I'm Outta Touch, I'm Outta Time

UPDATE:

So I've tested some of your helpful suggestions and a problem still remains, although it is driving better than a couple weeks ago.

It seems to be getting plenty of fuel into the carb. I pulled the drain plug and got a healthy gush. I've tested the coil and got a healthy blue spark. A compression test proved even compression.

I took it for a couple loops around the neighborhood, and it is still falling in and out of good running. I got it to idle well and shift up into third without trouble on the level road. However, it will jump back into its old ways, suck air in and struggle to get back into second.

The one thing it will consistently do is struggle on hills. It does not stall or cough like it is lacking fuel, but it starts to chug like a steam engine. I live in a hilly town and prior to these problems it had no problem climbing a hill in second.

The one thing I have noticed that I do not know the right answer to is, how much play is allowed in the various distributor components? I noticed the rotor and cam have some play to them and the whole distributor itself has a little play despite the screw being tightened down.
 
The distributor shaft is supposed to have a little back and forth rotational play. That's normal. You just don't want side-to-side play, which would indicate worn shaft bushings and/or a worn shaft.
Marshall
 
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The side hold down screw is one path to ground for the distributor , if the distributor is loose and moving it could be your problem ?! Other poor paths the time adjusting rod , the flexible cable that’s probably painted . The hold down screw is a special screw that fits in a groove in the distributor
 
MotownMachine said:
I took it for a couple loops around the neighborhood, and it is still falling in and out of good running. I got it to idle well and shift up into third without trouble on the level road. However, it will jump back into its old ways, suck air in and struggle to get back into second.
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Does your engine randomly do this or does it only do this when it's warmed up?
 
Also on secondary filters (and I agree with Gary, if you need that something else is the problem, dirty gas, dirty tank, that is a band aid fix) use a fuel filter designed for 'no pressure' fuel lines, a metal encased filter don't park a plastic bodied filter next door to that hot manifold.
Unless you have your insurance paid up:)
 
Motown, I have a friend that was having the same problems. It turned out to be timing. He was way too advanced. Although way too retarded can cause problems too. We re timed his car and that solved the problem.

To time the car, first set the points to 0.020 clearance when the points are at their maximum gap.

Turn the engine to top dead center (TDC) on #1 piston by inserting the pin at the cam gear cover. The pin will drop into a depression when the #1 piston is at TDC. Verify by taking the plug out at the #1 cylinder and observing that the piston is at TDC.

Move the timing lever to one notch down from the top. Remove the distributor top, housing, and rotor, and loosen the screw for the cam. Move the cam so that the points are just opening and the rotor will point to #1 cylinder and snug up the screw. Verify this by rotating the cam counter clockwise from the rest position which is as far clockwise as the cam will go. Make sure the screw is tight and put everything back together.

When driving the car move the timing lever to where the engine is running best. Use the hand throttle to set a constant speed. Start from a slight retarded position and advance the timing one notch at a time. The engine should pick up speed and power as you advance the timing. Do this until there is no improvement and then go back one notch. Remember this position as this is where you will be driving the car most of the time. You can retard it one notch for going up a grade and advance it one notch for driving on a level road at a constant speed.

Do not use the Nu-Rex wrench (Spelling ?) except to turn the cam.
 
Big hammer said:
if the distributor is loose and moving it could be your problem ?!
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Well, I am hoping this is it. I needed to order some new parts and took a look at the new distributor screws and saw they have a little nubben on the end. Mine does not. Needless to say, one was ordered
 
1crosscut said:
Any chance of you borrowing a known good distributor and carburetor as I suggested in post #20?
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I had borrowed a carb from a friend, but I could barely get the car to start with his on. I didn't want to mess with his, so I just gave it back.

I have a good carb on my sedan that I can try when I get the opportunity
 
Yes, try the good one you have on your sedan and if that doesn't help then try the distributor that you have on your sedan assuming it runs well.
 
UPDATE:

So, I went ahead and just bought a brand-new distributor and it seems to have done the trick (mostly). I did not properly time the new distributor because the Incredible Hulk installed the cam screw, but I went ahead and threw the new guy in with the first cylinder set and most of the problems have disappeared.

The car no longer struggles on hills, it no longer misses, it's a very consistent runner, but one small problem does remain. In order to operate smoothly I am constantly having to work the GAV... making the mix increasingly rich as it speeds up

Is timing the culprit? Maybe the GAV needle is out of whack? I just redid the manifold gasket Thursday, so I doubt it's an intake leak

Thanks
 
Sounds like you are winning.
However it doesn't sound as if you are confident in your ability to set the timing correctly. I would suggest ordering one of the NuRex timing wrenches and use it to set your timing. It may not get the timing set absolutely perfect as in other methods using test lights etc... but it gets timing really, really close.
Biggest things with using the wrench and setting timing is to make sure you are at top dead center using the timing pin. If you are having trouble finding the dimple in the timing gear just use a small short phillips screwdriver in place of the timing pin.
Also make sure that the arm that extends out from the back of the distributor touches each side of the slot when you move your timing lever fully in either direction. If it doesn't that has to be set right before going forward.
Be sure that the timing lever is then fully raised to its highest position and then using the NuRex wrench set the cam on the distributor and lock it in place.
 
1crosscut said:
I would suggest ordering one of the NuRex timing wrenches and use it to set your timing. It may not get the timing set absolutely perfect as in other methods using test lights etc... but it gets timing really, really close.
Click to expand...

I do have a NuRex wrench I have been using. I retimed the old distributor twice using it, and it certainly improved it from the initial problem. Fighting the clock for a Memorial Day tour, I decided it wouldn't hurt to have a bonafide backup that I will know has been properly maintained.

I am almost certain they do not time them in the factory, though, and the fact with the new one is the cam screw is just so dang tight I could not loosen it in order to use the wrench.

I drove the car about seven miles yesterday, and it's 99% improved. The tick I had is gone, the car has its power back, but I have never had to work the GAV so much driving mine or anyone else's Model A!!

Thank you for your time in replying!
 
I am plagued by my cam turning when I tighten the screw. My workaround is to set it at 10 deg BTDC and that compensates for the turning and it is spot on at 0 deg then when I finish.

My Stipe dizzy cam must be on my spare dizzy. That cam has parallel serrations on the bottom for grip, maybe I'll swap it over.
 
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