newbie with a 49 tudor...Flathead 6

Since you're getting into these sixes, keep your eye out for a big truck six. They are 254 cu. in. (one less than a '49-'51 Mercury) and full of torque. With just a little work will outrun many a flathead V8.
 
LazarusLong said:
I think I might hate you. I know I will hate you if you tell us you paid 200 bucks for it.
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Technically I traded two free cars for this 49, so I have $135.00 in tow fees :)
However I have since bought a new 6V battery (over 100 bucks)

Thanks for all the great info.

The starter spins it was dirty when it was removed from the car.

I will check for the "H" on the head in a few minutes.

I have been watching project banana split on Detroit musclep on television and they put disc on the front of their 49. I think this would be a great improvement. They also added a dual master cylinder from a C3 vette in the stock location and it worked great they said.

I may have to rebuild the stock brakes at first but hope to go disc on front later on
 
Harper said:
I will check for the "H" on the head in a few minutes.

I have been watching project banana split on Detroit musclep on television and they put disc on the front of their 49. I think this would be a great improvement. They also added a dual master cylinder from a C3 vette in the stock location and it worked great they said.

I may have to rebuild the stock brakes at first but hope to go disc on front later on
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The letter "G" or "H" will be on the block,not the head. It will be just below the intake and exhaust manifolds.

My advise is to just stick with the basics for the time being and rebuild what is there. It is pretty cheap to do and real simple. You can learn from it and if you decide the car is not for you after driving it around for a short while,you won't have a ton of money in it that you can't get back when selling it. Installing disc brakes,a new dual outlet disc brake master cylinder,and a power brake booster can get expensive.

Nothing wrong with disc brakes,but the truth is there is also nothing wrong with drum brakes if they are operating properly. Disc brakes handle heat better without fading,but if you are just doing normal driving and not going up and down mountains or hauling heavy loads,the old drum brakes will work just fine if you service and adjust them properly. Make sure if you replace the brake shoes that you also have the drums turned and new grease seals put in the front ones.
 
I was doing some reading and the head has 7HA 6050-C2 on it which may be the G series

My buddy Jim White has a 1950 with Flathead 8
He's all about some pre-1950's Cars and his 1950 Ford is nearly 100% original
He is also a great source of info for me. And he's only maybe in his mid to late 40's

I also have another buddy who has another 1950 model
With in 100 miles
So I have two great resources close by

Thank you all for all of your input it is greatly appreciated
 
Your engine is an "H" series. The "H" in 7HA means H series.
The H series heads can be:
7HA, 8HA, OHA and 1HA - they are all the same design and can be interchanged.
 
Harper said:
I was doing some reading and the head has 7HA 6050-C2 on it which may be the G series
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Your engine is probably the correct "H" series engine given that the head has a "H" in the casting number,but a head is just a head. It does not define the engine. Look for the casting number on the BLOCK that is just below the intake and exhaust manifolds. That is the engine casting number.
 
The quickest way to distinguish a "G" from an "H" is the distributor. On a "G" it's in the front like a 59A-style V8 and on the "H" it's on the side of the engine.
 
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