Tour was so so.......

Vanspeed

Vanspeed

Well-known member
Went and visited an old friend today, Roy Montgomery. Needed to get some parts for the new tudor and he is Michigan's best bet. I live in Waterford and Lapeer where Roy lives is about a 35 mile run, mostly 55 mph. Car ran great all the way there. Ran like crap all the way back. No power, lots of gas needed to move. 1 legged her home and found the points not opening hardly at all. I adjusted the points and re-timed her and she is running good again. Should I replace the points? The fiber square on it that rubs against the distribtor shaft is almost gone. I am adjusted all the way out on the points and they are at about .020 right now. Replace the points and give her a tuneup (cap, rotar, plugs, etc?) and see where I'm at?
 
Do you regularly put lube on the distributor cam? I try to put a little dab on every month or so, and mine has 7,000 miles with very little wear. I have heard that the rub blocks tend to wear initially, then settle down and last longer....if lubed properly.
 
I knew an old timer that would put a dab of super glue on the end of the points rubbing block, and vaseline on the distributor cam. Said they would last forever.

I got tired of my points always closing up on me and went to elec. ignition. People say they don't like the elec. ignition, but I've not had to mess with the distributor in over 8 years, other than to oil the shaft or check timing when pulling the head, etc...
 
if the distributor cam has become worn and grooved due to lack of being routinely lubed it will tear up and wear down the rubbing block on the points regardless if it is new or properly glazed. Best to replace it with a new one. Most of the better suppliers, such as Bratton's, carry a good quality cam made to the "B" configuration that provides a little longer dwell.

Tom Endy
 
to answer you question, if the rubbing block is worn that much, definately replace the points, it sure would be nice if there was an oiling wick for the dist cam like the v/8;s
 
I started it yesterday and noticed it doesn't start as easily as it used too. I will buy new points for it and a cap and rotor. Should I switch over to the modern points lower plate?
 
i dont think you need to switch, your problem started i think because there was no lubricant on the dist cam to lube the rubbing block on the points, make sure you lube the cam and you wont have that problem
 
Another strange thing was how quickly it changed how the car ran. It was running rough but still making power when I stopped at a friends house. When I left, it was running really bad and making no power at all. How did it change so fast? Also, with my points hardly opening, did I hurt the coil?
 
I would not worry about hurting the coil, it doesn't care how long the dwell is. It just releases the built up spark it has and waits for more juice.
 
Ok, I am going to buy new points, a condesner and cam lobe from snyders in case mine is worn down. Going to have to re-time the engine when I am done and I was wondering how you know if the # 1 piston is on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke when I line up the pin?? All I have read do not mention anything about this.
 
Vanspeed said:
Ok, I am going to buy new points, a condesner and cam lobe from snyders in case mine is worn down. Going to have to re-time the engine when I am done and I was wondering how you know if the # 1 piston is on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke when I line up the pin?? All I have read do not mention anything about this.
Click to expand...

The timing pin only finds the detent every other crankshaft revolution, so if it's in the detent, then it's in the #1 firing position.
 
Thanks Tom, that is what I thought so thanks for confirming that. I hope this fixes my little problem.
 
to help you find tdc on #1 pull number i plug and turn engine over with your thumb over the hole, you will feel the compression when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke
 
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