Shackle Bolt Removal Question

1938 Coupe

1938 Coupe

Senior Member
I don't want to replace the whole bushing from the spring just remove the bolts that hold the shackle into the bushing. How do I go about that without destroying the bushing itself? Thanks
 
1938 Coupe said:
I don't want to replace the whole bushing from the spring just remove the bolts that hold the shackle into the bushing. How do I go about that without destroying the bushing itself? Thanks
Click to expand...

Can you clarify your objective and what you are working on, what type of bushings and bolts you have? Maybe a photo? I don't mean to be dull but from your question I am uncertain if you are trying to remove the fastener, the shackle, the bushing or the spring.
If you have the 3 piece bushing with the rubber sleeve and integral double threaded center stud, I am with Lawson, it doesn't look good.
The Ford catalog shows bushings that appear to have removeable bolts, might have a chance with those.

I am currently replacing the forward bushings on my 39PU with solid alum and replaced the rears with oem style 3 piece bushings a couple months ago. I disliked the oems enough to try to avoid doing that ever again. With the pain still fresh I'd like to be able to spare you some misery.
 
SofaKing said:
Can you clarify your objective and what you are working on, what type of bushings and bolts you have? Maybe a photo? I don't mean to be dull but from your question I am uncertain if you are trying to remove the fastener, the shackle, the bushing or the spring.
If you have the 3 piece bushing with the rubber sleeve and integral double threaded center stud, I am with Lawson, it doesn't look good.
The Ford catalog shows bushings that appear to have removeable bolts, might have a chance with those.

I am currently replacing the forward bushings on my 39PU with solid alum and replaced the rears with oem style 3 piece bushings a couple months ago. I disliked the oems enough to try to avoid doing that ever again. With the pain still fresh I'd like to be able to spare you some misery.
Click to expand...

Just out of interest, why not use the commonly available aftermarket like Ford 38v8 mentioned? They have two opposing top hat shaped bushings one in front of spring eye one in back and a smooth through pin. Only got nuts on one side, real easy to fit.?
Personally I like to use oem Ford shackles. More difficult to fit, and gota be aligned before pressing in, but proper as designed.
Martin
 
1938 Coupe said:
I don't want to replace the whole bushing from the spring just remove the bolts that hold the shackle into the bushing. How do I go about that without destroying the bushing itself? Thanks
Click to expand...
Forget all what was said above!
Ok I just want to remove the whole bushing from the front spring. I heated the bushing and the bolt came out. Now I need to get the steel sleeve out of the spring itself. I'm replacing the lever action shocks with Pete and Jake tube shock setup. The new bushings come on the shackle kit and I have to get the old ones out. How do I remove the steel sleeve?
 
It takes a punch slightly less in diameter than the OD of the bushing ( so it will slip through) and either a press or a big hammer. They can be a pain.
 
I cut down a sawzall blade to fit thru the hole and cut it thru a couple times if need be,then just drive it out. Clean it up real good and use the speedway,p/j style shackles to put it all back together.
 
Removing the shackle bolt from the spring is no problem. The spring does not grip the bushing as tight as the perch bolt or rear housing bell does. I use an iron pipe slightly smaller than the pushing and a 3 # hammer. With the spring laying on the lawn, about 4 or 5 wacks drives out the bushing and bolt. If necessary, they can be reinstalled. For the perch or rear bell mounts, hacksaws, torches, hammers and presses are needed.
 
scooder said:
Just out of interest, why not use the commonly available aftermarket like Ford 38v8 mentioned? They have two opposing top hat shaped bushings one in front of spring eye one in back and a smooth through pin. Only got nuts on one side, real easy to fit.?
Personally I like to use oem Ford shackles. More difficult to fit, and gota be aligned before pressing in, but proper as designed.
Martin
Click to expand...

Martin,
All 8 oem bushings were worn through the rubber leaving the center bolt chaffing the outer sleeve. Not sure how long it takes for that to happen but removing the leftover sleeve is a pleasure I would not gladly repeat. The best that can be achieved by the design is .125" material supporting/ cushioning the weight of the vehicle at each shackle pivot. I thought it was worth trying something other than the OEM style; teflon, delrin, polyurethane, rubber, oilite bronze, and aluminum are commonly used/ available materials. When I considered the thickness I was working with, I decided on aluminum tube, .75" OD x .5" ID with .125 wall, its cheap, strong, readily available. I don't have great confidence that the various polymers will last, be effective and greatly superior at 1/8" thick. Lubrication is the chief drawback of aluminum but not insurmountable in my opinion. And, if it turns out I'm wrong, its not like they are going to take away my birthday, I just drive them out, try something else and deny it ever happened.

1938 Coupe- Add to the list of potential implements of destruction an air hammer or muffler gun. My cheapo air hammer from HF works but exercise care so as not to gall the inside of the spring perch, the spring eye is harder and lets loose of the bushing much easier, being springy.
 
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