garrisonm89@yahoo.com
BANNED
The following instructions seem very well written and following them seems ok until you consider what I'm running into.
I cranked the engine until the number 1 piston (I'm assuming the #1 piston is the cylinder/piston closest to the radiator). I turned the switch to battery and the #1 coil started to immediately buzz. I advanced the spark lever to full advance and the coil continued to buzz through the entire travel of the spark lever.
Please understand, this vehicle is a new purchase for me and I've been driving it every chance I get. But every time I talk to anyone with Model T knowledge I'm told the spark is too retarded and needs to be adjusted. I assumed this process involved advancing the spark lever until the buzzing of the #1 coil stopped and then after removing the adjusting rod from the commutator position the lever all the way to the top of the quadrant. Then adjust the lever to fit the advance so the buzzing will be heard when the lever is all the way up then immediately stop when the lever is advanced on the quadrant. So my question is this:
Is my engine timing so retarded I need to reposition the commutator to achieve proper timing? Could it be one cog off on the timing gear? My engine has been overheating since I bought the car and yesterday I broke one of the seams on my radiator trying to cool the engine. With the engine running, I poured cold water into the radiator when it overheated. I didn't realize how low the hot water was in the radiator and when the water came almost to the top of the tubes in the radiator it was boiling. I immediately stopped the engine and let it cool down before starting it again and topping off the radiator with more water. I drove the car two miles to my shop and upon inspection of the radiator realized that the seam at the bottom of the top tank had opened up.
Could this extensive overheating have been caused by the timing being so retarded while driving the vehicle?
Any answers to my questions would be helpful. And any instructions describing how I get this car properly timed would make me forever grateful.
"Timing
This is my approach: With the spark lever in about the second notch on the quadrant, I remove the #1 spark plug, bring the #1 piston around to Top-dead-center on compression stroke using a piece of coat hanger wire or a long screwdriver to monitor the progression of the piston. I continue to rotate the motor until this “probe” just barely indicates that the piston is past TDC. I then turn the ignition on BATTERY and, with the timer disconnected from the pull rod, rotate the timer towards the fan belt until the #1 coil buzzes. I then shut off the ignition, and bend the timer pull rod to reach and fit into the timer arm. I then advance the spark, then fully retard it, and return to the second notch on the quadrant. I turn the key to BATTERY and see if the exercise repeats itself. The quadrant setting can be modified to the tastes of the individual owner.
If your magneto is good, advancing the spark lever another 4 to 6 notches and hand cranking on MAG should start the car. MAG starting always requires a little more advance on the spark lever than starting on BAT, but has one big advantage. I’ve never had a car kick back when starting on MAG."
I cranked the engine until the number 1 piston (I'm assuming the #1 piston is the cylinder/piston closest to the radiator). I turned the switch to battery and the #1 coil started to immediately buzz. I advanced the spark lever to full advance and the coil continued to buzz through the entire travel of the spark lever.
Please understand, this vehicle is a new purchase for me and I've been driving it every chance I get. But every time I talk to anyone with Model T knowledge I'm told the spark is too retarded and needs to be adjusted. I assumed this process involved advancing the spark lever until the buzzing of the #1 coil stopped and then after removing the adjusting rod from the commutator position the lever all the way to the top of the quadrant. Then adjust the lever to fit the advance so the buzzing will be heard when the lever is all the way up then immediately stop when the lever is advanced on the quadrant. So my question is this:
Is my engine timing so retarded I need to reposition the commutator to achieve proper timing? Could it be one cog off on the timing gear? My engine has been overheating since I bought the car and yesterday I broke one of the seams on my radiator trying to cool the engine. With the engine running, I poured cold water into the radiator when it overheated. I didn't realize how low the hot water was in the radiator and when the water came almost to the top of the tubes in the radiator it was boiling. I immediately stopped the engine and let it cool down before starting it again and topping off the radiator with more water. I drove the car two miles to my shop and upon inspection of the radiator realized that the seam at the bottom of the top tank had opened up.
Could this extensive overheating have been caused by the timing being so retarded while driving the vehicle?
Any answers to my questions would be helpful. And any instructions describing how I get this car properly timed would make me forever grateful.
"Timing
This is my approach: With the spark lever in about the second notch on the quadrant, I remove the #1 spark plug, bring the #1 piston around to Top-dead-center on compression stroke using a piece of coat hanger wire or a long screwdriver to monitor the progression of the piston. I continue to rotate the motor until this “probe” just barely indicates that the piston is past TDC. I then turn the ignition on BATTERY and, with the timer disconnected from the pull rod, rotate the timer towards the fan belt until the #1 coil buzzes. I then shut off the ignition, and bend the timer pull rod to reach and fit into the timer arm. I then advance the spark, then fully retard it, and return to the second notch on the quadrant. I turn the key to BATTERY and see if the exercise repeats itself. The quadrant setting can be modified to the tastes of the individual owner.
If your magneto is good, advancing the spark lever another 4 to 6 notches and hand cranking on MAG should start the car. MAG starting always requires a little more advance on the spark lever than starting on BAT, but has one big advantage. I’ve never had a car kick back when starting on MAG."
