Clutch pedal went to floor

Mcb12

Mcb12

Member
I was driving to work today and the clutch pedal just went to the floor. I was able to stop and didn't see any obvious linkage breaks. Restarted in gear and made it to work. What should I look for first?
 
clean underwear! (sorry for that, but how could I resist the set up)

I am not the best person to ask, but will take a swing at it. I would probably start with inspecting the clutch release shaft arm. It is my understanding that certain parts on 28/29s were modified over time to accommodate the "newer" clutch release shafts. One of the modifications could result in a weak shaft arm that would eventually brake and could cause the problem you described. I would also remove the inspection cover and see if the parts within are still operational. Take a peek at the attached as it may help. If I am wrong in my recommendation, I am hopeful someone more knowledgeable steps in and correct me.
 

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I had multiple problems. First a clutch finger broke and would not disengage the clutch. Then the clutch adj. arm broke. Those are my two guesses.

Mike
 
As I looked under the car this morning the first thing I noticed was that the clutch operating arm was cracked, but it couldn't be that simple, the arm still moves the shaft fine. So I guess I will have to remove transmission and bell housing. That is A little intimidating to me. I want to learn, but will really miss driving for a while
 
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I don't know how the shaft can rotate with a crack like that. It may move the shaft slightly but not rotate it enough to move the throw out bearing, I would replace the clutch arm and see how things go from there.
 
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still learning how to upload pictures.
 
Start simple..replace the clutch arm...

I also had one that was cracked and had been brazed...it happens...
 
Mcb12 said:
As I looked under the car this morning the first thing I noticed was that the clutch operating arm was cracked, but it couldn't be that simple, the arm still moves the shaft fine. So I guess I will have to remove transmission and bell housing. That is A little intimidating to me. I want to learn, but will really miss driving for a while
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I know the previous guys implied this but it was not stated. You will be able to replace the cracked arm without removing the bellhousing. It is a little tight getting under and at the shaft but taking the bellhousing out is much more work than necessary.
Good Day!
 
Had the same happen to me. Clutch went to the floor. I shut off the engine, put it in second and drove home. (Altho stop signs were a challenge).

Anyway, got home, drove out the pin, ordered a new clutch arm (get a new pin also) and I'm off for the next 'adventure'. The new welded arms are a little longer so they make depressing the clutch pedal easier.

As stated, no need to remove trans.

Seems to be a common thing...
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Looks like someone needs to make a sell a simple repair clamp for the arm, so a person can get home from a trip if the arm cracks.
 
Thank you all for the help, this is what is great about this forum, The arm is cracked on both sides so I ordered a new one, I did turn the shaft by hand and sure enough, it was not turning enough with the cracked arm. Should be an easy repair, I am checking with a friend who may know someone with a spare so I can be running this weekend.
 
Just wanted to mention, as I left work last night at around 11pm there was a small crowd of co=workers snickering at the "Old car broke down" . When I started the car in second gear and drove out of the parking lot with no trouble they changed their attitude about Old and simple being worse than new and complex. I even turned around and made a pass through and asked if anyone needed a tow of their new car.
 
Mcb12 said:
Thank you all for the help, this is what is great about this forum, The arm is cracked on both sides so I ordered a new one, I did turn the shaft by hand and sure enough, it was not turning enough with the cracked arm. Should be an easy repair, I am checking with a friend who may know someone with a spare so I can be running this weekend.
Click to expand...

You could weld or braze the old one...a temporary fix, though this one was on the truck since we bought it in 1962..
 

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FWIW: Just a simple tip on how anyone can cause a clutch arm to break every time one is installed?

A. A metal stress analysis will show that the spring on the throw-out bearing does not offer enough tension resistance to break a clutch arm even if the clutch arm is depressed 300,000 times a day.

B. However, a sure way to break a clutch arm on every installation is to wedge the clutch pin hole opening with a tapered pin that is driven in too deeply, thus overstressing the smaller amount of metal on both sides of the pin hole ......... after time, this small cross sectional area of metal becomes overstressed, fatigued, & just breaks.

C. Just remember that this metal is not that flexible ...... and wedges are very powerful when driven.


Hope this helps someone installing a Model A clutch arm in the future.
 
I found the best way to line up the clutch adjusting rod with the new clutch shaft arm is to place a bottle jack underneath the new clutch shaft arm. Raise the jack to put the new clutch shaft arm into position for the clevis pin. Hope this helps.
 
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