Rust inside engine block

busmania

busmania

Well-known member
My engine has 1000 miles or so on it and I took it out to address some things (not engine related) before getting my interior done. It seems as though the inside of the block is very rusty. I flushed the block and flushed and flushed and flushed and flushed and flushed some more before building it. In the 1000 miles I’ve probably drained the radiator for various reasons 3-4 times. Mostly running 50/50 antifreeze but I did run straight water for probably 3-400 of the miles as I was diagnosing an overheating issue.

Anyway, it seems as though the radiator fluid is dirtier than it should be for an engine of this age and I’m seeing a ton of rust in my radiator outlets. But, what really got me curious is the tube between the fuel pump that goes under the intake/breather. I sandblasted this and figured since it was in oil it didn’t need to be painted. BoyI must’ve been wrong. This thing is so rusty after 1000 miles. Thoughts?

Stats. 40 Ford, aluminum heads but with graphite gaskets. Aluminum radiator that I installed 500 miles ago (the new drake radiator caused overheating but even when I replaced the radiator before I went aluminum it seems the fluid was too dirty too fast).

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What is your use— when you drive how far, are you using thermostats — are you getting the oil up to temperature long enough to boil out any moisture—- is it run up to temperature and driven at temperature every time it is started?
 
I wouldn’t say it gets up to full temp every time but most of the time I make a point to make sure it gets up to temp. I typically drive 7-15 miles just cruising for fun. It has thermostats.
 
That's a good point Kurt makes. I live 12 miles from the nearest town so when I start my engine I am most likely going 24 miles up and down hills. My mom lived 1/2 mile from her work (in cold New England) and rarely went anywhere else.. Zero freeways. I have a DD with 200k and factory oil pressure and compression. Her Dodge neon was toast at 30k (and 12 years). You gotta get um up to temp. Exhaust? Mine original, mom's had 3 complete exhausts.
 
When you first built your motor , did you use coat hangers or something like it to get way down in the bottom of the block ? I found so much debris way down , even after many flushing cycles . I even used the pressure washer. Nothing got to the bottom crusty debris until I used a coat hangers or something ( or something flexible but still strong enough) to get to the bottom.
The rusty internal piece could be from the time you had a head gasket issue.
 
One of the guys here , cas3? used an old parking brake cable with it's sheath. He chucked the inner cable in a drill and cleaned those hard to reach coolant passages. The cable end frayed like a cat o' nine tails flogging out the rust.
 
GB SISSON said:
One of the guys here , cas3? used an old parking brake cable with it's sheath. He chucked the inner cable in a drill and cleaned those hard to reach coolant passages. The cable end frayed like a cat o' nine tails flogging out the rust.
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Frayed cable, long bladed screw driver, brass gun barrel brushes, etc. all get the job done. Issue is the heads needs to come off to do this.
 
You might also consider putting a PCV style system in it - to enhance the airflow through the engine.

Bottom line is that you're seeing a lot of condensation in the valley area - due to the engine/oil not getting hot enough to cook the water/vapor out of the crankcase and oil.

A much better breather system will really help. The stock "road draft" system prior to 1949 is really poor as it relates to the above. They improved it in 1949, but even that system isn't the best. A positive crankcase breathing system is a more modern and much better setup . . . there are a lot of posts on here on different methods to create one.

It kind of comes down to having the right parts for where/how you mount the PCV valve and what aesthetics you're interested in (what do you want folks to see!).

Make sure you pay attention to what PCV you're using and the correct orientation for it to work! This is very important in that there are multiple types of PCVs that folks have used - with specific part numbers for different mounting methods.
 
Thanks yall. Can I eliminate that rusty tube? I will drive it longer and more but again I feel like I get it up to a good boiling temp most trips. I guess I’ll have to explain to my wife while I’m gone on cruises even longer now. lol, good problem to have!

I’ve thought about going pvc and electric fuel pump too.
 
Somehow, I don't think driving it more is a very good answer. Here's another thought. What do you have for a crankcase ventilation system now? The early and late (8BA series) engines ventilate the engines indifferent ways and are incompatible as they flow through the engine in opposite directions. If you have mixed and matched the early and late ventilation systems (fuel pump stand, oil fill, and road draft tube) you have found your problem.

The best solution is a well designed PCV system. There are some examples of how to accomplish this on this forum.
 
busmania said:
Thanks yall. Can I eliminate that rusty tube? I will drive it longer and more but again I feel like I get it up to a good boiling temp most trips. I guess I’ll have to explain to my wife while I’m gone on cruises even longer now. lol, good problem to have!

I’ve thought about going pvc and electric fuel pump too.
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I would not eliminate it. It's part of the engine's breather system. A new one is easily found since they came in every 59AB and early (I believe) engine. What that are actually called, I don't know but others should be able to help with that.
 
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