replacing rear main seal

pat in Santa Cruz

pat in Santa Cruz

Well-known member
Hi. This is my first post on the V8 forum. I am typically on the Model A forum, but I am helping a guy out with his leaky V8.

The rear main seal on this V8 was installed poorly, with a chunk of the rope missing. Hence, oil all over the place. The aluminum casting that holds the upper seal in place is thoroughly glued in to the block, so I'll have to pull the crank. Is it possible to pull and re install the crank with the rods and pistons still in the block, or should they come out? I do have the engine out of the car, just hoping not to have to do a ring job as well.

thanks
Pat
 
I'd say just be VERY careful keeping all the caps and bearings in order, push pistons up to top, get someone to help support crank as you reinstall it so you don't nick a journal on something.
Just imagine getting half way through and tripping over the tray with all the rod caps lined up in order...
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
I'd say just be VERY careful keeping all the caps and bearings in order, push pistons up to top, get someone to help support crank as you reinstall it so you don't nick a journal on something.
Just imagine getting half way through and tripping over the tray with all the rod caps lined up in order...
Click to expand...

Might want to mark the caps as they come off! Most of the ones I have seen that have been rebuilt have a steel stamp on them. I always steel stamp rods, rod caps and main caps if they are not already stamped. I would also mark the bearing as well with a permanent marker or something (maybe tag them). I would be sure everything is marked so that you can not only ID location but front and back so it goes back just like it came out.
 
hardtimes said:
Hey Ken,
He says that the engine is OUT of car. 59AB...would be '46 to '48, eh ?
Click to expand...

Ha! I missed that . If it were mine id loosen up all the mains or remove them and pull the crank up and with a piece of wood drive the rope seal holder out. Then upon replacement would put a bead of sealastic in the groove.
 
You should be able remove the upper seal and install a new one with out removing the aluminum retainer. You have the engine out, so with the engine up side down remove the rear main cap, loosen the center and front cap main cap, don't remove the bolts all the way. It's easier if the remove the flywheel, screw a long bolt into the flywheel flange in the rear of the crank, hook a chain around the bolt and the front snout on the crank, with a chain fall or an engine crane lift the crank up about 1/2in. Now with one of those chineese fingers you can pull the new seal around the crank. Walt
 
Thank you for the suggestions. I did mark all the caps and bearings, and managed to finagle the crank out. But putting it back in and trying to weave the rods around it looks pretty difficult. It would certainly be easier with them out, but as I said, I hope not to have to re ring the thing as its not that long in the tooth since it was rebuilt. I have pushed all the pistons up as well. Still, the big end of the rods do present a challenge, so I was checking to see if there was a trick to it or if its just good old fashioned patience.
 
I've installed the crank with the pistons and rods in, take some string and tie the rods up to the pan bolts, it's a little easier. Walt
 
No need to replace the rings! Just clean off any carbon buildup and push the pistons out. Clean off any crumbs, re-oil and reinstall. The rings will never know they were ever out!
 
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