Flywheel Shims Q.....

Thanks to all. One more specific question. Do you use sealant on the gasket or depend on the two flat, clean surfaces and the gasket alone?
 
RockHillWill said:
Harley, Brent.

I did grind both sides. From my random 'granite block' encounters, If I found a 'good/uncracked/unrepaired' housing, I more often than not found small undulated uneven ness but small in nature. (.001 - .002"). Because the block side is the largest in 'diameter', I sat it on the Blanchard table and looked for even the minutest gap with a feeler gauge and using misc. assorted feeler gauges I would put them in the gaps. I found that the grinder that was accessible to me had a strong enough magnet that it would pull down hard enough to erase the gaps if I did not reinforce them. By inserting the feeler gauges my feeling was that the top side would not be under any stress when grinding the top side. In doing it this way, I felt that when turned over, that side was flat with no stresses and subsequent grinding could be counted on to be both flat and parallel and stress free.

I have only done this nine times because I am not a 'motor' man, but after the first six times doing it this way, I have quite checking altogether (when using the .012" grocery bags paper). For the reason that Brett states, I do NOT use sealant of any kind as well.

Again, just as a side note: If you are not doing this for 'Fine Point' or specific about originality, just buy two similar lower gaskets and cut the upper 'shims' from the same gasket material. ALL the bolts are the same size equating to the same torque. Once you feel that you have addressed the housing flatness, this should be a no-brainer for the shim issue.

Again, just thoughts from an old man!
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Yes, for someone who has the time to do/check both sides, that is fine.

My experiences are the side where the clutch housing is attached is very well supported in the full circumference whereas the cylinder case (block) side is not as well supported with bolts. Again, time is money so the deficiency is usually found on the cylinder case side which is why we grind that side only. Ultimately this operation is done for transmission input shaft alignment to be in the same plane as the engine crankshaft.
 
Rock, I would think the bellhousing side of the flywheel housing would have the most support for the first grind. Did you mean that the bellhousing side of the flywheel housing goes down on the magnetic grinder table for the first cut?
 
oldbike99 said:
so if i am understanding this process correctly, one should bolt the flywheel housing to the block with the four lower bolts, including the gasket and sealant, and then check the housing. Then use the shims to move the top of the housing in or out. If so, does one, at any time, disturb the lower four bolts?
Thank you in advance,
paul
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no.
 
Meaure the thickness of the housing gasket first and get shims to that thickness. That will put you pretty close. As noted previously, there are different gasket thicknesses.
I rub some #2 Permatex into the gasket around the camshaft bore area to prevent leakage there. Not necessary elsewhere. Works for me.
 
oldbike99 said:
Which part of the question, or maybe both, is the answer " no" to? Thank you in advance.
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You only asked the one question Mr Bike.

Which is "If so, does one, at any time, disturb the lower four bolts?"

Answer, "NO"


The top two bolts, with shims, can set both sides, of the flywheel housing, and also top and botton in relationship to how many shims are used, and where.

As I said what works for shims is to use old main shims, front, and centers, and cut one side off.

You have to use a small pry bar to lift the housing to slide the shims under.

thanks,

Herm.
 
colin1928 said:
Beer cans here are 0.004" thick and I drink as many as need to get the shims correct
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Hey colin,
Good idea that :) ! Without an 'indicator' guage, I miked the gasket(s) at about .012. I have a THICK aluminum turkey cooking tray nearby, so it measured at .006 and doubled it came out to .012 !
My question is ...is aluminum at right shim thickness too soft to use for shims ? Another advantage, IMO, is that I made the bolt holes thru center of these alum shims, so that the shim completely encircles the bolts for a better (?) support surface. Any counter indications to this thought process ? As Herm says, used pry bar to carefully install.

BTW...why not use lock washers instead of 'wireing' ? Makes more sense to me to use lockwashers. How much torque (for consistency and gasket crush) for these six flywheel cover bolts :confused: IMO, good tip from Herm also to let situation sit 24 hrs and recheck work.


Final comment on 'gaskets'. May as well use Wills research results, concerning paper bag thickness for gasket consideration. I have two 'factory' flywhl housing gaskets. One was a total waste of someones time, and my $, to cut/mail to me, as this pos wasn't even CLOSE to a fit ! The second gasket was form different type/quality of paper and fit PERFECTLY !
Thanks Will for sharing ;)
 
hardtimes said:
BTW...why not use lock washers instead of 'wireing' ? Makes more sense to me to use lockwashers. How much torque (for consistency and gasket crush) for these six flywheel cover bolts :confused: IMO, good tip from Herm also to let situation sit 24 hrs and recheck work.
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I don't see any harm in lockwashers. For that matter go to the auto store and pick up some blue Loctite - and support my brethren in Seabrook, NH where the stuff is made.

When my first rebuilt engine arrived assembled - the installer had used modern nyloc type nuts to replace the odd sized connecting rod rod hex nuts.

"Wazzis?" I inquired.

"Just trying to make it easy for you later when you peel your first shims." he says.

"If you REALLY want those nuts, I'll give you a can full of them left over from jobs."

Not sure - I took my 8 nuts back.

They're still in the can somewhere.

Joe K
 
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