Y block start up oiling question not oil

[37 Coupe]

Okay so after 58 years of Model A and Flathead Ford engines I am finally ready to move o to a Y block. So my question is the engine has sat for a long time but is free and nothing different than what I have done in the past except from what I have read rocker arm oiling. Is there a way to tell if oiling is not plugged before I start and ruin rockers or will they just be noisy proving engine needs gone over anyway. It is in a "55 Thunderbird and is supposed to be a 292 if original but I have been told it is a 312. Also what I have read it is almost impossible to tell in car and not out and torn down..Thanks for any tips.

 

[GLAmes]

I sacrificed a distributor and made a pre-oiler for mine. What I didn't know is that the oil is routed through passages in the camshaft so you won't get oil through all the rockers at the same time. The crankshaft has to be rotated. The lesson only cost me about a day and a couple of head gaskets.

 

[dmsfrr]

With the valve covers off pour some (high zinc) motor oil over the rocker arms. That will help until you get it started.
With the valve covers off and the engine running you should be able to see oil coming out around each rocker arm, and the overflow tube at the right-hand end of each rocker shaft.
Squirt some oil into the spark plug holes and rotate it a couple times before trying to start.

There are casting numbers and date codes cast into the metal of the block that will give you a good idea of what the engine is. The block casting number should be just above the oil filter.
http://ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm

If it's a US built 312 it will have an aspirin size dot on the rear flange of the crankshaft, look up between the engine block and flywheel/flexplate. You'll likely have to rotate the engine to find it.
A remote start switch is handy.

 

[paul2748]

You can see if its oiling ok by removing the distributor and using a 1/4 drive deep 1/4 inch socket with an extension to put on the drive shaft. Spin it counterclockwise. You can use a speeder handle or an electric drill. Be sure to tape the socket to the extension so no mishap can occur.

 

[miker98038]

All the above is correct. But if it was running without oil, there’s probably a lot of dry and baked gunk under the valve covers. If it looks normal, just dry, that’s a good sign after years of sitting. If it’s full of gunk, oiling or not, the next step is to drop and clean the pan before it clogs the oil pick up. Once the pans off, check the main bearing caps. That’s the defining thing on a 312 (unless you turned the mains down, like my 320cid 292).

All y blocks are 312’s when for sale.

 

[57Fordor]

All y blocks are 312’s when for sale.

Ain't that the truth.

 

[37 Coupe]

All the information above so helpful and educational and reassuring as no baked on gunk,very clean looking sitting for 10 years at least. Thank you to all. At 76 years old really great so far going a whole new direction and learning about a different engine.Probably a lot more questions to go like carb rebuilders etc.Also it is a 3 speed overdrive so will have to see what it needs.
Thanks to all responses.

 

[dmsfrr]

... '55 Thunderbird ...
... really great so far going a whole new direction and learning about a different engine. Probably a lot more questions to go like carb rebuilders etc. ...

Ford made significant improvements each of the three years, '55, '56 & '57.
While similar; the original electrical, ignition and carburetors are nearly one-year-only items.
These individual parts from one year won't necessarily mix well with parts from another. Upgrades from '55/'56 parts to '57+ are very possible and even desirable in some cases but may involve swapping more parts than initially expected, to keep year-matching / compatible parts together.

http://www.portholeauthority.com/thunderbirdETC/tbird/tbirddesc.html

Carburetor questions?
Luckily there are resident experts here on this forum. scicala being the first one that comes to mind.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/member.php?u=5934

 

[KULTULZ]

!!! IMO !!! ​

The LAST thing one would want to do is DRY START an engine that has been sitting.

The pump needs to be spun with a quality oil pressure gauge attached to know if the pump is working while hand cranking the crankshaft.

First, I would remove the spark plugs and spray some lubricant into the cylinders (sparingly to free the rings and lubricate the walls) and put the plugs back in. Let it set for a week, remove the plugs again and spin the pump while slowly turning the crank (by hand).

The 1955 FYB has a cross-drilled cam oil supply journal that supplies oil to the rocker arm shaft(s) at certain positions. You need to turn the crank slowly until you see (hopefully) oil at the rocker arms and stop.

After that is established, keep turning the crank while spinning the pump to ensure the complete crank assy is lubricated.

Again, IMO... ... if proper pressure is established to use a hi-zinc oil (example - VALVOLINE VR-1) to fire and let run. If all is well, drop and refill with a quality high detergent street engine oil.

Then you can go about an IGN SERVICE and valve adjustments.

ANOTHER KULTULZ EDIT -

Photos Added Showing early/late cam center bearing styles -