Plastic window in sand blaster..

L

Larry Jenkins

BANNED
The main window in my sand blaster, which is plastic, is getting a little "foggy" on the inside from the glass beads.

Anyone know of a method to clean the plastic so it's a little clearer?

Thank you!

Larry
 
Replace the window, then buy a roll of thin plastic film to use as a protector. Replace the film each time it gets cloudy from blasting. I bought a roll at spring Carlisle just for that reason.
 
I bought my beadblasting cabinet form TP Tools in Canfield, Ohio. It is very well made, unlike the one I checked out at Harbor Freight. It cost more, but in my opinion, it is worth it and it is US made. It came with plastic protective film attached to the inside of the "glass" window. It has a peel-off adhesive tape around the edges that allow it to be "stuck" to the window. I have replaced the protective plastic film several times - whenever it gets to where I can's see what I am blasting very well. The link below is to the protective plastic film. I don't know if you can restore the "blasted" plastic - you might need to replace it and start using the protective plastic film.
Rusty Nelson

http://www.tptools.com/LensesandWindow-Components.html
 
Our blast cabinet from HF has glass window and the protective film. I replaced the nuts that hold the screws for the window door with pop rivet threaded inserts so you can easily remove to replace the film. We bought a roll of the clear heavy type material like used for storm windows. Now its an easy job to replace when gets cloudy. Tried the replacement stuff with the two sided tape, never could get it to stick all the way around and the dust would blow between the glass and film plus it was hard to get to the far edge to install.
 
I made the mistake of buying a HF blast cabinet. After I replaced the no-good gun with a TP gun, added a TP light, replaced the flimsy gloves with TP gloves, and caulked the joints, I might as well have bought a TP cabinet in the first place.
 
Go onto the McMaster Carr web site and punch in these numbers:
3283K53 10 piece clear acetate liners for the windows @ $8.35 per set
3283K13 20 piece clear acetate liners for the windows @ $15.50 per set

These work quite well and are easy to wipe off with a damp cloth. The biggest problem with these is that they collect static electricity and then the finest dust collects on the inside of the liner; you need to attach a small length of chain to the cabinet and then lay it on the floor to solve this. 3 or 4 pieces of masking tape will attach this to your glass panel and you will probably never change it again for the amount of blasting that you will do.
 
The plastic window can be buffed out to remove small scratches.
The amount of time it takes to do using a buffing pad on a drill to do this you can install a new piece of plexiglass. Always use a plastic sheet on the window for future removal.
 
Lose the plastic.
I replaced the plastic with a single sheet of glass cut to fit. I figured it would just be disposable but so far it is still clear and has lasted about 3 times longer thzn any of the plastic sheets. Cost was $4 at Ace.

Have done the same for the light and it is fantastic to be able to see clearly what i am working on.
 
My Dayton cabinet came with a double thickness glass lens. When it needed to be replaced I used 2 layers of single thickness glass because only the inside glass needs to be replaced and single thickness is cheaper. I get 4 or 5 pieces cut when I go to the hardware store, and this will last me several years.

Always try to blast so the media doesn't bounce off the glass.

4 years ago I replaced my regular bulb with the small curly fluorescent bulb and have not had to replace it yet. The old bulbs were shot as soon as any sand hit the glass.
 
As others have said, some modifications to the HF cabinet can make a very fine cabinet. TP actually sells a pickup tube to improve the performance of the media pickup in the HF cabinet. It prevents any surging. I also modified the window mounting so you can easily remove the window to replace the plastic protective sheet. I always use scotch tape around the plastic edges to prevent any media from getting between the plastic and glass. I leave a paint brush in the cabinet to dust off the inside of the plastic surface when it gets dusty. Run an auxiliary airline into the cabinet with an air nozzle on it to blow media away from the door before opening the door, keeps media in the cabinet when opening the door after blasting. These changes did not take a lot of time, and were very inexpensive. I feel I ended up with a cabinet as good as the expensive ones for a lot less cost. HF sells a vey nice media reclaimer that was inexpensive as well. Replacing the rocker power switches with old toggle switches is a must also. Seems like a lot of trouble but it really wasn't, and I enjoy the creative efforts to make things better. You can save a lot of money, when what you have is mostly time.
 
I have a barrel Blaster that comes with a plexiglass window and some replaceable soft sheet plastic shields that go under the plexiglass. I replace the shield when it gets cloudy.
 
Jim Brierly, or others..

Is there a special type of Saran wrap that clings better then others?

What is the name of the window film? Does it stick well to the plastic window?

TIA!

Larry
 
I would think that glass being harder than plastic, would erode more quickly. My cabinet has very dim lighting. The socket limits the wattage of the bulb, but I don't remembet what that is. I think I will go with the curley flourescent like Tom says. If that doesn't do it, I will cut a hole in the top and install an external light that shines down into the chamber. The thing works great but I can't see what I am doing.
 
Larry Jenkins said:
Jim Brierly, or others..

Is there a special type of Saran wrap that clings better then others?

What is the name of the window film? Does it stick well to the plastic window?

TIA!

Larry
Click to expand...

Use double stick tape. And the film goes on the INSIDE of the window, not outside like someone I know.
 
I have had a TP cabinet for many years and another quick tip my 13 year old grandson came up with, a pocket magnet to hold small items to make the left glove last longer (just what I was thinking!!) Works really great just keep it stuck to the inside until needed.
 
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