What to look out for??

asapguy

asapguy

Senior Member
In the next couple weeks I plan to install the rebuilt eng. & ****** in my wife's 55 T-bird. It's been apart since 98 when I pulled the motor & ****** & had them overhauled. I've restored two Model A's since pulling the T-bird apart & want to get it running. I've got the eng. compartment ready to paint. The Fordomatic & torque converter need fluids. Should the fluid be added before install?? I've been told to use Dexron (GM) fluid after the rebuild, that it is superior to Type F (Ford). Also I need to adj. the valves on the Y block. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Perry Snohomish Wa.
 
Add the fluids after it is in place. If there is any issue at all it is much easier to do what you got to do without having to worry about fluid going everywhere. Get a good zink additive oil or diesel oil for the engine. Check with the transmission rebuilder for the type of fluid to use. If the ****** is still off the engine pull the torque converter and lube up the seal. After it is set in put the oil in the engine and then prime it up with a drill motor turning the oil pump rotating the engine by hand while doing this. I like to leave the valve covers off to see that oil is getting to the top end. Next fill the ******, crank the engine over with the plugs out to get fluid up into the converter and top off.

Adjusting the valves is a matter of turning the engine by hand and doing them one at a time. Watch the intake valve for the cylinder you're on, when it closes you are at TDC for that piston, lash them to 18 - 19 thousand.
 
Y Block Valve Adjustment
TDC.
1 I. E
2 I
4 E
5 E
7 I

180*
4 I
5 I
6 E
8 E
270*
¾ turn
2 E
3 I E
6 I
7 E
8 I
 
The first chart is for a stock or mild cam. This one is for a wild cam, or any other engine.

To Adjust Valves;

Always turning clockwise facing the motor,

Set Intake when same cylinders exhaust starts to open,

Set exhaust when intake just closes.
 
There are several ways to do it - based on whether you have the little chart at hand - or only the firing order as shown on the intake manifold. You could also do each cylinder in turn as it reaches TDC - takes two full revolutions and adjusting a pair of rockers every 90° of rotation.

The contact surfaces on the old rockers are typically worn to concave - and using a flat feeler guage will often result in the lash being about .001 to .0015 loose. After discovering this - I checked with a dial indicator - I then "calibrated" my feeler by going down a size to accomodate the wear.

Unlike a lot of other engines - the Y can run with the covers off and not make too much mess. After you have adjusted the valves - running it with the covers off will give you a good "listen" to the valve train. When you've got one that clatters more than others - it can be found by dampening the rockers one at a time with a gloved finger until it silences. might need a bit more of a turn. If you've got a rocker that is noisy and it keeps coming back (won't stay adjusted) - you may need to have the type of adjuster screw with the locknut.
 
Thanks guys for all the input. Having 6 Model A's & a 35 5W I'm usually on the Model A forum. I'm not real familiar with Y blocks. This is the 2nd 55 T-bird we've had. The last one we traded to the builder for partial pymt. on our house 35 yrs. ago. I traded a 57 Chev. 210 for this one in 1998. This T-bird had been in a storage unit for several yrs. I noticed a push rod attached to the hood release shaft under the hood. When I got it running it only ran on 7 cyl. I pulled the rocker cover on the pass. side & found an ex. valve rocker arm not moving. Seems that valve had stuck & the previous owner tried to start it which bent the push rod & broke the lifter which scored the cam lobe. I had the eng. & ****** rebuilt but put the T-bird on the rear burner for several yrs. while I restored two other cars. I need to get it on the road before my wife is too old to get in it (she's 68). I'm not doing a complete resto. just a paint, uphol. & chrome. Thanks again for your help. Perry, Snohomish Wa.
 
If the picture in your avitar is an indication of your work, that Y block is in very good hands. That looks like an exciting four banger.
 
Thanks Don. Yes the 29 Rdstr. was one reason why the T-bird got left behind. I usually restore cars to orig. but stepped out of the box on the 29. It has an orig. Miller O/H on a "B" motor running through a 39 ******. In 2000 I traded a restored 37 Chev. cp. for a 35 Ford 5W. I had the 37 Chevy for 28 yrs & was ready for a change. The 35 is stock but I replaced the 21 stud with a rebuilt 24 stud for better cooling. It also has hyd. brakes.
The T-bird will never be a show car but all I want is a decent driver. The body is very good with only one very small rust issue in the pass. rocker panel. Thanks again for the valve info. Perry
 
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