51 Merc v/8 into 40 ford

dixiedelux said:
Great Help again, Fordy! I plan to use the homemade piece in front of radiator. It is used a lot, isn't it? The panel inside the nose of the hood, I have yet to see. I have the new I outer grill panels #91A-8104/5. I have new inner fender panels. I plan to have my hood louvered. I suppose it would be prudent to drop the panels off with the hood. the problem with that is all of the new Drake paint will have to be removed and I am not sure there is much flat area to louver. Is there an aftermarket vendor for the 40 inner fender panels? How about Mr. 40?
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The little piece of metal between the radiator and the hood latch bracket is not commonly used. Instead, there is a sheet metal piece that you can buy that fits over the entire opening on top of the grille. It's called a grille shroud and looks like this:
http://www.mr40s.com/mr.-40-s-stuff.html Figure out a way to install it without having to drill holes into your existing sheetmetal brackets. Maybe, use industrial Vel-Cro.
Make your own piece out of thick cardboard, first, to see how it works before spending any $$. Again, try to avoid drilling any holes into your OEM metal.
 
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19Fordy said:
The little piece of metal between the radiator and the hood latch bracket is not commonly used. Instead, there is a sheet metal piece that you can buy that fits over the entire opening on top of the grille. It's called a grille shroud and looks like this:
http://www.mr40s.com/mr.-40-s-stuff.html Figure out a way to install it without having to drill holes into your existing sheetmetal brackets. Maybe, use industrial Vel-Cro.
Make your own piece out of thick cardboard, first, to see how it works before spending any $$. Again, try to avoid drilling any holes into your OEM metal.
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Your link would not go through, Fordy. I believe this is the one; I hope it works:
http://www.mr40s.com/mr.-40-s-stuff.html Sorry! This link doesn't work on my computer
Now, that grill shroud, I have seen frequently. It is the the one, pattern reversed, that is up in the nose of the hood that I havn't seen. Of course I don't regularly look up into that area. This link also has the lourvered inner fenders. I paid only 100-125, sale priced, from Bob Drake. Considering the price of lourvering, the Mr. 40's louvered examples are not that picy compared to Mr. 40's "flat" unit's. I'll check mine at the shop today, but mine seemed to have a lot of contours, making it not conducive to lourving.
 
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Ol' Ron said:
The EAB heads have a higher CR, and the stock distributor is worthless and can't be used with anyother carb than the original. Running a cinverted GM unit will give a much better Ignition system. Not just my idea, allot of guys do this.
Now depending on when the 51Merc engine was made, it probably already has the right oil man and Bell housing. Most of these had a B&B pressure plate and the right disk, so it's a bolt in.
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Yeah, I know the bubba distributor is a popular upgrade. He must have somthing goin' on! Now with my Merc 4 bolt manifold, I assumed I would have to get an adapter to run a Rochester 2G. True? Are the EAB heads off of trucks?
 
The early Rochester (like used on 265 and 283 Chevies) bolts right-on the Merc manifold. Check to make sure the throttle butterflies open fully. DD
 
V8COOPMAN said:
The early Rochester (like used on 265 and 283 Chevies) bolts right-on the Merc manifold. Check to make sure the throttle butterflies open fully. DD
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Thanks Coopman! Do you agree with Coopman that the rochester is a good choice. I forgot to inform you that the builder is listing a 3/4 Isky as being installed, 77 series, I believe. Is there a stock ford or an interesting, conservative air breather I can use with the Rochester. Do you kow how much CFM? I suppose these are readily available, and affordable, I hope?
 
Charlie ny said:
Dixie,
I'm back to the fan question.........I've had no luck transferring the photos
of my reworked pulley and hub.....then I read BINXs post and how he did the job....
with photos too. If you haven't read his post yet be sure to find it. His solution is
very straight forward and effective. I did get the same results only with lots more
work. I do recommend the WALKER shroud. I'm using the original Ford split core
radiator, 5 blade fan, and the shroud.
Charlie ny
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Thanks Charlie,
Are you refering to the link he has posted, or one of his own post. I cannot find anythig he posted about crank mounted fans in his archives.
 
dixiedelux said:
Thanks Coopman! Do you agree with Coopman that the rochester is a good choice. I forgot to inform you that the builder is listing a 3/4 Isky as being installed, 77 series, I believe. Is there a stock ford or an interesting, conservative air breather I can use with the Rochester. Do you kow how much CFM? I suppose these are readily available, and affordable, I hope?
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The small, early Chevy models I spoke of were rated at 278 CFM.....a good size for a mild flathead. Click the link below for some comprehensive info. DD

http://www.chevyclassicsclub.com/wp-content/themes/chevyclassicsclub/pdf/tech0213.pdf
 
Dix,
Check out post #25....Binx referenced a link from a long time ago by another
Barner. Jim Pullen is going to assist me in posting my photos and sketch. It might be a
while.
Many ways to get 'er done !
Thanks,
Charlie ny
 
Thanks for the rochester tech link, DD. I'm going to go over the Binx link tonight, Charlie. I have already opened it and there is a bunch of good stuff in there. The responses and help I have received on here has exceeded my expectations. Comparatively, the identical thread died the first day on the H.A.M.B. with 3 or 4 responses. Thanks Ford Barners!
 
Most of the info is correct but not complete. If its truly a mercury motor the flywheel is drilled for a B&B cover. This cover will not work the fingers on the clutch are too long and will interfere with the larger TO bearing. The 1949 or 1950 B&B cover is what you need. These are extremely hard to find. Buy a new flywheel that is drilled for the 10" long clutch (59A) using the 8BA ( 9.5" cover) and a 59A disc will not work only chatter - mercil ? spring mismatch - Bruce Landcaster or Old Ron should be your source. There are a lot of combination that work and they are aware of them. Its easy if you have the correct parts. and No exhaust manifold may not work because the manifold crossover pipe hit the 8RT pump mounts I'm a bad typer but continue your research 36fordguy
 
Less take one issue at a time The adapter housing if you find the cast iron adapter (truck) and starter plate (mercury) flat plate this will bolt up to the 8RT pan - two lower bolts to pan mount. The 8RT pan takes a different oil pickup and screen assembly - Now depending on your oil pump (M15 or M19) so righ here are a few combinations you have to work out depending on the parts you can find 39fordguy
 
I have found that finding a pure 1949 to 1953 mercury or 8BA motor is rare most have been modified along the way so you will find various combination that really did not exist as produced so get familiar with what the parts should look like. Bruce, Ron and fordbarn.com will help you 36fordguy
 
dixiedelux said:
Your link would not go through, Fordy. I believe this is the one; I hope it works:
http://www.mr40s.com/mr.-40-s-stuff.html Sorry! This link doesn't work on my computer
Now, that grill shroud, I have seen frequently. It is the the one, pattern reversed, that is up in the nose of the hood that I havn't seen. Of course I don't regularly look up into that area. This link also has the lourvered inner fenders. I paid only 100-125, sale priced, from Bob Drake. Considering the price of lourvering, the Mr. 40's louvered examples are not that picy compared to Mr. 40's "flat" unit's. I'll check mine at the shop today, but mine seemed to have a lot of contours, making it not conducive to lourving.
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5/1/15 No one makes the sheet metal pieces that fit up into the nose of the hood. I first made a pattern for them out cardboard and then cut each out of 16 ga. sheet metal. 18 ga. will also work. You just tuck them in so they lie flat and use a couple of dabs of silicone glue to hold them in place. It's really easy.
 
Below is an example of another type deflector offered by Drake and others, which effectively serves the same purpose. Maybe a little easier to install, and easily fabricated at home. DD

get-attachment_zpsa2cbeef5.jpg
 
36fordguy said:
Most of the info is correct but not complete. If its truly a mercury motor the flywheel is drilled for a B&B cover. This cover will not work the fingers on the clutch are too long and will interfere with the larger TO bearing. The 1949 or 1950 B&B cover is what you need. These are extremely hard to find.

The early 51 Merc motors thru somewhere in February of 1951 still had the big 1 3/8" 10-spline transmission with the round pattern. If the motor comes with the 49 thru E51 stamped metal half bell and a clutch/flywheel, then it may have the right clutch. If it doesn't come with a half bell or flywheel then it may be easier to get a 9 1/2" flywheel or an 11" and just get it drilled for a 10" Long type. Most machine shops should be able to do that. If it has a Mercury flywheel with 6 evenly spaced PP bolts then you could find a 49 to E51 Merc clutch pressure plate with Borg & Beck number 0988 or 1310 stamped on. Ft Wayne clutch could likely convert the late 51 to 53 PP or a model 10A7 PP to the 49 to E51 Merc PP configuration if asked. The 10" Springflex B&B/Mercury clutch plate with the 1 3/8" 10-spline hub might be the hard part but Ft Wayne clutch could likely fix up one of those too. I still find these old cores on flea-pay now and then but you have to ask for the B&B part number to be sure.
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Back to the engine mods: the truck and Merc heads are low compression, The 8BA is next and the EAB is the heighest CR stock head. This milled for .05-" piston to head clearance cam increase you CR about 1 point. What you must realize is: the factory advertized CR is way off (7.2) in all the years I've been doing this, I've never seen them any where near this.
 
Not sure why sooo many want to stay with the obsolete, hard to find and probably more expensive B&B pressure plate when using a late Merc flywheel, VS switching to a modern, better, cheaper diaphragm pressure plate that uses the same evenly spaced bolt pattern. :confused: They have different finger styles (bent and straight) to accommodate large and small T/O bearings. There are diaphragms that also are direct replacement for several Long p-plate patterns. Seems few are aware that diaphragms have been the clutch of choice for over 40 years, and for several good reasons. Just curious. :)
 
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V8 Bob said:
Not sure why sooo many want to stay with the obsolete, hard to find and probably more expensive the B&B pressure plate when using a late Merc flywheel, VS switching to a modern, better, cheaper diaphragm pressure plate that uses the same evenly spaced bolt pattern. :confused: They have different finger styles (bent and straight) to accommodate large and small T/O bearings. There are diaphragms that also are direct replacement for several Long p-plate patterns. Seems few are aware that diaphragms have been the clutch of choice for over 40 years, and for several good reasons. Just curious. :)
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I guess you are reiterating what you have already reccomended to me:


You can use any Late Ford/Merc car or truck flywheel. Fords used several Long style sizes (9 1/2"/10"/11") while Mercurys used 10" Borg & Becks that use the same bolt pattern as some modern diaphragm (my choice) clutch plates. The disc has to have an 1 3/8" X 10 spline to match your '39 ******. Any good clutch re builder can put together a clutch setup.

I must say Bob after your first and a few other posts, I was beginng to view my project with clarity and somewhere down the line it became muddled to me again. B&B? At first, I interpereted it to be block and bellhousing. But Borg and Beck is what it is supposed to mean, right? Later this evening, I am going to reread the post that were posted during the day, while I was gone. I started to ge lost during 36v/8 post and some of the responses. Very Technical. Maybe I'll go to Van Pelt and look at some illustrations. Tell me: What is the difference between a modern diaphram cluth plate, your choice, and a non- modern style which I think the reference is Long Style?
 
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