1953Master Cly Question ????

BILL WZOREK

Well-known member
If I were to switch to Double Master cylinder :eek: 0n My 1953 Mainline, what year would I want so it would bolt directly in :confused::confused:
 
If I were to switch to Double Master cylinder :eek: 0n My 1953 Mainline, what year would I want so it would bolt directly in :confused::confused:
go to a napa store they gan show you in there book different masters. you will more than not need to make an plate adaptor or call ECI they will have what you need goodluk.
 
Bill,
If your MC looks like the 4 bolt unit you might be able to use a 69 Mustang unit. Both are speced at 1" bore. If you want to go with it I have one that you are welcomed to. I took it off the truck because it was short on volume. Let me know.
 

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If your car is still drum/drum, make sure the dual master cylinder is a drum/drum unit. Otherwise, you will have to add residual pressure valves to the system.
 
Yep just make sure you get a drum to drum unit they have the ris valves built in. You can't use built in valves and external both. It will not work only use one or the other prefered built in valves.
 
Most residual valves, whether in drum/drum or disc/drum masters, became obsolete by 1975, with some gone starting around 1970. You really have to check the master you are using for internal residuals. If needed, add an external 10 lb residual to each drum axle, regardless of master cylinder location.
Using a disc/drum master for drum/drum systems is better for three reasons:

1st, they are much more plentiful, as drum/drum became obsolete about 1975.

2nd, There is no mistake in knowing how to plumb, as the larger chamber ALWAYS goes to the fronts.

3rd, the system is set up for a later disc upgrade without changing the master.

Always try to get a master cylinder from a power-assisted vehicle, as the primary push rod bore is usually deeper, allowing for an easier and safer installation of the push rod on a custom manual system.
 
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