oil pan gasketinstallation picture

1

1929tudor

Senior Member
I'm going to replace my oil pan gasket. My motor is in the car so I know it will be a little harder than it out and upside down. My question is does anyone have a picture of the oil pan off and the gasket installed so I can see how the ends go and the cork ones go to. I have Les Andrews book and it explains it but a picture to actually see it would be awesome. Even if the motor picture is upside would be real helpfull. thanks so much.
 
It's pretty easy. I just replaced mine while on (under) the car. Lay the gaskets out flat and put on a coat of sealer (I used purple Permitex), let it get tacky and stick it on the block. Make sure all the surfaces are clean. Some sealer on the bottom of the gasket facing the pan also. It'll stick up there. Turn the wheels so the tie rod is out of the way. I had the car jacked up and had the pan on my chest when I lifted it up to the block. I had to remove the little bolts on the rear inspection plate to clear. Line up the holes and put in a couple of bolts for starters and put in the rest. Hope this helps a little. Sorry no pics. I was too busy at the time
Pete
 
i use some spray tack like a weatherstrip adhesive to stick the gasket up on the block. i only use a dab of permatex where the gasket meets the cork in all 4 corners. it makes for a cleaner job and you wont have silicone squezzing out all over the place if you use it on the whole gasket
 
On my earlier post I said the car was "jacked up". I meant raised on blocks and solid as a rock. Please don't think I got under the car in that position with the car on jacks. That's a real big no-no!
 
A tip, if you've never had the "pleasure" before.

Obtain 2 or 3, 1 1/2" long bolts, the same thread as the pan bolts (5/16"-18 I think), cut off the head and round over that end.
Screw these "studs" into block by hand.
Prepare and raise the pan into place using the "studs" for a guide. Install several of the regular bolts and then replace the "studs" with bolts.

Enjoy.
 
I like Tom's idea of installing temporary dowels in the block to help guide it up.

One thing confuses me though. The cork gasket set I bought from Snyders says not to use anything with it and that it is self sealing. Is that the case or can I /should I still use some hi-tack or silicone?
 
MrTube said:
I like Tom's idea of installing temporary dowels in the block to help guide it up.

One thing confuses me though. The cork gasket set I bought from Snyders says not to use anything with it and that it is self sealing. Is that the case or can I /should I still use some hi-tack or silicone?
Click to expand...

Use some hi-tack or such to hold the gasket in place. It's the only good way to hold the gasket in place while you install the pan, and it won't hurt a thing.
 
Tom from Drippin' said:
A tip, if you've never had the "pleasure" before.

Obtain 2 or 3, 1 1/2" long bolts, the same thread as the pan bolts (5/16"-18 I think), cut off the head and round over that end.
Screw these "studs" into block by hand.
Prepare and raise the pan into place using the "studs" for a guide. Install several of the regular bolts and then replace the "studs" with bolts.

Enjoy.
Click to expand...

This sounds like an excellent idea! I've got to pull the pan on my '29 soon and I'm going to try this when I reinstall.
Gotta be easier than trying to hold the pan in place with one hand while starting bolts with the other. Been there and done that!
 
I also use 2 small spring clamps to hold the pan in place while getting a couple of bolts located. Don't forget to put some oil in the dipper trays,otherwise it takes a bit for oil to fill those trays up.
 
I place the rear cork seal coiled in an empty soup can to hold the coil for a day or two so it takes a curved set. If you try to install it immediately from its straight position as it came from the package, it will keep popping out as you try to set the pan in place. When I am ready to install it all, I glue the pan gasket to the crank case with tacky gasket glue, then cut the rear seal to fit. Be certain to cut the rear seal so it fits tightly to the pan gasket. A gap will leak oil. Press it in the groove of the rear main cap with a dab of RTV Ultra Black or permatex #2 where it meets the pan gasket and again at the front rope seal. I lift the pan with my floor jack, but the threaded dowels will work well if you have no floor jack. Trying to push the pan in place against the oil pump spring is too much work.

BTW, you will need a way to hold the pump in place while you assemble the pan...I remove the oil access screw that's on the outside of the oil pump boss right above the gasket surface, below the manifolds.. and use a 1/8th pipe thread tap that I screw into the hole so it will hold the pump. Once the pan is installed, remove the tap and replace the screw plug.

The reason the new gaskets say no sealer is because the sealer will act like lubricant against the rubberizing in the gasket and the gasket will squish out when you tighten it if the sealer is still wet. For that reason, use something that will dry quickly, like permatex aircraft or copper coat, not silicone. There's no other way to hold the gasket in place. Do not seal the pan side of the gasket, or you regret it next time the pan must come off.
 
If you take a hacksaw and cut a slot into the end of each temporary alignment stud (protruding end) you use to align the oil pan, it is easier to remove them after a few regular bolts are installed to hold the pan in place. Just use a slotted screwdriver and unscrew them. As noted, the protruding stud ends should be rounded to make the pan easier to install.
 
I like the idea with the headless bolts for lignup but wouls a 2" piece of 5/16"-20 do the samer thing and the screw driver slot in the end is a good idea Gord B by the Bay
 
Just to reinforce Pat's advice, the key issue is to seal the front and the back where the pan gasket meets the rear pan seal and the front rope seal. This is where the leaks will occur.
 
We use a few more head less screws than suggested above. Bend a few paper clips hook the big end around the screw to hold the gasket up with the small bent end out. after you get the pan bolts started just unhook the paper clips from the bolt. You can also use a piece of string tied around the oil pump to overflow pipe or manifolds to hold it in place. If you use the self sealing (crap in my OP) gaskets don't over tighten or they will mush out even without any sealer on them. The rear cork seal will have to be trimmed some, they are too long. The front seal, some people don't, I work a little oil into it. Seems to make it a little easier to push into the groove.
 
Now you tell me. I put the rear cork seal in full length and crushed it with the pan. I haven't fired it up yet but at least I've got some ideas on how to lower it (the pan) far enough to redo the seal.
 
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