Lets talk about Y-Block vapor lock, shall we?

Yes, the wooden cloths pins wouldn't allow the steel lines to heat soak as the pins didn't heat up as fast as the steel lines.

Good call on checking the vented tank cap too!
 
I've been working on this for a few months. Flatheads were notorious for overheating apparently. I assumed it was the block soaking up heat from the exhaust passages running through the water jackets, I installed an electric inline pump near the tank that I switch on to prime the mechanical pump then shut off.

The Y-block pump location on the timing cover seems like every other Ford V8. The clear sediment bowl allows me to see the fuel flow at idle. I've had problems with hot starting. I can see the fuel boiling in the sediment bowl. But even after letting the engine cool off it was doing the same thing, so it wasn't heat related.

I removed and flushed the tank, but still had a lot of rust and gunk in the fuel line. So I think the fuel vaporizing was due to negative pressure in the suction line. I replaced the tank to pump line and it seems to have fixed it,

QOz4DsB.mp4
 
41Fordor said:
I've been working on this for a few months. Flatheads were notorious for overheating apparently. I assumed it was the block soaking up heat from the exhaust passages running through the water jackets, I installed an electric inline pump near the tank that I switch on to prime the mechanical pump then shut off.

The Y-block pump location on the timing cover seems like every other Ford V8. The clear sediment bowl allows me to see the fuel flow at idle. I've had problems with hot starting. I can see the fuel boiling in the sediment bowl. But even after letting the engine cool off it was doing the same thing, so it wasn't heat related.

I removed and flushed the tank, but still had a lot of rust and gunk in the fuel line. So I think the fuel vaporizing was due to negative pressure in the suction line. I replaced the tank to pump line and it seems to have fixed it,

QOz4DsB.mp4
Click to expand...


Could you see the fuel bubbling in the filter and the fuel level in the filter going down, as the engine got hotter?
 
My standby generator plugged up from the ethanol rotting the fuel hose. No doubt about it. The carb was full of rubber particles and a q tip in the hose looked like it was dipped in liquid rubber.
Click to expand...

Ethanol laced fuel requires special rated hose - https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-power/engine-hose/fuel-line-hose.p.4219-000000-000003.html

One rated for carburetors and the other HI-PRESSURE FI.

And just SAY NO to worm clamps. They are dangerous.

Ethanol damages cellulose fuel filter media - ZINC OXIDE is the result of ethanol fuel in a carb/fuel pump - Ethanol laced fuel draws water (hygroscopic) and further damages fuel systems - Yes, you need fuel conditioners on an ethanol laced open fuel system (No EVAP).

Also be wary of CHI-CON SLOPPY-COPY PARTS.

The easiest way out of the whole thing is with a rear mounted electric fuel pump (properly rated), either in-tank or direct gravity drop.

Today's pump gasoline is meant for an EFI CLOSED SYSTEM (EVAP) not an older carb with an open fuel tank (vented to outside air).
 
IMO :rolleyes:, it is very important to keep all old cores.

I had a friend that took a nice 57 CUSTOM and gratfed the front frame and suspension from an eighties MARK (crash job) (strut suspension) and 4.6L on it.

He took out a perfectly fine 312 and put it on the floor. I came back a few weeks later and it was gone.

"Sell it"?

"No, I junked it."
 
worm clamps are dangerous? I have been using them for at least 40 years and none of them ever bit me.
 
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