rear brake drum removal

[Rich Overton]

Hi barners, I've checked the prior posts but am still not exactly clear. My old '40 Merc. back in 1954 required a "knock off" to remove the rear drums. With regards to 1948 (Mercury) according to previous posts that I've read here, penetrating oil, heat and backing off shoes etc. is mentioned but no mention of pullers or knock offs. My green Ford service manual does not mention how to remove them either. Am I correct in assuming that pullers etc. are not required. They don't seem to want to budge and I don't want to destroy anything. If I do need a knock off or any other tool, where can I purchase it? I've checked on Dick Spadaro's, Mac's, Drake's, Carpenter's and Speedway, don't find anything.
Thanks a lot!! Rich O.

 

[Steve Staysko]

Winfield Tool Works - Phone: 631-928-3316. Address: PO Box 476, Port Jefferson NY 11777
They sell a reproduction of the original puller.

 

[jerry grayson]

hi barners, i've checked the prior posts but am still not exactly clear. My old '40 merc. Back in 1954 required a "knock off" to remove the rear drums. With regards to 1948 (mercury) according to previous posts that i've read here, penetrating oil, heat and backing off shoes etc. Is mentioned but no mention of pullers or knock offs. My green ford service manual does not mention how to remove them either. Am i correct in assuming that pullers etc. Are not required. They don't seem to want to budge and i don't want to destroy anything. If i do need a knock off or any other tool, where can i purchase it? I've checked on dick spadaro's, mac's, drake's, carpenter's and speedway, don't find anything.
Thanks a lot!! Rich o.

a puller is required!! See other post for one.

 

[john in illinois]

You need a good puller because if you damage the axle it is expensive.Model A and early V8 used the same puller. As mentioned original puller is good.

Here is the original design reproduced. I sometimes heat the hub a little before I put on puller. http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/search.php?q=A-1114-T&x=89&y=19. Other vendors carry it too.

John

 

[THEBAV39RUMBLECONV]

Several good "Smacks" should get them off (each side)

 

[19Fordy]

Buy the Winfield Puller and you will never regret it - even if you only use it twice. It's the "cat's meow."

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I would not recommend using a "knock off" tool due to the possibility of damaging axle threads or internal parts/gears. If you are a member of the Early Ford V-8 Club, you may be able to borrow a good hub/drum puller from one of the members in a Regional Group near you. If you are going to buy one, get a good one like mentioned above from Winfield Tool Works. They make a reproduction of the K.R. Wilson rear hub puller ABV-156. There is usually an ad for these in the V8 Times Mag.
Another possibility is to make your own puller like I did from pieces of steel and parts I already had in my shop. It's not all that pretty but it sure works well for me. Just pulled the rear drums off my '35 fordor sedan to check the brake shoes, add brake floaters/equalizers and repack the wheel bearings. I will attach a few pictures.....

ps..those drums were stuck fast to the axle tapers and the strong bar was not getting it done, so I went to my 3/4" drive impact wrench and popped 'em right off. You will notice in one picture where I have threaded the nut back on the axle threads. I do this to keep the drum from coming back in my face when they are really difficult to break loose.

 

[Mac VP]

We rent out the Winfield tool if he doesn't want to buy one outright...

 

[Rich Overton]

Well, as expected, "our" barners are a wealth of information and as "really good people" do, willing to share! Thank you all! Steve-Jerry-John-BAV39-19Fordy-JM35- & Mac VP and anyone that might add to the information!

Sincere thanks from Rich O.

 

[russcc]

This morning I downloaded an article from this site titled, "section 12 Brakes" "Brakes", revised 4/27/2009", and put together by members of this site. It covered how to remove rear brake drums without a puller. Very simple & ingenious methods. In addition it covered Lockheed and Bendix type brakes '39-48 Ford & Merc., 39'-48 Lincoln and '49-54 Ford & Mercs., and F-100, how to adjust each type, bleed master & wheel cylinders and more. Excellent and comprehensive article. Adjusted the '40 brakes using it, worked great.

 

[flat-v8]

Unless your drums are really really stuck, this is all you need, 3 jaw basic puller, pulled mine off in a few seconds!

 

[19Fordy]

Unless your drums are really really stuck, this is all you need, 3 jaw basic puller, pulled mine off in a few seconds![/QUOTe


OH no!

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Unless your drums are really really stuck, this is all you need, 3 jaw basic puller, pulled mine off in a few seconds!

If your old Ford rear drums ain't "really stuck", the last guy didn't install them properly. DD

 

[V12Bill]

I had a drum really stuck on my Lincoln last Spring. I tried the three jaw puller with no success and then tried the Winfield type puller with no success Finally I installed the tire and the Winfield type puller with the hub nut backed off a couple of threads. I drove the car around the block at about 20 mph and on the second go round the drum popped. I have also heard of backing off the hub nut and driving the car in a tight circle in a parking lot to do the same thing. Sometimes they are really on tight which is really a good thing.

 

[bobH]

Someone once posted here... A good puller, similar to the Winfield/KRW design, but priced less (around a bill)... Try vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers

 

[Chappy]

Is the puller required because of a press fit, rust, or something else? The reason I ask is because at work we have a large slide hammer that uses the lug studs to pull wheel bearings on modern cars, if I fabbed up a 5.5 bolt pattern I wonder if it would work.
I'll let you know.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

It's required because of the designed "tapered" fit. Works just like a Morse Taper. The tighter and more-precise the fit, the better. That's the reason the torque on that nut is so high, and also why leaving that nut semi-loose is a BAD idea. Also the reason why the hub and axle should be assembled clean and DRY (no lube). TIGHT is the way it was designed. DD

 

[Kube]

Unless your drums are really really stuck, this is all you need, 3 jaw basic puller, pulled mine off in a few seconds!

If your drums came off that easily, they were not fitted correctly to the taper. The drums are meant to seat tightly against the taper...

 

[Kube]

Is the puller required because of a press fit, rust, or something else? The reason I ask is because at work we have a large slide hammer that uses the lug studs to pull wheel bearings on modern cars, if I fabbed up a 5.5 bolt pattern I wonder if it would work.
I'll let you know.

Pulling from the studs actually increases the pressure upon the taper. While you may overcome it with the puller you describe, the odds of warping the drum are very high.

The groove cast in to the hub was put there not by accident. It was put there so a proper puller could apply the "oomph" at that point.

 

[RalphG]

I had a two jaw puller on the rear drum of my 39 for most of the winter. Under pressure. Gave it a tap every now and then with a hammer. Put a bit of heat to it. Nothing moved.