newbie with a 49 tudor...Flathead 6
- Thread starter Harper
- Start date
Harper
Member
Agreed both counts!
Tinker
Well-known member
Hey buddy. Take a minute and give us a complete rundown of the car. Post pictures of the full car, problem areas, rusted out areas ( trust me we have seen the worst) and maybe a bit of how ya recieved it. Take it slow and be over exuberant on pictures. It will save you a lot of time and money. Going from one small project to another ( starter or carb ) won't help you in the long run. We are here to help.
Harper
Member
The car was saved from a local scrap yard a few weeks ago. The more I have investigated the better it looks and the more I believe that this car was a running car within the last 2-3 years. The engine turned over when my tow driver was loading it by it mistakenly being in gear. It currently is entirely complete with exception of passenger side trim, and rear seat. The windows let up and down pretty well, the car has all the windows in it, all the wiring, hoses, plug wires, everything. The ignition switch is taken apart and not currently working.
The car even has the exhaust on it (hole in the muffler)
I discovered the carb needs a top gasket in it when I poured fuel in it anticipating starting it this last Saturday (fuel ran out the gap in the side where a gasket should have been).
I have pulled all plugs and they were like new nearly, the points system seems to be ok (not stuck) and I have a new 6v battery for it.
I now have the starter removed and cleaned and it still appears to spin and is not in a bind (spins freely) but the gear doesn't appear to engage all the way to the inner bushing (where the fly wheel would reside).
I just put a wrench on the front crank bolt and it turns like any engine should. I can feel compression but it is not excessive nor does it appear to be to easily.
I have many pictures posted in the picture album attached to my profile. I will post more tomorrow as I get more.
Thanks for all replys it has definitely helped.
My goal is to get bit started, running and as time and money permit driving. This car has found a good home. I intend on keeping her for a long time
The car even has the exhaust on it (hole in the muffler)
I discovered the carb needs a top gasket in it when I poured fuel in it anticipating starting it this last Saturday (fuel ran out the gap in the side where a gasket should have been).
I have pulled all plugs and they were like new nearly, the points system seems to be ok (not stuck) and I have a new 6v battery for it.
I now have the starter removed and cleaned and it still appears to spin and is not in a bind (spins freely) but the gear doesn't appear to engage all the way to the inner bushing (where the fly wheel would reside).
I just put a wrench on the front crank bolt and it turns like any engine should. I can feel compression but it is not excessive nor does it appear to be to easily.
I have many pictures posted in the picture album attached to my profile. I will post more tomorrow as I get more.
Thanks for all replys it has definitely helped.
My goal is to get bit started, running and as time and money permit driving. This car has found a good home. I intend on keeping her for a long time
.
chap52
Well-known member
"Oh you are still running the ol flathead" Had my truck in a big car show and enjoyed watching people circling like vultures and then they noticed the engine. Was a great opportunity to encourage apparent fathers with young kids to keep the hobby alive and tinker on an old flathead with their kid.
I am blessed when one of our sons, now 32 smiles when he gets to help his pop on the flathead. And he is a top class fabricator and mechanic. Enjoy the adventure!
I am blessed when one of our sons, now 32 smiles when he gets to help his pop on the flathead. And he is a top class fabricator and mechanic. Enjoy the adventure!
Harper
Member
I have a friend with a 50 model for who just happens to be a parts store guy as well. He has definitely been a great source as have you guys here. Thanks and I will direct him to the barn...
LazarusLong
Senior Member
Ok,it's not coming out because you didn't unbolt the starter. The two long bolts hold the starter on,so you have to loosen them. No big deal. Once they are loose you can use a screw driver or a light tap from a hammer to break the starter free,and then just put the bolt heads towards the rear as you take the starter off.
Once you get it off you can just put nuts on the bolts if you are worried about it coming apart.
And if it does come apart,that's no big deal,either. You have to take them apart to put brushes and bushing in them anyhow,and from the look of yours the armature probably needs to be cleaned up and new brushes and bushing put in it anyhow.
BTW,check your engine block on the passenger side up near the intake and exhaust manifold to see if the letter "G" or the letter "H" is there. The "G" is the 1941 (?) to 1948 flathead 6,and the "H" is the 1949 to 1951 flatjead.which is what your car should have.
I know it is almost heretical around flathead Ford people,but I prefer the flat 6 and that is what is staying my coupe as long as I own it. In fact,I specifically looked for a coupe with the flat 6 to buy.
Once you get it off you can just put nuts on the bolts if you are worried about it coming apart.
And if it does come apart,that's no big deal,either. You have to take them apart to put brushes and bushing in them anyhow,and from the look of yours the armature probably needs to be cleaned up and new brushes and bushing put in it anyhow.
BTW,check your engine block on the passenger side up near the intake and exhaust manifold to see if the letter "G" or the letter "H" is there. The "G" is the 1941 (?) to 1948 flathead 6,and the "H" is the 1949 to 1951 flatjead.which is what your car should have.
I know it is almost heretical around flathead Ford people,but I prefer the flat 6 and that is what is staying my coupe as long as I own it. In fact,I specifically looked for a coupe with the flat 6 to buy.
LazarusLong
Senior Member
The Bendix starter drive is different. The flat 6 and the flat 8 had different numbers of teeth on their flywheels,so the starter drives have different numbers of teeth.
LazarusLong
Senior Member
he wasn't home, so I parked down the road and walked in
there was an old thunderbird vertible rotting away, a stutabaker, and old ford pickup, I didn't walk in far but there is quite a few old cars in there. I will go back when it cools down one afternoon.
Let me know if he has any 51 club coupe parts.
Especially a 51 or 52 Fordomatic and/or associated parts,and a complete 51 ignition switch with all the springs,bezels,and lock nuts.
LazarusLong
Senior Member
Not trying to be a wise ***,but at home. They are very simple carbs. Chances are all yours will really need is to be cleaned,blown out,and have new gaskets installed.
The kits even come with instructions.
From what I have seen and experienced,the more work guys do to their cars,the more they appreciate and value them.
Besides,it gives you the excuse you need to buy tools.
Win/win.
LazarusLong
Senior Member
Take the starter drive off and then look at the shaft to make sure it is straight and that it will turn by hand. If it is bent you will need a new armature as well as bushings.
Bent armatures are rare,though. Usually it's just the starter drive spring that is worn out,or the teeth chewed up.
BTW,don't panic if the starter drive seems to wobble a bit (You DID put nuts on the long rods before you tried this,right?" when you test it with a battery and jumper cables while off the car. That starter drive is a lot of unbalanced weight out there on the end. When it engages the flywheel it won't be shaking.
BTW,do yourself a favor and buy a Motors Manual that covers 1949 to 1951 cars,and also get the Ford factory service manual. These cars were pretty simple to work on,and the manuals are written in a way most people can easily understand what they are being told to do. Lots of photos in them,too.
LazarusLong
Senior Member
I think I might hate you. I know I will hate you if you tell us you paid 200 bucks for it.
LazarusLong
Senior Member
Since it is a old car and might not still have the same carb it came from the factory with,the best thing to do it take it off,drain all the gas out of it,and take it to a NAPA store and let them look at it and order a rebuild kit for you. Generally speaking,the guys at NAPA stores are more knowledgeable than the counter guys at places like Auto Zone.
A word of caution,do NOT drive the car on the road or into your garage until you have rebuilt the brakes,including replacing the brake lines and hoses. This is a old single outlet master cylinder you have on that car,and if just one brake line fails you lose brakes to all 4 wheels.
The first thing you should do with the car is make sure the emergency brake works,and that it will stop the car if it is rolling. Then you can worry about the other stuff.
My 51 had brakes on it when I bought it. The guy selling it said he had rebuilt all the brakes and replaced the brake lines that needed replacing,and they worked fine driving it around his farm and driving it on my trailer. When I rolled it off the trailer at home the master cylinder failed,and it rolled into a box truck bumper. The guy didn't rebuild the master cylinder. He didn't even flush the system out when he rebuilt the rear brakes because there was rust and trash in the lines. One set of rear shoes were put on backwards.
You just never know what has been done to these old cars by previous owners,so be cautious.
You can buy brand new wheel cylinders from http://www.rockauto.com/
for $4.95 each,and the hoses are inexpensive,also.
My recomendation is to replace the steel brake lines while you are at it with the new copper/nickel brake lines that you can bend by hand without kinking. A 25 foot roll will cost you roughly $30,and it's enough to do the whole system. The brake line on your car most likely has rust on the inside as well as the outside,and it's just not worth taking the risk to save 30 bucks.
Rock auto also sells a master cyl rebuild kit for 12 bucks,but since you are a new mechanic you would probably be better off just buying a brand new master cylinder and using yours for a core. Napa can help you with that,or you can just buy it off one of the usual suspects,like Dennis Carpenter or Bob Drake. Cost will be close to 100 bucks including shipping. Sounds like a lot,but the truth is you can rebuild your ***** brake system for less than 250 bucks,and this includes new shoes and having the drums turned if it needs them. Do it all at the same time,do it right,and then you don't have to worry about it again.