I guess its been the norm for many years of welding the old crankshaft to counterbalance the engine, is it overkill to just go and buy a new scat crank instead? Can the welds be trusted in the rebuild? Did anyone ever hear of a problem with the weld?
I guess its been the norm for many years of welding the old crankshaft to counterbalance the engine, is it overkill to just go and buy a new scat crank instead? Can the welds be trusted in the rebuild? Did anyone ever hear of a problem with the weld?
Hey 1929,
You can still buy the last crank that Henry made, in 1932 , for his B engine. That crank is already with integral counterweights from the Ford factory. These cranks are FULL size and available and a commonly called a C crank. I would and have preferred this crank over the scat which has B sized mains, but A size rod journals. I think that unless you are going to run your engine at the salt flats at very high rpms, that Henry's C crank , even drilled correctly for full oil pressure, is as good as WE have it right now. I will add that I have a C drilled crank in my present B short block build, that used to live at Bonneville, until the rear flange was snapped off of the crank. The crank was welded with new flange and I'm pleased to be able to use it again. Those boys that run at the salt use these A/B engines harder than any of us guys will. Hope this helps you out in your thinking. Of course if you are set on A sized rod throws, you can have the full sized B throws cut down..lol
Dan Price counter weights are NOT Swaged on, they are shrunk on, big difference.
SCAT makes a counterbalanced Model A crank with the correct 1.625" main journals; http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/product-pages/ford_vintage/crankshafts/
You are correct regarding the scat A crank.
1929 did not mention whether he wanted an A or B crank. He wanted counterweights and my mind went right to model B/C cranks with integral counterweights, because that's what I use. I figured that maybe 1929 did not know of this counterweighted crank. That said, if you want a scat to install in a B block, then I stand on what I wrote regarding that crank having B size mains and A size rod throws.
So could the opinions be that maybe iam better off getting a new crank to be on the safer side? I do know it will cost another $1000 on a rebuild, and why not cause Iam sure this rebuild will outlast me.
What I ment was $1000 for the crank if you take away the $500 for the labor on the old crank, instead of spending $500, spend another $1000 for a new one that's about $1500Hey 1929,
Yup, why not...it is your money, eh!
I'd appreciate knowing just where you get the 'new crank' for $1000, though ?
Last new scat that I saw ready to be installed from the bench , had a price tag of rounded up....$1600. That did not take into account fitment and/or bearings.
BTW..it is interesting news that scat will cut a crank to whatever specs needed. I'm thinking immediately of Tods 5 main block!
Just what information , other than rod/main size , will be needed ? Maybe five main journals, six crankshaft flange holes , two locating pins , all for B size block ?? Hardened surface, drilled..anything elseNever ordered one.