Radiator Cap Won't fit into the grill shell

I need one like this one on my 1930 Model A but can't find one.
 

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emf said:
I have the exact same problem and I blamed it on the repro Brassworks radiator. When I called them to discuss the problem, they answered, "Do you have any idea how many changes were made to that radiator?" When parts are single-sourced, this the the result. I chucked my repro cap in the lathe and removed about 1/4" from the lip.


Frank
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Frank - The neck hole and aftermarket cap are the issue in this photo. This should not have anything to do with the radiator or the radiator neck. I just measured a Vintique cap and its .050" wall. What cap did you remove 1/4" off? Please contact us as we'd like to understand this situation better.
 
Synchro909 said:
When I bought a Brassworks radiator years ago, I thought I was getting a new, repro radiator. I didn't! What I got was a poorly done re core of an original radiator. That was in about 2014 and it has been to a radiator shop twice since to repair the poor workmanship.
At first, they tried to tell me that what I had was not one of theirs but when I supplied photos including of the Brassworks tag soldered to the under side of the top tank, I heard nothing more. Hmmmm.
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We restore radiators but the parts are the owner's and would not be sold to anyone else. I searched through your 6700+ forum posts but no luck. I looked for a Model A melbourne shipment in/around 2014 and no shipment exists. I don't know your name, only your forum persona so I am at a loss. Please email any photos as I would like to understand what you received. lee@thebrassworks.net
 
The Brassworks said:
We restore radiators but the parts are the owner's and would not be sold to anyone else. I searched through your 6700+ forum posts but no luck. I looked for a Model A melbourne shipment in/around 2014 and no shipment exists. I don't know your name, only your forum persona so I am at a loss. Please email any photos as I would like to understand what you received. lee@thebrassworks.net
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Not so! I bought this radiator from a vendor in the US as I told you in our correspondence.
A second thought here.... Maybe the vendor had some radiators repaired for resale. That would explain you having no record of one coming to Australia.
Our exchange was via PM here and when I sent you the pictures, by email.
Again, as I told you in our correspondence, I bought it from a US vendor so obviously you won't have a record of it coming to Australia.
That is the email address I used to send you the photos I mentioned in my earlier reply. You already have them. They were sent on Dec 5th 2022. You also have my email address. A response to that would be welcome.
 
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Radiator is high up against the shell as it can go. Someone must have put a shorter neck in the radiator. Couldn't find anyone with a lathe to cut my cap down so I die grindered it. Problem solved.
 

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I had this same exact problem about a month ago. An older radiator cap fit just fine but I accidentally broke part of it so had to get a brand new one. I think the new one was vintique. I ended up grinding about 1/16" or less off the bottom and now it fits fine.
 
Synchro909 said:
When I bought a Brassworks radiator years ago, I thought I was getting a new, repro radiator. I didn't! What I got was a poorly done re core of an original radiator. That was in about 2014 and it has been to a radiator shop twice since to repair the poor workmanship.
At first, they tried to tell me that what I had was not one of theirs but when I supplied photos including of the Brassworks tag soldered to the under side of the top tank, I heard nothing more. Hmmmm.
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I finally heard from Lee at Brassworks and he informed me that the problems I had with their radiator were because I use the car to tow a trailer - something about the vibrations are different. I call BS on that. After that, I decided it was not worth continuing to even speak to them.
Even back in the day, the vibrations going through the car would be different on a sealed road vs a corrugated unsealed road, vs a loaded vehicle, vs speed etc yet they survived.
 
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1939mars said:
I had this same exact problem about a month ago. An older radiator cap fit just fine but I accidentally broke part of it so had to get a brand new one. I think the new one was vintique. I ended up grinding about 1/16" or less off the bottom and now it fits fine.
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Well, there is the problem right there. :rolleyes:
 
Measure the height of the neck. I had a repo radiator on a car that the neck was not as tall as other radiators. I found a taller neck on an older radiator that the cap would fit on. I heated the old radiator with a small bottle propane torch and when the solder melted, I removed it and soldered it on my radiator.
 
Synchro909 said:
I finally heard from Lee at Brassworks and he informed me that the problems I had with their radiator were because I use the car to tow a trailer - something about the vibrations are different. I call BS on that. After that, I decided it was not worth continuing to even speak to them.
Even back in the day, the vibrations going through the car would be different on a sealed road vs a corrugated unsealed road, vs a loaded vehicle, vs speed etc yet they survived.
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Good Grief. I re-read my reply and your reply. I will try to be clearer for you. I am not in a position from 8,000 miles away to tell you the exact cause of a leak in a radiator made 9 years ago. To do so would be as you say, "BS." What I can tell you is the following; rust does not come from brass, rust will not consume brass, you have have described rivets were we do not put them and your local shop is doing work in an odd order of operations that I am not familiar with. I will not presume to speak to where drive, how you drive or Australian road maintenance. You had a problem and I am sorry it happened.

I am really really really sorry for you that you have devoted so much effort to your over 7,000 postings on this forum complaining about this radiator whenever our name comes up. It must be exhausting.

01-23-2023, 02:18 PM
Originally Posted by The Brassworks
I did not see a the pressure cap. This is an arizona model a radiator purchase. I suspect your radiator shop took advantage of you. 1. You test a radiator before working on it. Then you repair and test again. If a secondary leak is there you repair that and test again. It makes no sense that they discovered a significant leak after fixing a smaller leak. The greater leak would present itself first. 2. There is no rivet where you are describing. If they said there was, they are not being truthful.

The solder holes are consistent with ford's production. We grind and flux and flood solder and it flows through the holes and joins the metals. This is not a typical failure point but if you travel 10,000 miles towing a trailer in a model a then you are likely vibrating and this may have cause a failure in the 8+ you have had it. I am sorry we are not closer as we could have repaired it.
 
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