40 Oil Line Leaking:

40ford

40ford

Well-known member
The oil line that comes from filter to the front of engine appears to be leaking where it is connected below the distributor.I guess no one reproduces these lines?Can I just remove the whole system and plug.I am not sure if it will hurt to loosen the three head bolts to remove cannistor?Anyone know by chance what size plugs I need?Can I just use the bolt in the front after I remove the line?
 
'40......I had a similar problem, but my line goes from the oil canister to the rear of the engine through a bolt holding the fuel pump stand to intake manifold. I went to NAPA and they made up a stainless flex oil line to the exact length and I installed last Fall. Not a drop leaked until late October storage !

Give it a try, but it would be a longer flex line.

Mike
 
Mike...The oil line that is leaking on mine goes to the front of block and has some kind of special fitting that has a bolt through it???I guess I net to just take the line off and see what can be made!
 
Something like this banjo fitting? DD

193858


194701
 
40ford said:
The oil line that comes from filter to the front of engine appears to be leaking where it is connected below the distributor.I guess no one reproduces these lines?Can I just remove the whole system and plug.I am not sure if it will hurt to loosen the three head bolts to remove cannistor?Anyone know by chance what size plugs I need?Can I just use the bolt in the front after I remove the line?
Click to expand...

I think you can just remove that fitting on the front cover and install a regular 5/16 bolt like rest of the bolts on the cover. Remove the line at the back of the block and install a 1/4 inch pipe plug. I think if you remove the 3 bolts that hole the filter to the head and put some sealer on the threads and torque them back down you'll be all right. Walt
 
Don't over tighen the banjo bolt it's weak with the hole through it. yes new washers may solve it.... or if you take the system off, don't use the that bolt it's to long. ....OLD....BILL
 
You can simply remove that special bolt and install a proper hex head bolt in its place.
There should be no issue removing the three cylinder head nuts and reinstalling them.
No one reproduces the oil filter lines for 1940.
 
I drilled near the top of the timing cover and tapped a 1/8th pipe thread and ran my oil filter return line to that - puts oil on top of the cam gear and no more leaks.
 
Fram made the output line. Copper washers on both sides of the special fitting.
 

Attachments

  • Fram oil filter output flex line.JPG
    Fram oil filter output flex line.JPG
    61 KB · Views: 30
It's funny to see Coopman's illustration, as mine is the same except the canister is mounted at the rear of head and line goes through fuel pump stand.

I also bought a FRAM NOS stock unit just to have as spare and it too shows everything mounted to the rear. I wonder which came first ?

The NAPA line I had made up did not leak a drop. I stored it in late October and we'll see how it shapes up this Spring when I take it out.

Mike
 
Thanks V8COOPMAN ,that is the exact setup I have on my car.I have not taken off yet so I am not sure if it is the line that mounts on the banjo fitting or where it mounts at the bolt?
 
V8COOPMAN said:
Something like this banjo fitting? DD

193858


194701
Click to expand...

Very interesting, if you read the instructions this is a procedure to move the oil return for the fuel pump mount to the distributor mount. (A) is the instructions for removing an existing fuel pump mount line. All the kit included was the new hose and some hardware to mount it.
 
mike42 said:
It's funny to see Coopman's illustration, as mine is the same except the canister is mounted at the rear of head and line goes through fuel pump stand.

I also bought a FRAM NOS stock unit just to have as spare and it too shows everything mounted to the rear. I wonder which came first ?

The NAPA line I had made up did not leak a drop. I stored it in late October and we'll see how it shapes up this Spring when I take it out.

Mike
Click to expand...

If you have the correct filter and line, the filter should be mounted to the front of the cylinder head. The line to the fuel pump stand was the first design of two.
 
Kube said:
If you have the correct filter and line, the filter should be mounted to the front of the cylinder head. The line to the fuel pump stand was the first design of two.
Click to expand...

And it appears that this kit was a way to modify the first design into the second. Any idea for the change? I have read there was an issue with the valley oil getting "burnt" when any additional oil was added. But, that seems a little hard to believe on the surface of it. It must have been something significant enough for them to not only change the design but to also develop at mod kit to upgrade the original design.
 
JSeery said:
And it appears that this kit was a way to modify the first design into the second. Any idea for the change? I have read there was an issue with the valley oil getting "burnt" when any additional oil was added. But, that seems a little hard to believe on the surface of it. It must have been something significant enough for them to not only change the design but to also develop at mod kit to upgrade the original design.
Click to expand...

I read somewhere that the reason for the change was the proximity to the blowby vent was causing excessive oil loss, apparently confirmed by oily under hood surfaces.
 
ford38v8 said:
I read somewhere that the reason for the change was the proximity to the blowby vent was causing excessive oil loss, apparently confirmed by oily under hood surfaces.
Click to expand...

That sounds more reasonable to me. But then the question why not just use the oil pan like the earlier styles?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top