Oil Pump and Rear Main

Pa Joe

Pa Joe

Senior Member
This is a follw up post when I asked about a rear main oil leak which now leads to more questions that I cant find the answers to in the Les Andrews book. Engine still in car, I dropped the oil pan and the oil pump came down with the pan. First question, how to I keep the oil pump in place while I put the pan back up? I noticed a plug on the side of the block, but it doesn't screw in far enough to set against the oil pump to hold it in place. Second question, rear main bolts, do they go all the way thru the block that I would need access to the other end of the bolts to remove the bearing cap? Next question, How long does the drain tube on the bearing cap have to be? Should the tube be below the oil level? Looks like JB weld around the tube where it meets the cap. I don't want to remove the bearing cap until I'm sure of what I'm doing. As always, I appreciate any help I can get.
 
The bolts on the rear main are allthe way thru, but you won't have to put a wrench up there as the bolts are squared off and set up against the block so they won't turn. the oil tube is about 5 inches long and should be in the oil at the end. . And the set screw on the side of the block should go in enough to keep the oil pump in.
 
The plug in the side of the block is pipe thread and is just a plug. Use a wood dowel to hold the pump in place.
Drain pipe, the pipe is ether soldered or welded (just a quick tap with the stinger) to keep from turning. JB weld would work fine. If the tube is screwed in to far it will block the drain. The 32's had a cutout to prevent that.
If you take the main out, remember to put sealer between the everything, including any loose shims. The red Permatex seems to do a good job.
When you replace the pan gasket we use a few studs with a screw driver slots cut in them and paper clips. We do use a bit of silicon where the pan and rear cork meet at the rear.
If you are using the old style rear seal and the rear main thrust is loose and can be removed, you might try putting a little sealer on that too.
 
To add,when you replace the main cap,make sure the shims are pushed in tight to the crank.If they are out any amount it creates a passage for the oil to pump out the rear.I know it may sound like a little bit of work but it is important to take the little freeze plug out of the main cap and make sure the drain tube does not protrude into the gravity passage.If the tube sticks in there even a little it makes an obstruction that backs up the oil enough to run out the rear instead of the front.I got a rebabitted block back a few years ago with the tube replaced and tacked in.It had a new plug in it,and they said they had carved out the protruding piece.The engine was a gusher,and when I popped out that cap plug the tube covered half the passageway.I drilled it,washed it,and it was fine until their babitt fell apart.
 
Don't screw the plug in to try to hold the pump. It is pipe thread and not made to go in that far. Use the tool made for it or use a wooded dowel to hold it. The tool only cost's about 3 dollars or you can make one. Bill
 
The vendors have the oil pump tool to hold the pump in place. Worth much much more than it costs.
 
This is a pic of the tool. Bill OilPan tool.jpg
 
I don't suggest using any kind of sealer between the cap and block. Sealers have a tendency to press out in directions that you can't control. If the sealer squeezes out and into the wells at the side of the bearing it can cause catastrophic failure of the rear bearing. However, if you don't care or have plenty of money to replace the mains, that's the thing to do. I don't say it WILL happen but, it COULD happen.
 
When I was helping a friend reshim the rear main, I didn't have my oil pump holder tool along. A quick easy solution was to tie a piece of string into a one foot loop. Hold the pump in place then slip the string around the upper part of the casting and either hold it snug with a bungee cord or have the friend hold it tight until you get the pan into place and start a couple bolts. Cut the string and remove it before the gasket starts to get tight.
 
Just a thank you note. thats whats great about this site, you can get answers to questions that you cant find in any book. Joe
 
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