Water in oil rebuilt Model B engine.

I need to flush the sump ect.Really dont want to remove the sump and disturb the oil seals so thinking I might hang the engine block with sump attached (without head) from a hook and fill the sump with either diesel or kero and agitate it back and forth like a washing machine.Drain then put in 5lts 15/40 diesel oil and spin motor over with starter motor (12v) until oil pump drives oil into galleries and shell bearings and replace any contaminated oil water mix with fresh oil.

Any thoughts ?
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Methinks that should be enough, any remaining moisture will evaporate when the engine runs and gets up to operating temperature.
 
You should look for leaks as outlined above. But your engine may be just fine and your only mistake is that you did not re-torque your engine enough on the initial start. From what I have read, it is best to torque to 55 ft-lbs when cold, start the engine, run for five minutes and shut off the engine. I have also read that the studs should not be lubricated. The torque value recommended is based on these conditions. If the studs are lubricated or torqued when hot, you could be over torqueing the nuts. The next day when the engine is cold retorque to 55 ft.-lbs. I was amazed at how low the torque numbers were on the second trial. I have seen the torque values drop up to 10 ft.-lbs. You drove your car for 20 minutes, not a good thing to do! Then, retorque to 55 ft.-lbs. and start the car and run for 8-10 min. Wait till the car is cold and retorque the cylinder head nuts. I would repeat these trials retorqueing at 12, 15 20 min. etc until there is no change in the torque setting. Then driive the car normally and retorque after10-50 miles. It doesn't hurt anything to torque as often as you feel comfortable. My cars are parked over the winter period. I check the torque once in the spring before the start of the touring season. Changing the head gasket is a lot of work especially if you do not have a head removal tool. I don't have the tool that is sold by Snyders but if I have to change a head gasket again, I am getting one! I would drop the pan, wipe things down as best you can. Get the plastic threaded tools sold by Snyders to align the oil pan on the re-installation. It makes putting the pan back on so much easier. Refill with clean oil and drive the car for 10-20 miles and change the oil again. Good luck, Ed
 
To get the coolant out of the block just lay the engine first on one side and then on the other to allow the dipper tray and valve galley to fully empty into the oil pan to drain it out.
After getting the new head gasket settled in just running the engine to full temperature for a while should drive any remaining moisture out.
 
Thanks for everyone's feedback.
UPDATE :
Finally get engine and gearbox reinstalled .It fought me every inch of the way !!
Drilled and tapped and plugged the 'steam holes in the block.
Copper coated the 'Best' head gasket and torqued head down to 55.

Started motor and ran for about a minute then cooled over night , twice.Got a little movement the first re-torque then none the second time.
Checked oil ,all good .
Filled radiator with water and ran engine again for 10 min and oil was white with water again ,some froth and spittle come out of filler tube.
Let motor run at fast idol till operating temp was reached then added block seal to radiator.
After about 15min I thought there was improvement so let engine run for 1/2 hour and oil was looking much better . After about 2 hours oil was like new.
Switched off engine and noted water level in radiator and called it a night.
Next day water level in radiator was same.So block sealer saved the day.Went for short drive and noted much improved power, acceleration.

Had some very dark thoughts through this process and used a lot words I wont repeat :D.
Thanks for everyone's input it means a lot.
 
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Glad you got a temporary fix with the block sealer. It could last quite a while and if it starts leaking again then you could use the block sealer again. In the meantime I would look around for a replacement block. Depending on your usage and finances I would consider a Burtz block.
 
headonz said:
Started motor and ran for about a minute then cooled over night , twice.Got a little movement the first re-torque then none the second time.
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A minute is not long enough, you should let it run 10 or 15 minutes, until it's up to operating temperature.
 
headonz said:
For the life of me I could not get the engine to separate from the gearbox . So I took the whole thing down to Tony.He is going to make a new slightly oversize replacement valve guide that will press fit back in and block off the 'whole' that is right in the shoulder recess where the guide shoulder contacts the block.He gave me the block/crack sealer they use ,to run in the cooling system when I get it started again.

I need to flush the sump ect.Really dont want to remove the sump and disturb the oil seals so thinking I might hang the engine block with sump attached (without head) from a hook and fill the sump with either diesel or kero and agitate it back and forth like a washing machine.Drain then put in 5lts 15/40 diesel oil and spin motor over with starter motor (12v) until oil pump drives oil into galleries and shell bearings and replace any contaminated oil water mix with fresh oil.


Any thoughts ?
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For this repair, it's essential that the valve guide hole be perfectly round. You might check with your rebuilder to see if he's going to bore or hone the hole. In any event, you are going to pull the engine and possibly do machining on it. I would disassemble it completely, clean it up (including the metal from the machining) and then reassemble. You are going that far, why half-*** the rest?


More importantly, ask your rebuilder if he's going to continue to warranty the engine if you don't pull it completely down and flush everything.
 
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