Pitman Arm Ball - Serious warning

Don/WI

Senior Member
A few weeks ago my son (Steve) & daughter-in-law (Pam) were involved in a near miss when the weld on the pitman arm replacement ball failed. They were on a four lane highway and drifted into the opposite lane where three cars were coming at them at 55 mph. One went around them on the left, the other two on the right. a fourth car stopped in front of them to prevent anyone else from hitting them while they pushed the "A" to the side of the road. This "A" CCPU was borrowed from a friend because Steve is in the process of restoring his '30 Town Sedan. The PU was purchased oin 1985 and no work had been done on the pitman arm since then.

They day before this incident, Steve had this PU on his hoist for lubrication and general inspection. He even commented afterward that he looked at the pitman arm because he had heard of previous failures. It looked good on the surface.

On close inspection of the failed arm it was noted that the weld was just a suface weld about as thick as a dime. There was no chamfer in the hole or on the shaft end to allow for good penetration. And there was no weld on the inside end (ball side) of the shaft. Upon inspection of the remaining three balls it was noted that these were also not welded properly. This was all corrected by having them rewelded by a certified welder.

My reason for telling this is to save anyone from having this same problem. I know this has been discussed many time before, but it is worth repeating. IF YOU DO NOT KNOW THE HISTORY OF THE STEERING BALLS ON YOUR "A", PLEASE INSPECT THEM OR HAVE THEM INSPECTED. It is easy to tell if the balls have been replaced by welding in a new ball stud. If it has, you must remove the drag-link and the tie rod to inspect the inside end of the ball stud. This stud should also be welded on the inside. if it has not been welded, take it to a certified welder to have this done. Do this for your safety and the safety of your loved ones (also for those that may be involved if a welded ball should fail).

I presented this message at our last Model "A" Club meeting. I also volunteered to help with the inspections and offered the use of my hoist for easier inspection.

I give thanks everyday that Steve and Pam are still with us. Someone was surely looking out for them that day. Don/WI
 
Good story all should know. I had my replacement ball TIG welded on by the welding instructor of the local JC. In fact he made it a class demonstration on how to do it right, with chamfers and all. No charge either, he was happy for the opportunity for a real world demonstration for the class.
 
There was an article on this recently in the national magazine. I have never been completely comfortable with the process of drilling a hole and installing a new ball and stud by welding the end. The original was a forging, and thus was all one piece. A&L Parts replaces the ball only, by machining the ball off the arm, but leaving the stud original. They then shrink fit a ball with a hole in it over that stud, then silver braze the ball to the shrunk fit stud. I have installed many of these, and so far, all have been good.
 
I have arms where the original ball was machined off leaving the stud. The new ball was pressed over the top and welded at the top only. I was a tad nervous about that and TIG welded around the base of the ball for extra strength.

Steve
 
It would be nice if the ball w/ the stud, had a taper so when it is welded it would shrink TIGHT. A guy that STUDIES a project first and THINKS about it gets my vote, KNOW your welder. Dudley
 
This is why I recommend ONLY A&L to have the steering balls replaced. He does it the strongest way, by milling the outer diameter of the worn ball and slipping on a new ball with a hole the same diameter as the original as the shaft which was just made by milling the ball outside diameter. Then he welds that ball to the shaft. Since the shaft is original one piece FORD material molded to the arm, it's much stronger than drilling a hole through the arm and welding in a ball and shaft.
 
Tom, you (as well as others who have described this method) are absolutely correct in that the way you described for replacing balls is the safest way to do it. In fact, the shop that my son works at has been doing it that way for the last 12 to 18 months. They will not do it any other way.

The purpose of my warning, however is for people that do not know how or if the steering balls have been restored properly on thier cars.

Thanks, Don/WI
 
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