Rear brake woes

I noticed you said you turned the adjuster (adjusting wedge) counter-clockwise to its stop. This does not assure the service brake shoes are fully retracted. Once you hit the stop, you need to turn it back slightly clockwise until you feel the adjusting shafts "click once" so that they are "seated" in the low spots on the adjusting wedge. This is especially true with newly lined brake shoes.

I'm not negating the possibility that the position of the cam is reversed, but the possibility of this is slim if the rebuilder sent you back the backing plates fully assembled. (If this were the case, they might have had an issue with properly centering the brake shoes). On the other hand, if the shoes are not properly retracted, the problem you have is VERY possible. Good Luck in your endeavors.
 
First of all, let me say how much I appreciate the folks who've taken the time to try to help me with my problem. But I'm still stumped. I tried turning the adjusting wedge back to make sure it wasn't caught on one of the ridges, but that didn't make any difference.
The space between the brake shoes and the edge of the backing plate is about 3/4 of an inch all the way around, so it appears that the shoes are centered. When the lever is pulled forward, the shoes are closer together (further retracted) than they are when the lever is positioned toward the rear (pointed the way it should go). The rollers are seated fully on the cam, not riding up on one of the ridges. I can't find anything else to figure out what's wrong.


Please let me know if you have any other suggestions.
 
Until recently, one of the rear axles on my car had a worn axle key way. Sometimes when I attempted to reinstall the hub and drum, the key would slide toward the backing plate and prevent the hub and drum from going all the way on. The key way is supposed to be a snug fit and not allow the key to do this.

You might try removing the axle key and test fit the hub and drum to see if it will go on all the way. The bevel at the end of the key goes face down to the axle and at the backing plate end of the key way.
 
coyledad46

I tried to PM you, but you are not set-up to do them.
I will; try to help you if you would like.
Call me at 714-292-8660

Randy Gross
 
Good thought on the keyway preventing the drum from going on fully, but it sounds like the shoes are still operating backwards. Pull the arm and they retract and he can get the drum on, then can not move the arm back upright ?
A great offer from one of the best brake guys out there, I would call Randy and see if he might be able to help straighten things out :)
 
Not sure if this is the best place to post this inquiry, but it relates to rear brake woes. I've had the rear brake shoes refurbished (not replaced) and replaced the prior the bonded lining to now woven brake linings. Does this automatically trigger the need to turn the drums? I have installed, realized I installed incorrectly, and reinstalled many of the rear brake parts including springs, etc. and believe I have it all correct. (learned a lot with all the mistakes, actually, but wasn't initially fun). However, when I attempt to test the hub fit - before buttoning everything down - it is either a very tight fit or not a good fit at all.

I'm curious, should the drum easily fit over the woven linings? I believe the rear right can fit over, though snug, but I can't even get the rear left to fit over the lip. Is this normal when going from bonded to woven lining?

Thanks for any help!
 
No. Because it is the same, original shoe (just cleaned/painted) I didn’t think that was necessary. Same drums too.
 
I recently encountered a wallowed-out key in the left rear axle because someone had been running the hub loose on the axle to prevent if from going in too far and rubbing against the backing plate. BRILLIANT and so typical of the "repairs" I run across! There was a 0.013" gap alongside the key (see photo with feeler gauge), which doesn't sound like much, but it's enough to cause a loose key. That key is supposed to fit in the groove very tightly. Neither the original nor a repo key stayed in the groove. The hub would bind up when attempting to install it because the key kept coming out of its groove in the axle.
To narrow the groove, I supported the axle end over a floor jack with a body dolly between them. Then with a heavy hammer I beat on the edges of the groove along its length until they closed in enough to keep the key tight. It worked! The new key fit into the groove with light tapping and the brake drum slipped over the axle and key. All seems good once everything was back together again and the drum turns freely now.
Marshall
 

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I just found out the issue on how to get my hub to fit: I needed to fully seat the tightening brake adjustment wedge! Now it goes on just fine. Phew.
 
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