Tips For Model A's

Don't get rid of your spare parts...I've given away a ton of parts (and probably will continue to do so) only to find out later that I could use them on the next project that comes along. Trading parts is a great way to keep the cost of restoration down while meeting the guys on the forum.
 
forever4 said:
Then order a new muffler. :eek:
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Be very thankful if your mate shares your love of old cars and is willing to crawl under them to help you.
 
always sell your A for a few dollars more then you paid........... brag to the wife as to how smart
you are and she will love you for it!

better then being told no, when you go to buy your next A......................
 
Dan Partain said:
For those who haven't seen this before - To chase dirty or rusty threads, grind bolts with the same thread and run them into the holes that need cleaning. The sharp leading edge of the threads will do a pretty good job, and not ruin a good tap from grease/dirt combo. Regular hardware bolts work good for this and are cheap to replace when the threads get worn. I try to not use good A bolts if I can help it.
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I've been doing this for years. Nowadays, I spend a little time getting the best edge on the treads as I can, then heat the bolt to bright red hot, almost yellow. Then drop it into a METAL container of oil.
This case hardens the bolt so long as it is a reasonable quality one in the first place and not one of those muck metal Chinese ones. You'll get much longer life out of it but makes sharpening it with a file pretty hard on the file (grind only).;)
 
Marshall57 said:
Next tip.
When changing out an oil Pan or an engine, you will put a quart down the distributor hole and then use the rest of the five quarts to fill it up.
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I know this is old but I am changing my head to a Snyders high compression head and have mine all apart right now. So what you are saying is that after I put the head on, (drained all oil and new pan gasket) to put a QUART of oil down the dizzy hole, then the 4 quarts in the filler spout? Like most of you said:
"read, read, read, ask questions, read some more." So that's the plan!
Thanks,
Kevin
 
Take lots of pictures with your digital camera. Pictures, the way everything is now - everything. Pictures, when you take things apart. Pictures, when you put it back together. You can't take enough pictures. When your mind gets foggy - you will be so glad you took those pictures. My mind get foggy a lot and pictures have saved me time and time again. Have fun, Bill
 
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kevinwalshe said:
I know this is old but I am changing my head to a Snyders high compression head and have mine all apart right now. So what you are saying is that after I put the head on, (drained all oil and new pan gasket) to put a QUART of oil down the dizzy hole, then the 4 quarts in the filler spout? Like most of you said:
"read, read, read, ask questions, read some more." So that's the plan!
Thanks,
Kevin
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This is for when the engine has NO oil period. The quart down the distributor fills the oil galley and dipper trays, to prevent a "dry" start.
Sorry missed the all apart oil pan off.
 
I always install slide terminals in the headlamp and horn wires. In the event you need to replace the radiator you won't have to discombobulate the headlights and horn.

Crimp them on the wires with about 1 inch between them so you can still fish them through the conduits.
 
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When visiting the pub try to park facing down hill, or if it's flat reverse into parking bay and make sure you have a clear exit path. That way it makes bump starting easier when after a few drinks you realise you've got a flat battery because you left the lights on.
Oh and fit a battery master switch.
 
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