Radiator question

GOW

GOW

Senior Member
i'm about to put a new leakless water pump on my 29. the instructions say if using a new style radiator with more tubes/fins then i've got to cut down the impeller fins. i plan on getting my stock 29 radiator rebuilt with the over flow tube moved to the neck like latter radiators and use a catch can also i like to have the radiator set up to take some pressure around 5 lbs. with a pressure cap.......anyone see any problems with my set-up? thanks
 
The overflow tube is in the neck on original radiators, so I don't understand the statement " i plan on getting my stock 29 radiator rebuilt with the over flow tube moved to the neck like latter radiators ".

Also I don't understand the need to cut down the blades if the new radiator has more tubes? I'm using my original 1928 round tube radiator and original water pump and haven't lost a drop of coolant and it cools fine now that I cleaned it out with liquid grease remover and washing soda. I use a 160* thermostat for quicker warmup.
 
i should have said to the out side like latter radiators.....i really don't have any knowledge of stock a radiators.....i've only built hot rods where bigger was aways better and ran 13-15# caps.

the instructions talk about "to much flow" with a bigger (tubes) radiator. which i understand and have seen...like running with out a thermostat.
 
Being that you built Hot Rods, use the Trial and Error effect. Thats what I used to do.
All Model A radiators I know of have a Overflow tube in them to the out side rear. Try the pump with out modifying it, you would only be using Water at no cost. The system is originally built for 0 pressure, you could cut the overflow tube for a catch bottle.

Where do you live in Up-State NY? I'm up-state North East on Lake Champlain.
 
GOW,

I'm running a new Brassworks heavy-duty 10 fin-per-inch radiator and leakless pump on my '28, along with a 160* upper-hose themostat.

I have the radiator filled to the top of the baffle plate, and have run it hard and run it gentle; run it with some cardboard in front of the radiator to get the temp up to 180*, and run it hard that way.

Haven't pushed any water out the overflow tube.

Try the water pump as-is first, taking care to follow the instructions for initial fitting: hold in place w/o a gasket and make sure the impeller turns freely... I had to grind a little stock off the back edge of each impeller fin where it was rubbing against the head.

Don't see any reason to run as a pressurized system unless your planning on running a 180* stat....
 
GOW said:
i'm about to put a new leakless water pump on my 29. the instructions say if using a new style radiator with more tubes/fins then i've got to cut down the impeller fins. i plan on getting my stock 29 radiator rebuilt with the over flow tube moved to the neck like latter radiators and use a catch can also i like to have the radiator set up to take some pressure around 5 lbs. with a pressure cap.......anyone see any problems with my set-up? thanks
Click to expand...

You don't need a pressure cap to run a closed system, nor do you need to move the overflow tube to the neck as required for those caps. You just need a cap and pump shaft seal that don't leak air, and use the existing internal overflow to the bottom of the overflow reservoir. You may have to replace the existing paper cap gasket with a rubber one. The coolant level in my catch tank goes up/down a few inches but I can run all year without adding or losing a drop. This is a closed NON pressurized system with no radiator mods. Leave the pump impeller alone. Cutting it down is a band-aid fix for some other problem, and will likely cause poor coolant circulation at idle, causing a temperature spike when you stop after a hard run. I have two 1/8" vent holes in a 160 thermo, clamped to stay at the bottom of the hose.
Overflow-1.jpg
 
Hey Mike, Thats a nice looking wiring harness you have there. Make it your self? I especially like the fuse sockets with the friction tape.
 
Whilst we're mentioning water pumps.. On a couple of new ones I've purchased the outer dimension is too large and fouls the hub of the fan. All that's needed is a little filinmg/grinding on the casting. Checking everything and assembling it on the work bench prior to fitting in the engine bay saves a lot of hassle.
 
thanks for all the help guys...i'm all set now.
jazzjr. i live near troy.....been to crown point many times

don't know what jazzjr refers to but went to troy music hall a couple of weeks ago to see/hear the 16 year old girl jazz singer from canada....she was great.
 
MrTube said:
Hey Mike, Thats a nice looking wiring harness you have there. Make it your self? I especially like the fuse sockets with the friction tape.
Click to expand...

Off-topic in this thread, but yes. Automotive electronics and wiring are second-nature to me. The fuses illuminate if blown. Link

I wanted to show how simple the overflow tank connection was. I should have cropped more off of the picture.
 
johnbuckley said:
Whilst we're mentioning water pumps.. On a couple of new ones I've purchased the outer dimension is too large and fouls the hub of the fan. All that's needed is a little filinmg/grinding on the casting. Checking everything and assembling it on the work bench prior to fitting in the engine bay saves a lot of hassle.
Click to expand...


I had this same problem on Saturday. Pushed fan on the water pump, gave a few taps with a mallet and it started grabbing. There was a sharp piece sticking off of the casting on the bottom of the water pump. I hit it with a Dremel and it was good to go.

I always find its good to test things as I assemble, make sure each piece works before adding the next.
 
MikeK: would like to see more detail on your "recovery system. Where does the 2nd small hose go, the one that seems to run to rear parallel to frame? Thanks in advance.
Paul in CT
 
1931 flamingo said:
MikeK: would like to see more detail on your "recovery system. Where does the 2nd small hose go, the one that seems to run to rear parallel to frame? Thanks in advance.
Paul in CT
Click to expand...

The overflow tank Link has two tubes. Internally, only one extends up to the top. That one is just an air vent and the hose I have going back just extends that vent away from the engine compartment. The other connection, which terminates internally near the bottom of the can, goes to the existing radiator overflow tube. I did have a few issues. The radiator tube is 5/16 and the overflow tube is 3/16. You need that connecting hose air tight at both connections. I also have a flip cap with a motometer, and the leaky thing needed major fiddling to get everything to seal air tight so vacuum during cool-down would draw the coolant (50/50 Sierra lo-tox) back into the radiator. I chose the tank shown in the link because I liked the bayonet cap with the big silicone washer on it. Other similar designs have a knurled screw on cap that is inconvienient to open, especially hot. I used a 15" tank, the 12" version would have been plenty. The coolant moves up/down about 3".
 
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