1940 ford water pumps

If I remember correctly, I think that I put a floor jack, with a square of plywood, under the oil pan, took the motor mount loose, on one side, and raised it just enough to lift the engine slightly off the pad. Once I had that side on, bolted it back down.

Rinse, spit, and repeat for the other side.
 
There is one bolt inside the pump. I used some heat to lossen. Also use a coat hanger or heavy wire and rake out the crud in the block while pumps are off. Keep digging and rinsing.
 
In addition to the advice above I put anti-seize on the threads just to make sure they will come out in the future.
 
Two points that are a must when changing a flat head water pump.
The lower concealed bolt:
To assist with the removal of the lower bolt hidden within the pump body.. Clean as much of the debris from around the bolt head.. Use a six point socket in lieu of the more conventional twelve point. If the six point socket strips off the head then you'll have to use a special socket.
Patience is golden in removing this bolt, give a little pull on the ratchet, then reverse it for a light push the other direction. If the bolts appears to be turning in the removal direction, repeat the in and out directions. As a rule the bolt will come loose without stripping and/or breaking.
For a replacement bolt a stainless steel bolt can be good, however, not all stainless bolts are of a high quality, automotive and/or grade 8 might be better. General hardware bolts are of very poor quality.
Oil passage:
There is an oil passage through the block that provides oil to the pump shaft. Run a wire through the passage to make sure it is open. An inspection of the old pump will give you a clue as to if the old water pump was being lubricated..
Oil to the water pump is not pressurized, it is gravity feed on a total loss principle. A plugged oil passage is the major cause of water pump failure.
 
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