torque for cyliner head

johnbuckley

johnbuckley

Well-known member
What torque should be used on head bolts? I've seen 55 ft lbs mentioned. Is this with a dry thread or a lubricated thread? Is this a safe figure if I'm reusing the existing studs? (I'm sure that if I attempt to remove the existing ones some will fracture and hence complicate this week end's relatively simplee project of replacing the head gasket)
 
If the original studs don't have rust pits I'd reuse them. Since I installed an "as is" well used engine in my 28 about 4 years ago I haven't touched it and never had the head off nor checked the torque when I installed the engine. After a trip last Saturday I thought I'd give the head nuts a check, so I grabbed the original wrench from the tool kit and gave each nut a tug. I was surprized to find a few in the back and the two on the water outlet needed to be tightened. I didn't use a torque wrench, but just gave them what I thought felt like 55 lbs.

55 lbs is for clean dry threads. Be sure to back off the nut then tighten to 55. You'll have to recheck this a few times after installing a new gasket.

Did you also install a high compression head? If so, most of them call for 65 lbs.
 
Since we're on the subject, what's the trick with the match under the gooseneck again? I can't find it. Also does anyone use washers on std. head or is that just for HC heads?
Thanks,
Pete
 
In my opinion, I would use a thin gasket made of the black/asbestos type composition, say.....015" thick, or no gasket at all. Make sure the surfaces of the water outlet of the head and adapter are perfectly flat. Lapped on a surface plate is best. When I say no gasket, perfectly flat surfaces is imperative, then use either Permatex (non-hardening) or Loctite Form-a-Gasket.
 
Peter J said:
Since we're on the subject, what's the trick with the match under the gooseneck again? I can't find it. Also does anyone use washers on std. head or is that just for HC heads?
Thanks,
Pete
Click to expand...

Some people put a paper match on the OUTSIDE edge of the studs and on top of the gasket. This way it's a bit thicker on the outside of the studs and less likely to crack the mounting ears.

Any aluminum head should have washers under the nuts, but I haven't heard of any on the cast iron heads for Model A's.
 
Just installed my head today. Old studs but I did buy new nuts and cleaned out the treads. Old nuts looked suspect. Used a paper gasket on the gooseneck (no match)and a dab of permatex on it. All snugged down to 35-45-55 in succession without a problem. Tomorrow I put on the radiator and light it off!
 
Peter J said:
Just installed my head today. Old studs but I did buy new nuts and cleaned out the treads. Old nuts looked suspect. Used a paper gasket on the gooseneck (no match)and a dab of permatex on it. All snugged down to 35-45-55 in succession without a problem. Tomorrow I put on the radiator and light it off!
Click to expand...

Peter, your dancing with danger. I installed a goosneck just like you did. It took a few weeks and several runs to break. I was pretty cocky about accomplishing a safe install. It broke after a run in and after several hours of sitting. Went in the garage to find a flood on the floor.
 
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