new style brake question

FRANK PKNY

Well-known member
I just installed the new style lined two piece brakes on my 1916 T . My question is at what point with the brake lever should the breaks be adjusted to engage. IE can I adjust them at netural [Center position] to be off and when I pull back where should they engage?. Or does it make any difference as long as they are free at the netural position?
 
Should be free at the neutral (handle vertical) position and locked when fully back. Castings are pretty rough, aren't they? Had to do alot of hand work on my set.
 
Brakes should be adjusted to; no brake at the neutral position and about 4 clicks back from there the brakes should be locked. Unless there have been changes made to the replacement shoes, you will need to do some fitting to the sides of the castings so they don't rub on the drums.
 
Charlie, Yes the castings were very rough. I used a Dremmel to clean up the round half holes. I also had to do some grinding to get the brakes to fit on the backing plates[axel ends] . I replaces the cam bushings, cams and had to use my disk sander to take down some material from the lineings. Did not over do the lineing clean up for fear of taking to much off the rivets. Installed the new style seals and added some larger washers to hold the linings in place better on the backing plates. There is not much holding them on. I put the springs on the back side of the pads to kinda hold the pads in a bit. I used the gray high strength RTV gasket maker to seal the holes for the sleeves and applied a small amount to the end of the housing to get a good seal aginst the housing and the new seal. Put in new sleeves , packed the bearings good and peened the bearing pins to tighten them up a bit. The new brakes will need to wear in a bit right now there are rather tight, [draging]. But I think they will run in after a little running. The instructions with the seals say to seal the 3/8 hole for the sleeve dimple with a freezeout plug that they supplied but I opted to use the RTV that gives me a better seal and can be removed easily.
 
Did pretty much the same thing Frank, with some variations. I C clamped the shoes to the inside of the drum. Put a spacer at the cam end (same thickness as the cam) and passed a 1/2" drill thru the 2 shoes to get them to sit on the bolt properly. Also used 2 modern brake anchor washers, the ones that went on the top anchor bolt of drum brakes, (they have "arms" on them) to retain the shoes. Drilled to fit the bolt, I mounted them on the bolts then bent the arms in slightly to hold the shoes back. Reverse mounted the springs too. Luckily for me I didn't have to shave the lining. Another "tip": a 1/8" pipe tap fits into the bearing grease cups without any drilling. It allows you to install 1/8" straight zerk (grease gun) fittings into the cups and you can screw the caps back on for an original look with the ease of using a gun to hit the bearings.
 
Charlie You gave me the grease cup tip and I also did that, very nice idea. Thanks
On off topic subject. My father Frank or Sal Castella had a barber shop in Toms River NJ back in the 1930's any chance you were there then?
 
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