Single weight or multi grade oil
- Thread starter Divco one
- Start date
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
i use 15/40 with no filter... guess i'm screwed
or
maybe thats why my cars dont drip
Duz Pennzoil, multigrade go BAD, jist sittin' in Vermin's hibernating power plant? Gregg put it in a year & a half ago. When Kyle's in my garage, he WHIRRS the starter, to see if my Optima's still up.
Bill W.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
i use 15/40 with no filter... guess i'm screwed
or
maybe thats why my cars dont drip
Well, then, so am I.
Mitch//pa
BANNED
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
NOOOOT EVEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IT HASN'T EVEN BEEN RUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dad CHEEP.
maxandmickey
Member
10w 40 is what I use.model a loves any oil.
theHIGHLANDER
Senior Member
Don't use synthetic for the first running of the engine. You need to speak to your builder about that, but the reason I mention it is that it will inhibit seating of the rings. New ring material and it's required finishes actually seat very quickly. In some cases a matter of minutes. That's all I have for this one, and I too run Rotella. Can I get in the "screwed" club?
Royce P
Senior Member
A common misconception.
Non detergent oil is something I would not use in my lawn mower which, by the way, has no filtration either. Detergent oil keeps oil residue such as paraffin and sludge from building up on every surface inside your engine. It is superior in every way to an equal grade of Non Detergent oil, regardless of whether the engine has any means of filtering the oil.
Non detergent oil is something I would not use in my lawn mower which, by the way, has no filtration either. Detergent oil keeps oil residue such as paraffin and sludge from building up on every surface inside your engine. It is superior in every way to an equal grade of Non Detergent oil, regardless of whether the engine has any means of filtering the oil.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
I once had a 62 F 600 14' box van with a 6+ -1 rear. I calculated the engine had twice the wear for the mileage on the clock. Anyway it was a 6cyl with a bad rear main leak. Short trips of few miles would use a qt or more. I was using 10-30. I went to a farm sale and bought a 55 Gal. drum of 30#. I began feeding the 30# into this leaker and guess what, The leaking was reduced to about half what it was. I was about as happy as I could be under the circumstances. Moral, If your Mod A has a bad leak, use 30# or 40#, it will stay longer. Otherwise, I would use a modern multi grade oil.
Now i'll tell you of a 53 Flathead was keeping the streets wet with oil until we acquired 10 gals of USED 10# vacuum pump oil. The Vacuum pump oil did the same! It cut the consumption in half or better. Who'd a thunk it? Money? what was that? We'd take and try anything that was free.
Terry
Now i'll tell you of a 53 Flathead was keeping the streets wet with oil until we acquired 10 gals of USED 10# vacuum pump oil. The Vacuum pump oil did the same! It cut the consumption in half or better. Who'd a thunk it? Money? what was that? We'd take and try anything that was free.
Terry
Patrick L.
Well-known member
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
Patrick L.: Probably true but I've been under the impression that a detergent oil used in a non-detergent engine that HASN"T been cleaned out will loosen the "crud, etc" that's built up over the years.
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Thats not really what we were talking about, but, I've always heard that too. I've found it to be an old wives tale.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
In an engine that's all sludged up, The most it can take is the surface area or the contact zone. Detergents in oil are not solvents. Detergents are not a soap. They are agents, Chelates (Originally, Ethymine ,Diamine, Tetracetic acid SP) that hold the dirt in minute suspension. This allows it to be flushed out and not gather in the bottom of the oil pan.
Terry
Terry