Sparton GL-6 wiring ?

ScubaChief60

ScubaChief60

Senior Member
I am restoring a 1935 Model 48 as stock 6V positive ground. My question is where are the wire connections made to the horn motor under the dome cover? (Picture of horn motor posted and 1935 wiring diagram). I have tried several combinations with no luck. Also, does anyone know the points gap setting? A third question - I have a Sparton CL-4 and a Sparton CL-6 horn... and I assume these be used together?
 

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In your first photo, the wires attach, via 'bullet terminals' into the two metal thingees as situated at 6 o'clock and 7 o'clock
 
Sparton used the two sided terminal block for a long time. Even the Modal A horns have that type of terminal block inside the cover. It just has spring clips on each side to clamp the male bullet terminals into. Polarity is likely not an issue. It should vibrate connected either way.
 
Do you mean backing out the two screws and fastening one on each as highlighted in the 'EarlyFordHorn_v2'?
 

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NO,NO,NO not under the screws that you have indicated but at the bottom at 6 oclock. There is two flat metal loops. One points left and the other points right. Push the brass bullet terminal on your wire ends into these loops. There is also a fair chance that the long black condenser is no longer any good. You can fit in a modern condenser which is rated at .2 microfarads and 400 volts. The condenser stops the arching across the contacts and makes a big difference to the horn operation. I will get back to you on the contact setting but I think it s about 20 thou. Regards, Kevin.
 
The CL4 horn was for the 1933 and 1934 Ford cars. The CL6 horn was for the 1936 Ford cars. Deluxe cars had twin horns, a low tone and a high tone. Standard cars had one horn which was an intermediate tone. It is difficult to identify a low or high tone horn but testing is one way to do it. The difference between high and low tone is the thickness of the diaphragms. Over many years horns get mixed up and swapped around on cars so who knows what is on any particular car. To test horns you must have a very good battery, fully charged at 6.4 volts. HOPEFULLY YOU HAVE NOT TRIED TO ALTER ANY ADJUSTMENTS. The points dont have an exact setting but it is about 1/16 of an inch when the armature (the oblong laminated flat plate) is pushed down. With an air gap under the pushed down armature of 28 thou using your feeler gauge. This can all be a little tricky. The points adjustment screw can be adjusted a little up or down to fine tune the tone. The points can be refaced with a points file and hopefully they are not badly burnt or pitted. Spare parts for these horns were once available but not now. Regards, Kevin.
 
Kevin, You have been very helpful. The horns now work fine. Helps to know where to connect the wires huh? For anyone struggling I have posted one more photo showing what worked. Thanks all!
 

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Turns out all of the suggestions were correct but they were just not making sense to me. Guess i'm more visual. Thanks all!!!
 
Turns out I have one other discovery that may help someone down the line... The points I was able to adjust with trial and error. I bridged the gap at the points with a needle tool while the horn was powered up... and then adjusted the points in this manner so that the horn sounded immediately after power was supplied and I found a bit of tone adjustment here too by doing so.
 
The replacement wire harness is a 2 wire with a yellow wire and a blue with yellow stripe. Does it matter which wire connects where?
 
******** circuits shouldn't be polarity sensitive. If it doesn't work as connected then swap the leads and try again. It won't hurt anything. If the ******** won't work then the cifcuit has an internal problem. Such as bad points or an open wire. They can have a cracked or broken diaphragm too.
 
That being the case, shouldn't there be complete isolation between the 2 connections, or at least some type of resistance?
 
This should be resistance through the ******** coil but that may be due to a points problem. The circuit has to be completed to read all the way thought it.

The ******** oscillates due to the points on one end of the armature. The magnet pulls the armature which opens the points to stop the magnetic field that allows return to the closed point condition, then it starts the cycle all over again. They oscillate pretty fast and that's what gets the diaphragm to make the noise. The adjustment for most ******** coils it to set the amount of current draw depending on how far it pulls the armature. The other adjustment is the core to armature air gap. Most ******** type horns draw a fair amount of amperage. This is why they use a horn relay in most but not all cases.
 
You wouldn't happen to have a schematic of just the horn circuit so I have a better understanding how this one works.
 
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