No spark - where to start!!

2

29 A-MAN

Junior Member
I have a 29 A. Drove and stored for the winter. Now has no spark. tried whole new tune up kit and still nothing. What to do next?? Any help is appreciated!
 
I helped a friend with the same problem. The points were adjusted too wide and were not closing, and thus unable to open and cause the spark. If that is ok get a volt meter and see if you have 6 volts at the points and then 6 volts at both sides of the points when they are closed. Did the problem occur before you installed the new tuneup kit or after?

Charlie Stephens
 
start by looking at the ammeter when you turn on the ignition switch. Does in go to a slight discharge? It should. If so, go under the hood and with the ignition off, you should have 6+ volts on both sides of the coil and the block in the firewall. If you're missing voltage at any of those points start looking for a loose wire. If you have voltage at all these places, put a piece of paper between the points, turn on the ignition and see if you have voltage on the point arm. If you have voltage there also, I generally jump across the two sides of the block in the firewall (to take the ammeter out of the equation). If you've got voltage at all these places, look at the switch, and if the points are closing.
 
It's surprising how often this problem is asked on this forum. Follow Charlie's advice on checking the points and voltage. Then trace the circuit from known voltage source (battery), thru switch, etc, etc. Check wires as you go to ensure they are not frayed/grounded. Check you have good battery ground/ clean terminals.
 
Issue was there before the new parts. I cant even get any spark when i put a screw driver between the points.
 
(QUOTE)
I helped a friend with the same problem. The points were adjusted too wide and were not closing, and thus unable to open and cause the spark. If that is ok get a volt meter and see if you have 6 volts at the points and then 6 volts at both sides of the points when they are closed. Did the problem occur before you installed the new tuneup kit or after?

Charlie Stephens((QUOTE)



to make a correction to post #2.. you will have 6v to the point arm open and no voltage when the points are closed as it should be ground if the points contacts are making a good connection....


the points are fed 6v from the coil through the ignition switch to the points..

this wiring diagram might be helpful
 

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stewwolfe said:
start by looking at the ammeter when you turn on the ignition switch. Does in go to a slight discharge? It should. If so, go under the hood and with the ignition off, you should have 6+ volts on both sides of the coil and the block in the firewall. If you're missing voltage at any of those points start looking for a loose wire. If you have voltage at all these places, put a piece of paper between the points, turn on the ignition and see if you have voltage on the point arm. If you have voltage there also, I generally jump across the two sides of the block in the firewall (to take the ammeter out of the equation). If you've got voltage at all these places, look at the switch, and if the points are closing.
Click to expand...
Minor correction to your first sentence. If the engine happened to stop with the points open you will not get a slight discharge when you turn on the ignition switch.

Charlie Stephens
 
johnbuckley said:
Follow this logical flow chart as it appears on p2. Never failed me yet!
(Beware, sometimes the ign sw has been re wired to be between ammeter and coil instead of between coil and points.)
Click to expand...

I have a problem with step number 3. Ever try to unscrew an old pop out cable from the distributor?

I would rather take note of the rotor position and remove the bottom plate, then struggle with the cable and lostening the head nut to remove the clamp. But that is just my opinion.
 
So i replaced the red ignition switch wire and the lower distributor plate wire, and wouldnt you know it fired right up! Only issue now is that my buddy bumped off the battery cable while it was running and the car died (which it should, since i didnt have it tightened all of the way--oops). Now I have very little spark or no spark at all again. I replaced all the wires to the junction block last night and still nothing. What am i missing???
 
Want to find "the" problem?
Want to find "what" you are missing?
Want to quit changing wires, never knowing which wire solved the problem?
Want to quit changing points, coils, condensers, etc.?
Want to learn something?

One Simple & Quick Way:

1. Go to Mitch's no. 9 reply & get a similar wiring diagram.

2. If you do not have these, please go to Wal-Mart to buy:

A. An under $10.00 "non" digital GE Multi-meter, i.e., one with a swinging needle; &,

B. A yellow marker.

3. Start at the source, i.e., the battery to read voltage between positive (+) & negative (-) battery posts, & a continuity reading between the ground & the chassis, engine etc.

4. Follow the wires on the diagram checking for continuity & after checking, mark each good wire & good connection in yellow.

5. When you find wire(s) & connection(s) that have no continuity, you have located one (1) of the problems ........... correct same & just keep going until everything electrical that did "not" work checks out.

Cars that do not run often & are in storage in humid areas are known to acquire oxidation at electrical connection, thus interrupting electrical flow.

Just hope this helps to learn very simple & quick electrical navigation from point A to point B.
 
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29 A-MAN said:
So i replaced the red ignition switch wire and the lower distributor plate wire, and wouldnt you know it fired right up! Only issue now is that my buddy bumped off the battery cable while it was running and the car died (which it should, since i didnt have it tightened all of the way--oops). Now I have very little spark or no spark at all again. I replaced all the wires to the junction block last night and still nothing. What am i missing???
Click to expand...

Poor connection to ground is my quess.
 
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