! Some may confuse them with early Chrysler mounting systems, called, "FLOATING POWER." I've heard NIEVE persons that even think your fan could go into the radiator during a sudden stop:eek:----------------HOGWASH!!
Front & rear FAMS were the GREATEST thing I ever did to Minerva, I'd put them on Vermin, except, I'M TOO TIRED!:mad: At 60-65, Minerva just went HMMMMMN, so smooth & quiet, you wouldn't believe it. With stock mounting, she sounded like you were TEARING up the engine, after 45MPH! You're familiar with those sounds & that's why many don't drive over that speed.
Bill W.
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Bill, with the F-A M's that we used here, found everything as you said.

If I had an A now, it would F-A-M's in.

But there is adjustment that has to be done.

I would say if you have a drive train moving, something needs to be fixed.

If one does that, they all should. It could just be the ones sold to some people. :)

Herm.
 
I have and like the FAM, but found like Henry1953, they did allow forward movement a little after some hard acceleration on hillclimbs and blocked access to the front pan bolts under the front cross member. I fabricated some "traction bars" for the speedster to secure the rear axle (and the rest of the drive train) in place and no more problem. FAM was not a problem with stock engine and "normal" A driving.
However, with the B trans you should fabricate some mounts for the rear of the trans to the center cross member for support. This can be done and use rubber donuts from the FAM replacement kits sold by the usual suppliers. (I did this for the '39 trans on the speedster, the 32 trans has a different rear retainer but the issue is the same.) But Hardtimes, Jim Brierely and others know much more about B mounting than I do.
For the front, I used CarlG's mount, comment #51, but cut it in two in the center and trimmed it for two separate mounts.
 
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I have B engine and trans in my 31 A coupe, used the B front mount that spreads out, drill the cross member and used rubber donuts, used the aluminum FM mount that bolts to the frame for the bell housing with the big donuts but had the make the bracket that bolts to the bell housing that sets on the donuts because the housing bolt holes set back about 3/4in. out of 1/4in. stock. Used 41-48 trans gears in B trans, 3:54 rear gears, 40 Ford brakes, Put many miles on in the last 14years. Of course it don't drive like an A, shifts smooth and stops smooth and goes fast. Walt
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
With FRONT FAM's, be SURE to enlarge the crossmember holes, from below, with a UNI-BIT, otherwise, the engine vibrations will transmit from the mounting bar to the crossmember, through the bolt & it would vibrate WORSE than stock! The sellers should mention this, in their installation instructions.
I had to install 2 heavy flat washers under the engine bar, to align the crank bearing, to the crank nut. The Dog calls me a "CRANK NUT"---Whut duz he mean??????--I'm nice to him??
Bill W.
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Thanks Bill, my old ride needs some of these. The great deal I got on my A reassures me that anything I do now can only do good. Until the crank falls out from the side or the rear end locks up, I will be driving it like a bucket of bolts, but not on the interstate! There are few Roads between you and I but I will drive this A across the USA one day. Just got to get rid of that vibration. I was thinking of disconnecting my 4 blade fan, I wonder how many vibrations come from there?
 
So is there any way to gauge how tight the FAM doughnuts should be? I can feel the engine vibrate or pulse within the mount. Should the mount just be tight enough to stop the "pulsing" and still not compress the new rubber doughnuts? Also, the bolts that come with the mounts are smaller diameter than the doughnut holes. Would it make sense to upsize the bolts to fit the holes snugly to give a firmer fit and minimize engine fore & aft movement?
 
Okay, I am totally confused. I am going to invite Bill Williamson and his son Mitch to my shop for a work session, LOT's of beer and maybe some pretzels and get them to an agreement on this issue.

Ted
 
IF you want your car SMOOTH & QUIET, install front & rear FAMs & a flexible exhaust hanger.
IF you don't CARE, DON'T READ ALL THIS STUFF!
Bill Quiet
 
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