Show Dash Guage Panel

Hmmm...indeed.

POS switch, repop ammeter (Model T?), case of speedo has not been painted, ignition plate is 1928 style ON-OFF.

Certainly not show quality in any respect.

Joe
 
This is why it good to surf the barn. If you didn't know any better you would think this guy knew what he was talking about. Thanks for letting all of us who don't know any better, know the difference. Good eye, all of you.
 
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He even admits the dash panel is new. 14 spelling errors. 100% feedback.
Nice keys.:rolleyes:

You know there's a buck to be made at every turn. You just have to appeal to the uneducated market....it is significant.
 
Check comments on feedback. Some of those that did business with him can't spell any better than he does.
 
I, for one, have trouble telling difference between Repro. parts & original parts because I'm pretty much a novice.
How do you tell the difference between repro. & orig. 1930 cowl lights, teacup tail lights, front spring perches, door handles, bumpers, etc.? It would be a GREAT HELP to me if some of you who really know their stuff would start a thread of comparison photos with brief hints of key things to look for.
 
Mitch Bunkin in PA said:
I, for one, have trouble telling difference between Repro. parts & original parts because I'm pretty much a novice.
How do you tell the difference between repro. & orig. 1930 cowl lights, teacup tail lights, front spring perches, door handles, bumpers, etc.? It would be a GREAT HELP to me if some of you who really know their stuff would start a thread of comparison photos with brief hints of key things to look for.
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I am right there with you.
 
One of the best seminars I've ever seen was done by Mick Isbell at a MARC national. It was done with slides showing an original and a reproduction of the same part on the same slide. Mick pointed out the differences in the repo part and how to ID an original. I'd love to see this done in printed form and included in the standards.
 
I bet when the buyer gets this and tries to install it and the screw holes don't fit he is going to be livid. Anyone who is doing a "SHOW" car would know this is a repo POS.
 
Mitch Bunkin in PA said:
I, for one, have trouble telling difference between Repro. parts & original parts because I'm pretty much a novice.
How do you tell the difference between repro. & orig. 1930 cowl lights, teacup tail lights, front spring perches, door handles, bumpers, etc.? It would be a GREAT HELP to me if some of you who really know their stuff would start a thread of comparison photos with brief hints of key things to look for.
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This is the very "something" I have said over & over for the past few years that a webpage (site) devoted to showing the differences on each item would be an asset to the hobby. It kinda fell on deaf ears with Shelly, ...but maybe it's time has come. How this could be orchestrated would be that someone would submit some detailed photos of an item and then we would take their photo and show the areas to look at that would disprove a repro from an original.

As to starting a single thread to show it all, I personally believe this will need to be much deeper than that. I am of the opinion it really needs to be one thread per item (part number?), --or at least one thread per Judging Standard's Area.

Since you mentioned 1930 repro cowl lamps, let me start by saying I have never seen reproduction 1930 cowl lamps however in the picture you can tell what the differences is if you could read a narrative and the author of the narrative can point you at what to look for. The biggest thing that I think will be a distraction (at least for me) on this would be the follow-up posters. Those would be the ones that post in the thread something like "I had a pair just like that given to me when I just started restoring my 1929 pick-up 20 years ago and I thought they were for a Dodge or something else." Then you can only imagine the follow-up to that. That is why I think there would need to be a few moderators to delete content out that was not relevant and keep each area clean and factual.
 

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Here is one example of repro vs. original parts. The radiator shell is one part that really stands out because of it's size and being out front. The shiney one is the repro and the dull shell is an original. I bought the repro back about 1995 and it's ven better than many I've seen since.

Notice the peak in front of the radiator cap opening and you sill see the original is more pointed. Also notice the offset around the opening and you will see the original is close to 90* at the bend, where the repro is closer to 60* bend. Basically the original parts have sharper crisper lines and bends than repro parts. Also notice the mounting holes are round on the original and oval on the repro. The mounting holes on most repro engine side pans are also oval, instead of the original round holes.

When it comes to instrument panels the bottom mounting holes don't line up, and I still don't know why that can't be fixed after all these years. Also the repro panels are shiney chrome instead of buttler nickel.

I bought a mint restored original instrument panel from Rockhill Will for my friend's 31 widebed PU.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
This is the very "something" I have said over & over for the past few years that a webpage (site) devoted to showing the differences on each item would be an asset to the hobby...
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Well...I am planning to do this for a retirement project, but that will be another year and a half or so. I've set up the website and format here...

Originalmodelaparts.com/

...but haven't done anything in quite a while. Bob Johnson did me a huge favor by doing scans of the parts book, and I have offers of help proofing and formatting. I need to get back to the project and make some progress. If I didn't already have a life, I could spend a lot more time on it... :-)

Page One has some content to illustrate the format. The part numbers in blue link to pages with photos for those parts.

I guess it is no longer possible to get to the old Fordbarn thread that Pluck started in May 2009? http://66.39.52.174/aforum/messages3/551719.html worked for a while after the new FB started, but doesn't now.

Joe
 
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JoeWay said:
Well...I am planning to do this for a retirement project, but that will be another year and a half or so. I've set up the website and format here...

Originalmodelaparts.com/

...but haven't done anything in quite a while. Bob Johnson did me a huge favor by doing scans of the parts book, and I have offers of help proofing and formatting. I need to get back to the project and make some progress. If I didn't already have a life, I could spend a lot more time on it... :-)
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I understand totally but that is a great start!!
 
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