KULTULZ
Well-known member
- AND THE SEA PARTED -
Here is some more info on Trico Electro-Vac Booster Pump -
https://www.mercuryclub.com/2017/03/period-correct-fix-for-classic-mercury-wipers/
There was a 6V and 12V offered.
New seal for PS ram.
- Thread starter rjlester
- Start date
Here is some more info on Trico Electro-Vac Booster Pump -
https://www.mercuryclub.com/2017/03/period-correct-fix-for-classic-mercury-wipers/
There was a 6V and 12V offered.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
- AGAIN, THE SEA PARTS AND THE BOY SEES THE LIGHT -
... dumba$$ ...
Had a flash. Doubt the FORD SEAL KIT would work on an aftermarket cylinder ...
... The BLUE PILLS ... Honey. where are they?
I have an update on my Power steering install. I've put about 600 miles on it the last two months and it works well, no leaks, noise is barely detectable. Originally I eyeballed the alignment and it steered ok, but it did have a bit of wander. Tires are not wearing or cupping.
I've suspected there is play in the control valve, but I was hoping the alignment would fix the wander on the highway issue. Has roughly an inch of play in the steering on the highway.
A few days ago I did the alignment myself at my buddies shop on a modern alignment system, with his help. I got it right on spec wise, and the mechanic there was happy with the readings the computer showed.
It's marginally better, still wanders on the highway. Used to be so "straight down the road", now you are constantly making adjustments depending on crosswinds, road crown, tire grooves, etc.
That being said, my control valve is 70 years old, has about 50k miles on it and all I did was replace the seals after cleaning it up. I don't want to spend 600 bucks on a new control valve, but I suspect this is where the play is. I was in a hurry to get out of my buddies shop as he was doing me a favor (I worked there as a mechanic a couple years ago) and I didn't want to tie up that hoist. So, I would like to get under my car at home and have someone turn the wheel back and forth and see where the play is.
I did have the engine running the whole time I was doing the alignment in order to load up the control valve.
How much play, if any should be in the ball stud? I would think none if it's not worn out? Where can I get a new ball stud and the brass insert (not sure what it should be called)? I tried readjusting the nut on the end by trying only 1/8 turn out instead of 1/4 but that didn't help.
I've suspected there is play in the control valve, but I was hoping the alignment would fix the wander on the highway issue. Has roughly an inch of play in the steering on the highway.
A few days ago I did the alignment myself at my buddies shop on a modern alignment system, with his help. I got it right on spec wise, and the mechanic there was happy with the readings the computer showed.
It's marginally better, still wanders on the highway. Used to be so "straight down the road", now you are constantly making adjustments depending on crosswinds, road crown, tire grooves, etc.
That being said, my control valve is 70 years old, has about 50k miles on it and all I did was replace the seals after cleaning it up. I don't want to spend 600 bucks on a new control valve, but I suspect this is where the play is. I was in a hurry to get out of my buddies shop as he was doing me a favor (I worked there as a mechanic a couple years ago) and I didn't want to tie up that hoist. So, I would like to get under my car at home and have someone turn the wheel back and forth and see where the play is.
I did have the engine running the whole time I was doing the alignment in order to load up the control valve.
How much play, if any should be in the ball stud? I would think none if it's not worn out? Where can I get a new ball stud and the brass insert (not sure what it should be called)? I tried readjusting the nut on the end by trying only 1/8 turn out instead of 1/4 but that didn't help.
KULTULZ
Well-known member
Well ... (deep subject) ... 
You do have a correct SHOP MANUAL, correct? It will have a DIAGNOSTIC SEQUENCE to follow. The ball stud allows the car to go manual steer in the straight-away position (need to have the wheel centered and toe correct - no slop in box and/or linkages).
Power assist does not happen until the ball stud makes contact with either cup (if not worn and adjusted correctly).
Are you using bias-ply or residuals? Residuals usually require more caster and toe adjustment.
The NOS PN for the kit is B3AZ 3A533-A (or superseded PN B3A 3312-A). You also need a BOOT KIT on the cylinder rod to protect the cylinder seals.
IMO ... ... when one is trying to bring one of these back to life is to remove all and rebuild on the bench incl all bushing kits. Then everything should be functional for a long time.
You do have a correct SHOP MANUAL, correct? It will have a DIAGNOSTIC SEQUENCE to follow. The ball stud allows the car to go manual steer in the straight-away position (need to have the wheel centered and toe correct - no slop in box and/or linkages).
Power assist does not happen until the ball stud makes contact with either cup (if not worn and adjusted correctly).
Are you using bias-ply or residuals? Residuals usually require more caster and toe adjustment.
The NOS PN for the kit is B3AZ 3A533-A (or superseded PN B3A 3312-A). You also need a BOOT KIT on the cylinder rod to protect the cylinder seals.
IMO ...
... when one is trying to bring one of these back to life is to remove all and rebuild on the bench incl all bushing kits. Then everything should be functional for a long time.Attachments
Thank you! That was the part number I needed so I searched it up and ordered it from C&G, it was their last one in stock.
I will be going through the manual to confirm diagnosis, although I'm positive it is the control valve. When that car had manual steering, you could hold the wheel and it would not wander. Now it wanders and the tie rod ends are tight so what else could it be? I didn't even take the ball stud out, I just cleaned it all, changed the seals and installed the control valve. Live and learn.
As for the tires/alignment, I'm running radials. So when you mentioned more caster and toe, how much more?
I will be going through the manual to confirm diagnosis, although I'm positive it is the control valve. When that car had manual steering, you could hold the wheel and it would not wander. Now it wanders and the tie rod ends are tight so what else could it be? I didn't even take the ball stud out, I just cleaned it all, changed the seals and installed the control valve. Live and learn.
As for the tires/alignment, I'm running radials. So when you mentioned more caster and toe, how much more?
KULTULZ
Well-known member
See if either of these help explain -
- https://forums.aaca.org/topic/169822-wheel-alignment-specs-for-radials/
- https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/sucp-1004-muscle-car-front-end-alignment-basics/
If I come across anything more definitive I will post it.
Every car is different and residuals were not around then.
- https://forums.aaca.org/topic/169822-wheel-alignment-specs-for-radials/
- https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/sucp-1004-muscle-car-front-end-alignment-basics/
If I come across anything more definitive I will post it.
Every car is different and residuals were not around then.
You bet.
It was last December when I started on this journey to get power steering in my 54 Meteor. It's been about 5 months and 800 miles of driving with the car all over the road at times.
I'm happy to report that after 3 alignments (two today, took two tries as the new machine doesn't like old cars haha) and swapping the ball stud/cups/spring in the control valve recently that I'm driving straight down the road again. Only wander I get now is when there are grooves in the road, but that's pretty normal from what I can tell. I did the alignment myself at my buddies shop, almost completely without his help this time.
What a difference once the alignment is right. I did it once today, but after turning the wheel side to side for the caster check (part of the computer procedure to complete the alignment process) it showed it was towed out again so I adjusted it AGAIN. Took it for a test drive, and it was back almost where it was before with the wheel about 20 degrees off center.
Back on the hoist, hooked everything up and this time once the toe was set, I ignored the side to side caster test and went for a test drive. Wheel is STRAIGHT!!
Thanks again to all those who helped, especially Kultulz, you were always there quickly with a suggestion or prodding me to do things right the first time! lolol
I'm happy to report that after 3 alignments (two today, took two tries as the new machine doesn't like old cars haha) and swapping the ball stud/cups/spring in the control valve recently that I'm driving straight down the road again. Only wander I get now is when there are grooves in the road, but that's pretty normal from what I can tell. I did the alignment myself at my buddies shop, almost completely without his help this time.
What a difference once the alignment is right. I did it once today, but after turning the wheel side to side for the caster check (part of the computer procedure to complete the alignment process) it showed it was towed out again so I adjusted it AGAIN. Took it for a test drive, and it was back almost where it was before with the wheel about 20 degrees off center.
Back on the hoist, hooked everything up and this time once the toe was set, I ignored the side to side caster test and went for a test drive. Wheel is STRAIGHT!!
Thanks again to all those who helped, especially Kultulz, you were always there quickly with a suggestion or prodding me to do things right the first time! lolol
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