Improve '40 brakes on a '34?
- Thread starter maud
- Start date
Byron Warwick
Senior Member
I installed '40 brakes on my '34 Pickup in the sixties. I rebuilt everything during my restoration, and used a "Mustang", dual Master cylinder and newyl rebuilt shoes. I don't have a problem with these brakes.
Cheers, Byron.
Cheers, Byron.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
They should not be marginal unless there is a problem in the brake system somewhere.
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Hey maud......It's really hard to try to diagnose any possible remedies when your description of symptoms and the list of actual pieces of equipment you've used in your brake SYSTEM is "marginal at best".
What do the brakes do, or NOT do? What type of brakes did you use at each corner? What years and type of drums? Did you mount the shoes correctly? Were drums turned, and to what dimension? What type of master cylinder and what is the M/C bore (very important)? We need a whole lot of details for any hope of anything like a realistic analysis. DD
What do the brakes do, or NOT do? What type of brakes did you use at each corner? What years and type of drums? Did you mount the shoes correctly? Were drums turned, and to what dimension? What type of master cylinder and what is the M/C bore (very important)? We need a whole lot of details for any hope of anything like a realistic analysis. DD
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Two biggies...shoes ground to fit actual diameter of drum, and BOTH adjustments made by the book, look in your service bulletins or in Rumbleseat's free online book.
First, the shoes get centered, then after that (until shoes are changed) minor adjustment for wear is done with upper adjustment only. Upper adjustment alone will not do the job until lower has been set right.
Basic adjustment is to get shoes as close to drums as possible without drag.
Your '40's have the double adjustment system, postwar '46-8 no.
First, the shoes get centered, then after that (until shoes are changed) minor adjustment for wear is done with upper adjustment only. Upper adjustment alone will not do the job until lower has been set right.
Basic adjustment is to get shoes as close to drums as possible without drag.
Your '40's have the double adjustment system, postwar '46-8 no.
flatheadfan
Well-known member
Several years ago I converted to hydraulic brakes on my '35 ('46-'48 Ford). The brakes were o.k. and definitely better than mechanical brakes. But, I was wanting something more aggressive without undergoing large (and expensive) updating to a modern braking system. The solution? I added a '54-'57 Ford vacuum booster. It was an easy and economical install and the brakes went from the mundane to the "super stopper" class!
This was not a new idea on my part. The various car manufactures did this during the 50s and 60s to upgrade their braking system to match the increasing power of modern engines.
Tom
This was not a new idea on my part. The various car manufactures did this during the 50s and 60s to upgrade their braking system to match the increasing power of modern engines.
Tom
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mrtexas
Well-known member
The bendix brakes are way better. IMHO throw out the old lockheeds and get some good brakes. I called my old lockheed backing plates "Ford frisbees" at the Chickasha swap meet. Didn't sell any either.
On my 36 woodie I put squareback spindles and discs on the front and bendix on the back. I might send my rear end off and get 9inch axles put on. Then I could have 4 wheel discs.
Bassman/NZ
Well-known member
I have 39-40 type brakes with a 67 Mustang dual master. They work great. If you have them set up right there is no need for a Lincoln upgrade or disc brakes.
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Is the long shoe in the correct position? It is the opposite from Bendix brakes but I don't remember what is correct, try the archives.
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens
1937pickup
Well-known member
Contact Richard Lacy at Early V8 Garage-he is the guru of old Ford brakes.
Talkwrench
Well-known member
Yes if they are setup well they do work. I did the same as Tom with a brake booster kept with the original single circuit. The bore size is unknown in the booster , yes its a bit better but not a revelation. I drive almost daily and Im happy with my brakes for what they are .
I have a dual circuit power booster [new] on my 56 Fairlane and the brakes are crap, Ive tried to work out why and now Im down to disassembly and new lines even though most parts look new ..?? Fades very badly when you need it most.
I have a dual circuit power booster [new] on my 56 Fairlane and the brakes are crap, Ive tried to work out why and now Im down to disassembly and new lines even though most parts look new ..?? Fades very badly when you need it most.
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I have a lot to chew on here. My car had already been converted to juice brakes when I got it. My wheel cylinders have 2 sizes of cups on each end, is this normal? I do not know the correct adjusting method. I didn't measure the drums.
I just moved from Texas to Oklahoma and now don't have a shop, or even a halfway level spot to work on anything. We have been getting so much rain, if I did get the car out from under the carport I'd be stuck. Thanks so much for the advice. I've been a mechanic for 40 years but these brakes are from another era, my '69 Roadrunner has great brakes! Thank you for the help.
I just moved from Texas to Oklahoma and now don't have a shop, or even a halfway level spot to work on anything. We have been getting so much rain, if I did get the car out from under the carport I'd be stuck. Thanks so much for the advice. I've been a mechanic for 40 years but these brakes are from another era, my '69 Roadrunner has great brakes! Thank you for the help.
If one of us could find it, I'd suggest we re-post the procedure from Richard Lacy. I don't think it's been posted in a long time, and I believe folks new to these brakes could benefit from Richards experience.
Perhaps if someone posts Richards phone #, this fellow could get on-track with info.
(Oops, I see an 'almost' link posted above.)
Perhaps if someone posts Richards phone #, this fellow could get on-track with info.
(Oops, I see an 'almost' link posted above.)
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Any chance the linkage was designed incorrectly and you are not getting enough "push" when you step on the pedal?
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens