Radius ball shim

Henry's Lady's Man

Henry's Lady's Man

Senior Member
I can't find my answer on existing posts, so I'll ask afresh to all the Model A Wizards... I seem to have no appreciable CASTOR, so I purchased a hemi-spherical cup-like shim with a hole in it from Brattons. Then, I found a really dumb You Tube video of some guys in Mass. "RichPins" installing it UNDER THE BALL! [Jeepers, these guys don't know how to communicate, and the dad gives rediculous half answers to his son, like "I don't know, I tighten it till it feels good"]. I'm convinced they are wrong and "bass-ackwards". Shouldn't it go OVER the radius ball? Only OVER the ball would push the ball down (lower it) and change the castor. Am I wrong or right here?
Also, is it fairly easy to pull the radius ball down to get this cup over the top of the ball (felt pad too)?
~ Chuck
 
Given that most of the wear happens on the top of the ball, I agree with you but for a different reason. It should go on the top.;)
 
Yes, it should go on the top for both reasons. But, it won't add very much caster. Make sure the rod to axle attachment is tight/correct also. Caster should be around 5º.
 
Maybe you should also check if you have the original Radius Rod socket set or the later replacement.


Ps. I am from Massachusetts
 
I redid the radius ball shim, putting it on top. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I measured the caster. now, it is exactly 5 degrees forward. [I don't know what is measured before, but the car tracks forward much better; no more wandering, no more swimming.
 
Henry's Lady's Man said:
I redid the radius ball shim, putting it on top. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I measured the caster. now, it is exactly 5 degrees forward. [I don't know what is measured before, but the car tracks forward much better; no more wandering, no more swimming.
Click to expand...
Tiny bit of caster change probably DIDN'T do much to improve it. Taking the ball slack out of it was what REALLY helped. Be SURE to rub heavy grease on the BALL! Like "they" say, if it moves, grease or lubricate it!
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Tiny bit of caster change probably DIDN'T do much to improve it. Taking the ball slack out of it was what REALLY helped. Be SURE to rub heavy grease on the BALL! Like "they" say, if it moves, grease or lubricate it!
Bill W.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Bill. I will put some heavy axle grease on it, even though it's supposed to be lubricated from the top. I guess if they got enough grease from the top, they wouldn't wear out... right?
 
Slack in the radius ball gets "overlooked" many times! Just think, with a loose ball, if you welded a TILLER handle to the rear of the radius rods, you could LITERALLY "STEER" the car with it!
You also have to KNOW if the socket set up is original, or the larger set up, that was designed to accommodate the rubber ball.
Another, often overlooked thing, is loose nuts that secure the steering arms to the spindles, usually causing a side to side "WOBBLY" FEELING, at "MID" speeds!
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Slack in the radius ball gets "overlooked" many times! Just think, with a loose ball, if you welded a TILLER handle to the rear of the radius rods, you could LITERALLY "STEER" the car with it!
You also have to KNOW if the socket set up is original, or the larger set up, that was designed to accommodate the rubber ball.
Another, often overlooked thing, is loose nuts that secure the steering arms to the spindles, usually causing a side to side "WOBBLY" FEELING, at "MID" speeds!
Bill W.
Click to expand...
Good advice. I believe my car is fairly original, and the steel radius ball is still there... no evidence of ever having a rubber conversion. I fixed all my wobble by redoing spindle balls and drag link ball, with new (shorter) pitman arm, and new kingpins and bushings. The brakes are all redone, with Flathead Ted stuff in it.
One last fix: cast iron drums tomorrow, and I'm in tall cotton!
Chuck
 
pat in Santa Cruz said:
it will work its way to the bottom unless you tack weld it up top.
Click to expand...
Pat, Seriously???

I'm not refuting you, but I never heard of, or considered that the shim would work its way down. The hole in the center is clearly intended to pass lubricant from "on high" onto the ball. If the shim ishifts downward, that would be a design flaw, I'm thinkin'. Then again, a shim was not in the original engineering. You could be right.
 
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