intro and lowering my 4` coupe

19Fordy said:
I have never removed spring leafs so I can't provide an answer to that question. I would start by reversing the main spring leaf. It may "settle" even lower than 1 inch after a while. If you do decide to use a dropped axle be very sure than your tires will have adequate fender clearance when turning.Before you install a dropped axle speak with a company that actually drops axles and ask tons of questions. The folks on HAMB speak highly of Sid. Look here:
http://royboyproductions.com/2013/11/19/shop-visit-nostalgia-sids-dropped-axles/
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SID and Okie Joe both provide excellent dropped axles (the are two separate shops, but work together, each doing different years of axles). I have an Okie Joe axle in my current 33 5w. I have visited with both of them, great to work with.
 
Just out of curiosity? what rear axle do you have? A heavy axle in the rear is the major cause of a harsh ride and there's very little you can do about it.
 
Hope this isn't too far off the subject of the post but thought this may be of interest to you. I bought these "lowering shackles" on ebay (I think) and I installed them on a 40' sedan that I had at the time. They really lowered the front end but they destroyed the stability of the car. I removed these after the first test drive. The concept with these is, they are (like about twice) the length of a stock shackle and when installed, they take the tension out of the spring which results in the front end dropping about 4". I found that these are a really bad idea and I will not resell these to anyone.
 
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Those long shackles create a cradle for the chassis to swing in. A panhard bar is necessary to keep the axle centered to the spring and chassis.
 
Like 40cpe said, longer shackles will only work with pan bars (or something equlivent) to locate the axles. Early Ford depended on the tension in the spring and the shackle geometry. Later Fords went to a setup with little to no static tension in the spring and used pan bars. Have to keep the type of setup in mind when making modifications.
 
I'll pass on the shackles for now I'll do the reverse eye spring from speedway. Thanks to everyone for all the input.
 
39topless said:
Hope this isn't too far off the subject of the post but thought this may be of interest to you. I bought these "lowering shackles" on ebay (I think) and I installed them on a 40' sedan that I had at the time. They really lowered the front end but they destroyed the stability of the car. I removed these after the first test drive. The concept with these is, they are (like about twice) the length of a stock shackle and when installed, they take the tension out of the spring which results in the front end dropping about 4". I found that these are a really bad idea and I will not resell these to anyone.
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My ride was rough until I changed back to the original length shackles from short shackles. Seemed to let front suspension flex better. With a stock sway bar I don't have any problem with stability. If you don't have a front sway bar I recommend you try one. Makes all the difference in the world. Had no luck with sway bar and panhard bar. '41 sway bar operates sort with a panhard bar effect and with both they tended to operate against each other
 
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39topless said:
Hope this isn't too far off the subject of the post but thought this may be of interest to you. I bought these "lowering shackles" on ebay (I think) and I installed them on a 40' sedan that I had at the time. They really lowered the front end but they destroyed the stability of the car. I removed these after the first test drive. The concept with these is, they are (like about twice) the length of a stock shackle and when installed, they take the tension out of the spring which results in the front end dropping about 4". I found that these are a really bad idea and I will not resell these to anyone.
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1980gold said:
I'll pass on the shackles for now I'll do the reverse eye spring from speedway. Thanks to everyone for all the input.
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I found a reversed eye '40 ford main will fit a '41 spring pack. Found mine at Chassis Engineering
 
Yep, Atlas Spring and Axle, they even advertise on the radio:

"If it's a spring, give us a ring, Atlas Spring"!!

4500 West Irving Street
Wichita, KS 67209-2693
(316) 943-2386
Monday-Friday: 7:30 - 5:30

I have been using them for years, really nice guy runs the spring shop. If you are having one made from scratch be sure you know the dimensions. They can reverse the eyes on your existing spring or make a new one. It would be best to at least take in your existing spring for a pattern for the curvature and eye to eye dimension.
 
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So I took the car out on the highway yesterday It does fine up till about 50 and then starts to wanna go to the left. I know I need shocks all around in a bad way. I was gonna check the king pins for wobble on my next day off. Also does anyone know if my tie rod ends are 11/16 or 5/8" threads. theyre cheap enough and I figure it could only help to replace them. thanks
 
1980gold said:
So I took the car out on the highway yesterday It does fine up till about 50 and then starts to wanna go to the left. I know I need shocks all around in a bad way. I was gonna check the king pins for wobble on my next day off. Also does anyone know if my tie rod ends are 11/16 or 5/8" threads. theyre cheap enough and I figure it could only help to replace them. thanks
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How are the tires and wheels? Those items really start to make a difference at 50 MPH. Getting those balanced would be cheap and a really good idea. Hope someone else can help with the tie-rod question.
 
39topless said:
How are the tires and wheels? Those items really start to make a difference at 50 MPH. Getting those balanced would be cheap and a really good idea. Hope someone else can help with the tie-rod question.
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I'm sure they're 11/16 R & L
 
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