Head bolt hole drilled too deep

W

wanchaiwarrior

Junior Member
I'm picking up a project that has been abandoned by my younger, not so mechanical, brother. While changing out the head on my dad's 29, he striped one of the bolt holes. When he went to drill for a heli coil, he drilled all the way through what I assume is the water jacket in the block. Now there is water either in the oil or being sucked into one of the cylinders.

It has been sitting for about 3 years now and I'm wondering how easy this problem is going to be to fix.

Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
 
Much depends on how much damage has been done from sitting (water in the crankcase?, rusty cylinders?)

Take the head off and post some pictures.

Drain the pan tell us what comes out

the helicoil and stud can be "glued" to stop a leak, a crack from the hole, or other damage could mean more has to be done.
 
Thanks. I'll take it apart this weekend and get some pictures.

Is it a safe assumption that drilling out the bottom of the bolt hole leads in to the water jacket? And from there, the water is being pulled into one of the cylinders?
Thanks again.
 
This is what I'm starting with. It was in perfect running condition before it was pulled apart.

Image00023.jpg
 
Having a stud missing will cause a leak from the head warping where its no longer torqued.. the drilled out hole probably exacerbated it. Sealing the hole is not a big problem, but sitting water could be very bad. I would remove the head and pan. You cannot get the water out of the dipper tray (other than lifting the front of the car 20 degrees to drain the tray.) The oil pump could be rusted from sitting water. The pan and tray may have pin holes by now. Once the head and pan are off, you can determine where to go. If there is any sign of water down an open valve, the cover should come off too to see if water went down the oil tubes to the main bearings. Which stud is it? A missing or loose center stud bleeds into the cylinders, a stud along the manifolds can bleed water into the valves if they're open.
 
I was going to ask if that is a magneto, but there is a coil on the firewall. What sort of ignition is that?
 
wanchaiwarrior said:
This is what I'm starting with. It was in perfect running condition before it was pulled apart.

View attachment 20743
Click to expand...

I have to ask, If it was in perfect running condition, why was it pulled apart?
The clip on the head stud holding the ignition: Is that a piece of aluminum stock? This would make it hard to torque the head gasket and keep it there long, as time wore on I could see a gasket leaking compression and /or coolant. You might want to have a machinist check the head for flat while you are repairing studs/stud holes.
 
Wico magneto; has a homemade holddown under a head stud. Coil is present on firewall, but entirely unemployed.
I think Wico should have a clamp collar piece around the bottom to allow timing, and that is missing here. Someone reproduces that widget.
 
The head was removed to install a "B" head, at least that's what I was told. Shame really as it was running like a top when my brother decided to "F" it up.
 
That is a magneto. I will probably leave the magneto in place and remove the coil once I get started on cleaning up the whole engine compartment.
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
Wico magneto; has a homemade holddown under a head stud. Coil is present on firewall, but entirely unemployed.
I think Wico should have a clamp collar piece around the bottom to allow timing, and that is missing here. Someone reproduces that widget.
Click to expand...

Bruce,
Good eye and summary! I have two of those wico mags and the little 'widget' is a kinda horseshoe shaped clamp. The clamp was sold by only one model a parts supplier that I know of, or used to.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top